• Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 5 days ago

    In reply to: Meijin the 5th posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question: Is it fine if I sprayed Mr Hobby top coat on top of acrylic hand painted kit. If it isn\'t safe can somebody tell me a good top coat suitable for hand painting. I bought AK Interactive\'s ultra matte varnish but the consistency of that thing is pretty much the same as water. I can\'t use it. thx View

    I’ve primed my kit with white/grey acrylic paints. It worked for me after that crappy primer I bought expensively(costs more than most well known brand primers such as Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Gaianotes) ruined the model. I’ve also brought a lacquer primer so that I can use it in the next project. The lacquer primer works just fine.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 5 days ago

    In reply to: Meijin the 5th posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question: Is it fine if I sprayed Mr Hobby top coat on top of acrylic hand painted kit. If it isn\'t safe can somebody tell me a good top coat suitable for hand painting. I bought AK Interactive\'s ultra matte varnish but the consistency of that thing is pretty much the same as water. I can\'t use it. thx View

    Thx for the info. I’ll use Mr Hobby top coat then.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 5 days, 6 hours ago

    In reply to: Meijin the 5th posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question: Is it fine if I sprayed Mr Hobby top coat on top of acrylic hand painted kit. If it isn\'t safe can somebody tell me a good top coat suitable for hand painting. I bought AK Interactive\'s ultra matte varnish but the consistency of that thing is pretty much the same as water. I can\'t use it. thx View

    I’ve read from an external source that lacquer paints are the strongest type of all. Enamel and acrylics can be sprayed/brushed on top of them but it doesn’t work the opposite way. But it was from one source and is looking more references regarding this issue. If there’s no issue with painting lacquer on top of acrylics than I’ll go grab one. It’s much easier to get lacquer top coats instead of acrylic ones.

    • For panel washes you can use enamel over lacquer though, just fyi.

      I’ve only completed two kits with full paint and my process went acrylic paint, lacquer gloss coat, enamel paint panel lining, and lacquer flat coat and I’ve never had issues or any of the paint running.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 5 days, 6 hours ago

    In reply to: Meijin the 5th posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question: Is it fine if I sprayed Mr Hobby top coat on top of acrylic hand painted kit. If it isn\'t safe can somebody tell me a good top coat suitable for hand painting. I bought AK Interactive\'s ultra matte varnish but the consistency of that thing is pretty much the same as water. I can\'t use it. thx View

    Everytime I brush on top of it, it will “shrink”(I don’t know the proper way to say it :p) so it’s no use. Same thing happened with the primer. The primer has that consistency of a water and instead of priming, I’m ruining the whole model. Since then I would always do a test run of a product fearing that the same thing might happen again.

    • Hmmmm…. not sure. Try a different primer, the first primer I used warped the plastic. The one from the hobby shop cost more, was in a spray can, and worth it. I heard krylon primer can work and be good, but I myself won’t try it after recently having success with my new one.

      • I’ve primed my kit with white/grey acrylic paints. It worked for me after that crappy primer I bought expensively(costs more than most well known brand primers such as Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Gaianotes) ruined the model. I’ve also brought a lacquer primer so that I can use it in the next project. The lacquer primer works just fine.

  • Question: Is it fine if I sprayed Mr Hobby top coat on top of acrylic hand painted kit. If it isn’t safe can somebody tell me a good top coat suitable for hand painting. I bought AK Interactive’s ultra matte varnish but the consistency of that thing is pretty much the same as water. I can’t use it.

    thx

    • I’ve only used lacquer based gloss and flat coats purchased at a hobby store. Hobby lobby has the same type and I’ve never had any issues spraying over acrylic hand painting.

      • I’ve read from an external source that lacquer paints are the strongest type of all. Enamel and acrylics can be sprayed/brushed on top of them but it doesn’t work the opposite way. But it was from one source and is looking more references regarding this issue. If there’s no issue with painting lacquer on top of acrylics than I’ll go grab one. It’s much easier to get lacquer top coats instead of acrylic ones.

