Hi all. new here and to this layout of “forum”. have recently started getting into some Gundam etc figures but still to start my first build.
Regular customer of HLJ.
Check out my previous builds, WIP etc here http://webbynz.blogspot.co.nz/View
Here is my MG Gouf Custom so far. Planning on doing some weathered paint work on this guy, especially since he looks a little plain compared to current MGs. He awkardly says hello to the world:)
This has probably been asked/answered before and forgive my laziness for not searching 😛 but, I want to start painting my Gunpla. I am not a novice when it comes to model building or painting in general, I just have not done it in a VERY long time. Like 7 years or so.
Anyways, what brand/type of paints do most people go with or recommend? I…[Read more]
Personally, I am an advocate of Vallejo paints (sold by HLJ).
Since you have experience with acrylic paints, I would suggest Vallejo, Tamiya acrylics, or even Citadel. They key is thinning your paints. What paints you use all depends on what you have available locally. I will say that one advantage Tamiya has is that you can paint in matching…[Read more]
Well, most people use acrylics, Tamiya or Mr.Hobby. And then there are some that use enamels, for either painting the entire kit or for detailing and panel washes.
I use acrylics, lacquers and enamels (mostly for panel washes and detailing), it depends on the job at hand.
You could use a combination of all of them, just know what to put on top of…[Read more]
It’s not the easiest process. Basically you need to modify HG parts so that they fit into the RG frame, though that requires a lot of cutting and Gluing. The main tricky part is making sure that they move in the same ways as the RG did so that they don’t hit each other, which is hard because HGs are usually more chunky than RGs.
my first crack at the Real Grade line. also my 3rd painted kit, so i’m still figuring out a good workflow for building, painting and finishing. tried post-shading on this one…
Looks really nice and clean, how did you get around painting the pre molded inner frame parts? I’m thinking about using some gold leaf on my RG Strike Freedom.
thanks! just the usual primer and metallic paint. i airbrushed Testors Metalizers and some Tamiya acrylic metallics to break up the parts colors. just make sure to apply a thin coat of primer since you don’t want to make the frame too thick and stiff. also i painted the individual frame parts before putting them together. for the moving parts, i…[Read more]
damm another person who has the same problem as me lol i cant get anything else like mr color besides tamiya. Looking at urs reminds me about my troubles too. Anyways nice job with the exia can i ask wht kinda blue that is i seem to be unable to get that mixture of blue for my own kits with tamiya so its annoying lol 🙂
thank you! ahh someone who knows my pain… a price to pay for me to live in the islands where everything goes by air or sea and extremely tight regulations. anyway regarding the colors, i mixed up tamiya royal blue and sky blue as the bases to get the 2 tones of blue i used on this. and then, touches of tamiya white and tamiya blue to make them…[Read more]
Hello everyone, I have a quick question that I’m hoping can be answered. I’ve just purchased some tamiya enamel paints and was wondering what a good cheap thinner would be. The tamiya branded enamel thinner is sorta expensive for the size of the containers so can I use anything else for my airbrush?
tamiya enamel paints are generally not used for airbrushing theyre usually used for panel line wash u can use him but enamels take FOREVER to dry (some brands may take even up to 2 weeks to dry) if u really wanna do it with enamels use lighter fluid or something of that content it should work
Thanks for the reply! I live in a zero humidity high heat area so drying time shouldn’t be that bad. I’ve used Testors enamel before but i don’t really like the colors. I’ve heard I might be able to use alchohol or mineral spirits too but I’m not positive
Hello Merc.
You shouldn’t use alcohol for enamels. This works great for the Tamiya acrylics though.
Lighter fluid or mineral spirits will work fine for thinning enamels.
The more thin the paint is, the quicker it actually dries. So for enamels to dry rather quick, use multiple thin coats.
Even though you live in a zero humidity high heat area…[Read more]
My worst case of enamel paint curing took around 40 days (at least after those days it wasnt tacky anymore). And it was all because i was to lazy to go to store and get red acrylic paint, and noticed i had the right red in enamel….
A pearl paint and mixing pearl powder into the paint works best for me. The lather depends on which pearl powder you use.
The method of mixing pearl powder to a gloss clear coat is more or less a last resort option.
I hope this answers your question.
Good luck and happy building
This is my first try to do painting on a kit so its definitely not in the same league as some of the awesome Gunpla I have seen in this group. Model is SDBF Star Winning…
What do you mean by you couldn’t do a clean job? Are you applying the paint directly with markers, or are you bleeding them into a tray and then brushing it on?
Great! A new member to the hobby! Hope you have lots of fun and good luck building that awesome kit.
Should you need any advice or help, please feel free to write us in the Q/A&Help section on this blog.
Good luck and happy building!