Recently i started on a custom kit project, though there are two problems i face: What is the recommended thickness of a pla-plate if i were to use it for adding highlights to my kit and how do i do the scribing of the hexagon panel lines that usually are done in models showcased in gunpla magazines
As for the thickness, it depends on how thick you want the raised detail to be. Just keep in mind that the thicker the pla-plate is, the less easy it’ll conform to curved surfaces.
On scribing panel lines, in what shape or form, it would take me ages to type down the instructions. I suggest going to YouTube and search for Justinius Builds. He…[Read more]
Hi planning on my first MG kit. “Astray Red Frame Kai”
I have a few questions.
1. Is it advisable to apply decals/panel lining/top coat per build (head/arm/torso), or do you build all first before you apply the said things. (no plans on painting)
2. Is it advisable to use cement to hide gaps when connecting two parts?
It is advisable to do panel lining and such per build/limb. It grands you more access especially when doing top coat. I even do decals, panel lining and top coat per part (I paint the armour and frame). It helps if I do want to have a shine metallic like frame and dull weathered armour. When it comes to applying decals, this can be a…[Read more]
By Glue you meant the Tamiya Cement right or will regular Glue work(come to think of it it does look the same when it dries) Hehehe…
Yeah I was planning on painting but too scared to try it out, but I may hold the build if I muster the strength to paint the kit. but yes will post WIP-pics. I am…[Read more]
Any polystyrene glue will do. For getting rid of seam lines, the Tamiya extra thin won’t work as great as it will leave some gaps due to its capillary characteristics. There has to be access glue coming out of the two pieces.
Not to push you in any direction, but there is nothing difficult in painting. The most easy way of painting is spray…[Read more]
I recommend using super glue or acetone. With the latter you can directly use it on the ABS, but it will of course run. Mixing some “old” ABS with acetone makes a great glue for it, add more to get the consistency that is too your liking. Just make sure the container you keep it in is resistant to acetone.
Good luck and happy building!
Thx for reply. Done some tests using acetone (basically nail color remover) without the ABS filler. Just was wondered if there would be something easier to work with. Abaout that old ABS. How much is needed for that mix? Also if its mixed with ABS will i’ll be able to use it brush? Im a bit sceptical with super glue – knowing my luck it would…[Read more]
You can add as much as ABS to the mix as you like. The more you add to the mix, the thicker it gets. You can get it to a consistency of Tamiya extra thin, normal glue and even to a thinned down putty consistency. Then you can certainly use a brush to apply it. I have to recommend getting some 100% acetone, available in most hardware stores. There…[Read more]
Would anyone happen to know all of the Build Fighters and RG parts that come with magazines (Hobby Japan, Dengeki Hobby, Gundam Ace?) I’m trying to find all of them for my collection. Any relevant info is appreciated!!
Hobby Japan October 2015 (with HGCE Freedom Gundam Custom Kit) for the Freedom Ferder.
Gundam Ace September 2015 with New HG Gundam Weapon Parts (Beam Javelin & Original Weapon) and Gunpla Ace with New HG Gundam Weapon Parts (Hammer & Original Weapon) appeared in a chapter of the Build Fighters Manga.
Hobby Japan May 2015 with Wing Gundam Zero…[Read more]
Hello, im new to custom painting, i want to paint Nightingale but i’m wondering how i should start and what i’ll need to do to the paint before spraying it down.
Most people wash the runners before they start the building process. Personally I don’t. I snip the pieces of the runners, sort them by limbs, sand down the nubs and then do the washing as this gets rid of the dust from the sanding. Them I suggest getting a good plastic primer. You could do without, but for me in the past I noticed that paint…[Read more]
Do i need any kind of paint thinner for the paint, I want the model to have a darker color or something similar to a titanium finish. I know for a titanium finish the base color has to be a alclad silver and then a clear red on top.
u really only need thinner if your using an airbrush. with a spray can its just aim and shoot but with since ur using alclad paints im assuming ur using an airbrush so if u are then for alclad paints u do not need thinner since its already prethinned in the bottle. for paints like tamiya clear red and other tamiya bottles u do need thinner to thin…[Read more]
You’re welcome. Ono slight note though. The Alclad silver can react with an acrylic that is alcohol based, like the Tamiya and Mr’Hobby are. Please spray Alclad Klear Kote beforehand and let it cure for at least a day. Good luck, happy building and please show us some pictures of the finished result. Interesting sounding colour scheme!
@teetee580
On that note of clear coats, i spray that coat after the primer and then the silver? And after i finish spraying the colors, do i need a sealer or top coat?
I just don’t want to mess up on the model.
First spray the primer, then optionally a gloss black (due to the high shine, the shine of the silver “deepens”, you could first try the colours on a plastic spoon for comparison, that’s how I test colours out, how many layers and such without messing up the model),
the silver base, optional an enamel gloss clear coat (if the paint you’re using…[Read more]
Hmmmmm is it possible to put down the primer let it cure, then an alclad silver, and then spray a clear red over it. of course i’ll see how many times i want to spray the red, and then a sealer. For the black areas i was thinking of doing the primer, then the black with a sealer on top.
Are there any kinds of sealers that i should be using for a…[Read more]
If the red you’re going to spray is an enamel, it won’t be a problem. If it’s an “acrylic” by Tamiya or Mr. Hobby is strongly advise you spray down a clear enamel coat first and let it cure. Although it states Alclad II Lacquers on the bottle, most of their product aren’t lacquers at all, like the Klear Kote by them, it’s an enamel…..
sorry for not replying lots of things going on, can you explain this to me in a more basic level, or explain to me a basic way of doing this kind of paint job. A nice semi shiny/shiny red on nightingale. thank you for all your help.
I’m a big fan of the 00 Series and I was wondering if you guys knew how to check the restocking updates of Bandai because I really am watching for the 1/100 models to come back. Thanks!
At the start of every month Bandai will update this page http://bandai-hobby.net/site/schedule.html with the PDF of restocks and new releases for that month.
If you can’t speak Japanese then you can just copy the PDF’s url into Google Translate and open it up.
Unfortunately we can only see the month we’re in but it’s better than nothing 🙂