        • For panel washes you can use enamel over lacquer though, just fyi.

          I’ve only completed two kits with full paint and my process went acrylic paint, lacquer gloss coat, enamel paint panel lining, and lacquer flat coat and I’ve never had issues or any of the paint running.

    • Why wouldn’t it be ok? So long as the undercoats were cured. Don’t rush. Give it a few days to cure. Then clear coat. Then 1 week+ in a closet or cabinet.

      • Everytime I brush on top of it, it will “shrink”(I don’t know the proper way to say it :p) so it’s no use. Same thing happened with the primer. The primer has that consistency of a water and instead of priming, I’m ruining the whole model. Since then I would always do a test run of a product fearing that the same thing might happen again.

        • Hmmmm…. not sure. Try a different primer, the first primer I used warped the plastic. The one from the hobby shop cost more, was in a spray can, and worth it. I heard krylon primer can work and be good, but I myself won’t try it after recently having success with my new one.

          • I’ve primed my kit with white/grey acrylic paints. It worked for me after that crappy primer I bought expensively(costs more than most well known brand primers such as Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Gaianotes) ruined the model. I’ve also brought a lacquer primer so that I can use it in the next project. The lacquer primer works just fine.

  • Finally all of my paints have arrived and I have painted the first layer on some parts including the shoulders, backpack, connection between the upper arm and lower arm, lower torso and a foot. Will be painting more tomorrow and adding a new layer on the parts that have been painted.
  • In reply to: Syd wrote a new post, Gunpla TV - Episode 231 - MG GM Sniper II - HG GM Ground Type We have a big episode for everyone showing new kits in different grades and talking a bit about handling those frame covers on the MG Psycho Zaku Ver. Ka Thunderbolt kit. We also talk about the just announced […] View

    Sweet! 2 Astaroths. Btw Todd placed one of the shoulder armour on Barbatos Lupus wrong lol.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 1 day ago

    In reply to: Vin.kam037 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question for this community: Does anyone know a good way of keeping decals on the kit without using \"Top Coat\" or \"Paint\"? Currently, I am using a bit of sticky glue to keep those buggers on and it seems to be working. View

    Mr Mark Softer & Setter are actually quite common u should be able to find them pretty much easy in most hobby shop. I’ve never tried Tamiya Mark Fit but it should do the job well.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 2 days ago

    In reply to: Vin.kam037 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question for this community: Does anyone know a good way of keeping decals on the kit without using \"Top Coat\" or \"Paint\"? Currently, I am using a bit of sticky glue to keep those buggers on and it seems to be working. View

    Ur welcome

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 2 days ago

    In reply to: Vin.kam037 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 Question for this community: Does anyone know a good way of keeping decals on the kit without using \"Top Coat\" or \"Paint\"? Currently, I am using a bit of sticky glue to keep those buggers on and it seems to be working. View

    Mr Mark Setter is used to make sure that decals stick on. However, if ur decals won’t stick because of a not flat surface it’s highly recommended that u use mr mark softer/tamiya mark fit as it helps decals melts so that it can conform to the surface it’s sticked on. I’ve personally never heard of issue with decals that won’t stick to flat surfaces, but I’ve heard a couple times that decals will hardly stick on non flat surfaces without mr mark softer/tamiya mark fit. Hope that helps.

  • Pic was taken 1/2 days ago lol. Seam line on some parts have been removed(not all parts are taken pictures of)
  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 3 days ago

    In reply to: GLX posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 I have a question, can I use spray paint? or it\'s against the rules? View

    It’s not on the rules so probably yeah

    • but airbrush is advanced category, spray is like a half way between hand painting and airbrush ….

      • spray paint is intermediate I’m pretty sure it may say something about that on the “How to enter page.”

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 4 days ago

    In reply to: Tatsuo9 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    Anyone got any tips to remove/cover up these flashes and molding lines other than painting?
    View

    y mean injected gold?

