• dscrimager posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 1 year, 1 month ago

    I see a lot of compressor questions. I’ve used airbrushes from the little hand held hobby ones to a full size one used to paint cars. I’m hoping this information will help a bit. I’m not going to talk about what you need to paint cars – just fine scale models at this point.

    See the photo below. That is a US$70 compressor. That might sound like a lot but that is the minimum I would tell anyone to start with. Cheaper ones will very quickly frustrate you. Here is what this has over most of the cheaper ones.

    1) this unit can go up to something like 50PSI (4.4 bars differential to atmosphere?) You will need a high psi at time for paint that you cannot always thin way down or for when certain effects need to be done at a longer distance. You will learn how to adjust pressure as…

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  • Nacam Cpns posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 1 year, 5 months ago

    Hello everyone. I owned 74520 HG Compressor two weeks ago. and i broke the Basic Airbrush that come with it. So i tried to use another kind of airbrush.

    I’ve been wonder with the Air valve joint. air won’t comes out unless you push the trigger down. does it effect anything to my compressor? i feel like it’s gonna explode or something

    • That is how they should work – air should only come out when the button is pushed. I hope the old airbrush worked that way. I have no idea about that compressor but mine turns on and off as the air reservoir empties out and it fills back up. I also don’t see a regulator or moisture trap? Those get critical pretty soon. If you paint in humid weather you will get a lot of water in your paint from the compression of the air. If you use only water soluble paint it might be okay – but in general not. IF it were me I would put a regulator and moisture trap between that compressor and the airbrush.

  • OniMun posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 1 year, 7 months ago

    So my Drain & Dust Catcher II came with this cotton thing. What is it for and if it’s for the catcher, how do I use it?
  • OniMun posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 1 year, 7 months ago

    So I recently just got the Mr. Compressor L7 and it came with an air regulator. I know how other regulators work but, I can’t seem to figure out how to set up and use mine. Any advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated! πŸ™‚

  • Nick posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 1 year, 11 months ago

    I’ve finally joined the airbrush master race! I’m going to buy paints and thinners, then it’s time to practice just on paper.
    I’m thinking of starting with lacquer paints, any recommendation from the more experienced as to what paints I should use when I’m starting out? I have some enamels but I’m not sure how well they work in an airbrush.
    • i used the good old fashion tamiyas but prob with that stuff it scratches easily so you have to pledge it and wait a while but spraying with laquers dont forget to wear a gas mask that stuff is toxic but have fun with it keep a good distance away from the parts not too close or ull overspray n not too far so u cant do any good precise painting

    • Was that Tamiya Acrylic? My local hobby shop has a decent selection of them but I don’t know if you need to thin acrylic like you would for lacquer paints.

      Thanks for the tips for spraying, I’ll be sure to keep them in mind when I’m setting up.

    • Finally, Nick has joined the party!!! πŸ˜› Congratulations on your purchase!
      The Tamiya acrylic paints need to be thinned. You can use X-20A or Isopropanol Alcohol. If you choose to use the latter one, make sure it’s at least 90%.
      All paints scratch, so it is advisable to clear all paints….
      There is no problem in using enamels in the airbrush, just thin them accordingly.
      I would stay away from Mr. Hobby Lacquers. I used them on my MG Strike. Had a primer by Alclad on there (a really good primer IMO) and when I did some panel lines with that fine tipped Gundam Marker it chipped the paint off of corners. Just a light touch with the metal part of the tip, I kid you not, no a hard reckless motion, heck, even doubt if the metal made contact at all πŸ™
      Mostly I decant spray cans by…[Read more]

    • Thinners…. As I read it. I got alot of problems during my past projects. Using Vallejo acryliccolors, i thought using thinner and cleaner from Vallejo should be an emprovement to just using water. But i figured, that thinner and cleaner kinda reacts with water, causing a total block of the colorflow inside the pistol. Just using water, I have no such thing. Suggestions?

    • I’m pretty rough when it comes to airbrushing. $30NZD airbrush sets and a nice medium sized cheap chinese compressor. I decant tamiya spray cans into the hopper and it stretches out the cost of the cans as they can be expensive. The outcome isn’t bad and it’s great for experimenting. I use a strong Resene paint stripper for cleaner for all types of paints. Best cleaner!

    • For what it’s worth – I use a wide range of paint types in a lot of different applications which includes fine scale modeling/gunpla. I almost always use the thinner and paint from the same brand. I find that works the best for me. I use enamel a lot for base coats – needs a good long time to dry and needs a sealing top coat if you are going to do lot of other stuff on top.
      Here’s a challenge for you – this is how you will know you have your cleaning routine correct.
      Spray the brightest red you have – then change to white,…any pink at all?. If not then you are good, if so you’ll need to learn more how to clean. Top coating or priming is an easy paint session. It’s get’s interesting when in one session you need to spray 10 different colors – and realize that you missed some…[Read more]

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