Drastic77

Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats_40
Drastic77 added new media in album Wall Posts 9 years, 1 month ago
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats_36
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats_33
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats_32
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats_28
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats_19
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 1 month ago

tats
Drastic77 posted a new activity comment 9 years, 2 months ago

thanks guys, I don’t have an airbrush in my possession, so I will have to think of something else. I am currently using rattle cans. Another question, if I want to dry brush to creating weathering, where in the painting/top coat stage do I do so and then what topcoat do I apply if any?

View Conversation
- Kuroneko replied 9 years, 2 months ago
  
  Any topcoat will do. And that’s depend on what final result you. Dull metal color, flat coat. Shiny ‘bling bling’ metal finish, gloss.
  
  If you using rattle can, you might take a look into commercial rattle can paint. If I’m not wrong, there is Chrome in a can, but best is do a resin primer first to prevent the color eating through color and into…[Read more]
Drastic77 posted an update in the group Q/A & Help Group 9 years, 2 months ago

Paint Question, What would you recommend for a shiny silver finish as seen on Gundam Astray Red Frame’s swords? Nothing I can find out there produces a finish that is almost mirror like. Please advise
- Kuroneko replied 9 years, 2 months ago
  
  That is mirror finish chrome not silver. There are many like Alcad II or if you really want that chrome, try a Japanese brand (I can’t remember the brand) or MGM chrome powder (Taiwan), only chrome powder can such effect and of course it cannot be seal with clear coat.
  
  If you are from America, this will not be a problem as there is number of…[Read more]
- jlara96 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
  
  I found that if you are careful painting chrome silver, you can get a close reflection effect on parts. Also, like Kuroneko said you can always use paint or pigment that was specifically meant for a mirror-like reflection.
- Breezy replied 9 years, 2 months ago
  
  Ive had pretty good success using alclad II chrome sprayed over a coat of gloss enamel. As far as chrome powders, I’ve heard good things about kosutte gin-san, although its a bit difficult to find.
  - Drastic77 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
    
    thanks guys, I don’t have an airbrush in my possession, so I will have to think of something else. I am currently using rattle cans. Another question, if I want to dry brush to creating weathering, where in the painting/top coat stage do I do so and then what topcoat do I apply if any?
    - Kuroneko replied 9 years, 2 months ago
      
      Any topcoat will do. And that’s depend on what final result you. Dull metal color, flat coat. Shiny ‘bling bling’ metal finish, gloss.
      
      If you using rattle can, you might take a look into commercial rattle can paint. If I’m not wrong, there is Chrome in a can, but best is do a resin primer first to prevent the color eating through color and into…[Read more]
Drastic77 posted a new activity comment 9 years, 2 months ago

thanks for the input, it seems there are not many seam lines to worry about after the armor is put on to the frame. I plan to do priming before painting and I am worried that my panel lines and some details will disappear. I have been reading about “scribing,” or carving details out lightly. What is you guys’s opinion on this?

View Conversation
Drastic77 posted a new activity comment 9 years, 2 months ago

Thanks for sharing, I appreciate the pointers. What is your opinion on pre-building before painting and peg cutting. I don’t know much about either, but I been reading around that some people do it because it helps you know where you have to build first to eliminate seam lines.

View Conversation
- masterDS64 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
  
  No idea about peg cutting, if you pre build just have the parts sit there and not be too secure, or work out how to separate said parts while in construction that won’t rip the parts…apart.
  
  I’m not an expert in this field though, but for piece trouble shooting during a build I don’t snap pieces fully in until I’m sure it’ll work, may work for…[Read more]
  - streum13 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
    
    Some people would straight build the entire kit then disassemble it and glue/putty the parts that are needed. Others will carefully study the manual and see what pieces need to be glued. I’m more of the second category. But even if I didn’t build the 3.0 I think that they won’t be any visible seamlines except maybe for the beam rifle or the…[Read more]
    - Drastic77 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
      
      thanks for the input, it seems there are not many seam lines to worry about after the armor is put on to the frame. I plan to do priming before painting and I am worried that my panel lines and some details will disappear. I have been reading about “scribing,” or carving details out lightly. What is you guys’s opinion on this?
Drastic77 posted an update in the group Q/A & Help Group 9 years, 2 months ago

Hello, after over 15 years, I have decided to try my hand at gunpla again. As a kid growing up I had built a few SD and 1/100 HG kits poorly. Extra parts, broken pieces and awful paint jobs. Lacked the resources, patience, and knowledge to do a good job. Now that I am all grown up, I was hoping to pick up the hobby again, but this time do…[Read more]
- masterDS64 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
  
  …well im a noob at painting BUT the easiest, safest way for painting is to take the parts of the sprues/runners/trees/sheets or whatever you like to call them BEFORE painting, unless you got matching paint and a brush you’ll have mis-matching nub marks, and…as I learnt the hard way gundam markers of near color are not wise…
  
  I use tamiya…[Read more]
  - Drastic77 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
    
    Thanks for sharing, I appreciate the pointers. What is your opinion on pre-building before painting and peg cutting. I don’t know much about either, but I been reading around that some people do it because it helps you know where you have to build first to eliminate seam lines.
    - masterDS64 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
      
      No idea about peg cutting, if you pre build just have the parts sit there and not be too secure, or work out how to separate said parts while in construction that won’t rip the parts…apart.
      
      I’m not an expert in this field though, but for piece trouble shooting during a build I don’t snap pieces fully in until I’m sure it’ll work, may work for…[Read more]
      
      streum13 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
      
      Some people would straight build the entire kit then disassemble it and glue/putty the parts that are needed. Others will carefully study the manual and see what pieces need to be glued. I’m more of the second category. But even if I didn’t build the 3.0 I think that they won’t be any visible seamlines except maybe for the beam rifle or the…[Read more]
      
      Drastic77 replied 9 years, 2 months ago
      
      thanks for the input, it seems there are not many seam lines to worry about after the armor is put on to the frame. I plan to do priming before painting and I am worried that my panel lines and some details will disappear. I have been reading about “scribing,” or carving details out lightly. What is you guys’s opinion on this?
Drastic77 posted an update in the group Q/A & Help Group 9 years, 2 months ago

IMG_20131219_085408
Drastic77 joined the group Q/A & Help Group 9 years, 2 months ago

Q/A & Help Group

Visit group
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 3 months ago

IMG_9761crop
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 3 months ago

IMG_9867
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 3 months ago

IMG_9689
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 3 months ago

IMG_0032
Drastic77 posted an update 9 years, 3 months ago

GHETTOFABLAB
Load More