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 5 days ago

    In reply to: Tatsuo9 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    Anyone got any tips to remove/cover up these flashes and molding lines other than painting?
    View

    I’ve never experienced black with those ripples on black colour but gold/silver injected are quite common

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 5 days ago

    In reply to: Meijin the 5th posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    Done snapping up this guy for today. Seam line removal & nub marks removal will be done tomorrow and probably a few hand painting (maybe the hair and some smaller details). Most of the painting will probably be done after chinese new year bcs I currently don\'t have all of the paint needed with me.
    View

    Lol that super pose XD.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 5 days ago

    In reply to: Meijin the 5th posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    Done snapping up this guy for today. Seam line removal & nub marks removal will be done tomorrow and probably a few hand painting (maybe the hair and some smaller details). Most of the painting will probably be done after chinese new year bcs I currently don\'t have all of the paint needed with me.
    View

    Sort of the same lol :p. The arms on this kit is more complex compared to the rest of the parts tho. This is like building HG kit with the arms of a MG kit lol. The arms have inner frame on some parts and individually moving fingers.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 5 days ago

    In reply to: Tatsuo9 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    Anyone got any tips to remove/cover up these flashes and molding lines other than painting?
    View

    I had the same issue with those ripples with kits that are gold/silver injected. Nearly every kit with gold/silver injected color I built has this issue in some of their parts.

  • Meijin the 5th posted a new activity comment 1 week, 5 days ago

    In reply to: MangyForestCat posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017 @syd Why is there a “racial purity test\" for this competition? I do not understand at all the decision made to have this mixed messaging of what kits we are and are not allowed to use and whether they came from HLJ.com or not. If your intention was to create a completely closed ecosystem where no kits, but those bought from HLJ.com, would be eligible then obviously it is within your rights to do so. In that case why even bother with the description in the Advanced Category that it can be “a kit completely scratch-built, even a creation all your own that has never been seen before.” You know that from a logical perspective that those two things are mutually exclusive and cannot be true at the same time. You cannot BOTH A) Have a kit that you bought from HLJ.com or has been available to purchase from HLJ.com AND B) Make “a kit completely scratch-built, even a creation all your own that has never been seen before.” Those two are completely and utterly incompatible with each other. If you completely scratch-build a kit then it has obviously never been available for sale at HLJ.com. On top of which how do you judge this nonsensical little gem “the main part of your entry [has to] be an item that is, or was at one point, available for sale on hlj.com”? A completely scratch built, one-of-a-kind model, made at home from personally molded plastic/resin/vinyl/carbon-fiber, isn’t a kit that was once available from HLJ. On top of that, since it won’t have a “main part” to claim is from your website, how would you even possibly begin to categorize whether it’s eligible to partcipate? Honestly, I’ve studied with friends that have done computer programming and friends that have gone to law school. From a purely logical standpoint. This is terrible logic programming and makes no sense whatsoever. I bet this all went down a little something like this. Your boss Scott and everyone involved had a big discussion and, after a long examination and debate over 2013/2014, you decided to go a different direction and be more closed off, stifling, and restrictive with this year’s rules. Seeing all of this attention drawn to scratch built kits and items you do not sell on HLJ.com, you all came to the conclusion was not good for your business. You decided to make it more promotional in nature so that people would be more interested in using materials, building, and buying from HLJ. I get that. I completely understand that you want to draw attention to your company and this is all just one big promotion scheme. I’m not against that. What I am against is unclear rules and stifling creativity. Why not just be extremely clear, unrelenting, and Draconian with the rules? Why not just outright and flat-out state that we had to buy and a use a kit directly from HLJ.com? Why keep the colorful language in the Advanced Category saying you can completely scratch build a kit, when obviously that would, by any measure of logic, go against the idea that it’s from HLJ.com, or has at one time been sold there? You want to have it both ways and honestly your rules are not even close to allowing that to be true. And finally, why not just be more honest and open about this with EVERYONE? Why not just flat out tell everyone the reasons why you have different rules this year? Why have all this colorful, meandering, fuzzy, language around what is an isn’t allowed? Just be honest. You examined the 2013/2014 competition. You realized people weren’t necessarily using HLJ kits and materials. You didn’t really appreciate the true scratch-built and models from companies you don\'t sell from. You decided to do this competition and be more restrictive with the rules and regulations. You decided to stifle people’s choices and imaginations in order to promote your shop. I hold none of that against you. You are a business. However, as I already mentioned, what I do hold against you is this unclear and rather ridiculous stance you have taken. It’s obvious you just did a “Copy & Paste” of the old competition rules and category descriptions but you added in the “racial purity test” to make sure the kits come from HLJ. However you failed to notice that the rules from 2013/2014 do not mesh well with the ADDED “racial purity test” of 2017. Why not just extremely clear about this? * For reference to everyone this is the link to 2013/2014’s competition. http://hlj.com/Playing-With-Plamo-Modeling-Competition-2013#howto ** This is the link to 2017’s competition http://hlj.com/plamo-2017#howto View

    If unclear rules is ur issue, contact HLJ staffs/ read FAQs. They have made stuff much more clear in the FAQ page. Stifling creativity? not sure about that. HLJ does sell huge selection of scratch building materials. Besides, read the FAQ page on 2017 page. U are allowed to use kits NOT BOUGHT FROM HLJ but U WILL NEED TO OWN A HLJ ACCOUNT.

    p.s. just like tony said above don’t refer this as a racial puriy tests. Seriously, it’s offensive and do mind using a more appropriate vocabulary when posting something.

    • I think I can grasp a bit of Mangy’s frustration/confusion. The root of this problem is not the scratch building or using an HLJ kit, etc, but the use of poor diction to describe the “mentioned” judging criteria. The term “completely” was probably implied as 100% of the kit is built from non preexisting parts (i.e. literally building it from the ground up like a clay sculpture). This created a contradiction since the entry needs to be, at one point, a kit HLJ sales/sold.
      But in all fairness, this is the second time HLJ is hosting the contest, thus they should have clearer guidelines. However, it is not uncommon to discover some growing pains with the new rules. It is the participant’s liability to read, understand, and stay updated on the rules and ask for clarification if…[Read more]

      • You are the only one who has hit the nail right on the head. You’re exactly right. You understand my frustration and confusion considering I was already thinking of what I would be modeling and painting. It is absolutely semantics but it’s also about being both contradicting and inconsistent within their own rules.

      • I’ve already mentioned this but think of the ridiculousness of not allowing limited edition mail-order Gundam kits.

        Like say from the website Gentei Kits.

        http://genteikits.com/kits/

        These are exclusive Bandai Gundam models that are available only if you order them by mail and available only in Japan on a one by one ordering basis.

        HLJ does not, has never, and will never sell the following available kits you can get directly from Bandai.

        MG 1/100 Tallgeese II & III

        HGUC 1/144 RGM-89S Proto Stark Jegan

        RE/100 1/100 Rebawoo

        So how do we classify those kits? Not allowed according to the ridiculous rules, or is it allowed because they are so similar to the “kinds of kits” that HLJ sells? So how “pure” do the kits have to be? Are only kits from HLJ.com allowed? How about kit…[Read more]

        • The base kit needs to be available on HLJ for purchase.
          Since the listed kits are originally a “P-Bandai” they will be considered illegal because they are not available at HLJ. However, it is not against the rules to alter another kit to resemble a P-Bandai. For example, HG IBO Iok’s Reginlaze is just a recolor of HG IBO Julieta’s Reginlaze. You can get Julieta’s Reginlaze and just repaint it.

        • For eligibility, the competition states “The first photo posted should be of the model kit box you intend to build.” This is done so the judges can confirm, what kit you are building and is the available for purchase. This is why they also have at least 4 work in progress photo, as a reference to check if you are not cheating. If anything, the more photos you post, the creditable your entry will be.

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