Drastic77

  • Rekone posted an update in the group Group logo of Gunpla for beginnersGunpla for beginners 10 years, 7 months ago

    I tried seam line remival by using the cement method and it doesn’t seem to work. I tried both putting cement on top and sanding and also cementing together. I watched the videos countless times. I found out that if there is a slight gap this method is useless and other are better. But then I have to repaint. Please help.

  • Rekone posted an update in the group Group logo of Gunpla for beginnersGunpla for beginners 10 years, 7 months ago

    Not new to modelling but still a noob. When filing down nubs I noticed that the plastic where the nubs were are slightly discolored. I tried different ways of cutting part off sprues but still the problem persist. Is this common?

    • I’m also relatively noobish but I just use nippers then clean it up with a hobby knife. This had very slight discoloration on colors but is very noticeable on the dark red and blue found on the RG RX-78-2 and the navy blue on unicorn gundams.

      • Thanks Nik. I guess wheb you budf it out it is really not that bad.

        • If you don’t like the discolouration but don’t want to paint the kit you can always use a gundam marker that matches the plastic’s colour colour. You can get them in sets of colours that match a certain gundam series’ colours on…[Read more]

  • ace posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 7 months ago

    Anyone ever stripped a chrome hyaku shiki for painting purpose’s????

    Also any tips on painting the small links from the umbilical’s on zeon suits?

    • I’ve never stripped plating from a part…well not on purpose but I hear oven cleaner is a good way to go.

      as for the small links what you can do with those is jab a toothpick or two into the hole till you get a snug fit, then to be safe you can pull it back out and wrap the toothpicks in a bit of tape then stick them back in, that should get you…[Read more]

    • You don’t need to strip it. Just use primer as if the kit wasn’t chromed. I’ve done and it works. Alternative you can sand it. If you want a silver Hyaku Shiki use Gundam Marker Remove to remove the gold.

      • Sounds good guys thanks. I was kind of afraid the primer wouldnt bond very well to the chrome plating but some sanding should help the primer adhere. Dont know why i didnt think about that.

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 7 months ago

    Hello again, now then, master grade unicorn phenex!

    …now I’ve done a test with spray can paints on coated runners, I seen the effect if I used too much paint (and even then who knows the long term effect of even a single thin coat) but what about decal bonder or…how the heck am I meant to deal with water slides?

    I could just slap them on…[Read more]

  • Heya! I will be getting the G-Exes Jackedge soon and want to make a small scene out of it. I used to do model trains so I can cover the scenery, but wanted some advice on painting it. It’s glossy black now and I want to do it in flat black… I have the paints and materials but is there is any advice I should keep in mind with this kit?

    Thanks

    Beau

    • I never do a diorama but i think u should think what type of scene you want to do..a aftermath battle scene is somewhat I’m interested on seeing

  • Alteira posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 7 months ago

    Hi!

    So i got myself a mg sinanju ver ka. I want to paint the gold trim of the sinanju with tamiya gold leaf and im new to the painting part so here’s my questions:

    1. Should i use a thinner when i paint the gold trim or can i do without?
    2. will the 0.3mm brush do fine?
    3. is it a must to topcoat it? if so should i go for matte or gloss?

    regards alteira

    • Can’t answer 1 or 2 as I’m learning myself (im just using acrylic, you could get away with not thinning it for those parts but not sure if acrylic has same rules as enamel) but with 3…

      Top coating PROTECTS the paint, and enhances the effect, but its up to you which to do, want it shiny like a show room car, go for gloss, or you want it flat so…[Read more]

    • mixing with paint, of course if you want the gold paint to be smooth. If you intend to use airbrush, masking it will be best way to do it. What I did is –
      1. spray black,
      2. mask black, cut along the line,
      3. spray gold.
      4. touch up black paint if is over it.
      5. clear coat.
      Hope that help you.

      • aah! but i plan to handbrush it..somehow i forgot to type it..:/ can’t afford airbrushing and spray cans are generally expensive here in sweden at atleast where i bought my can..i tried it once masking and using spraycan on the mg strike freedom’s guns (the blue part) it turned out ok a little bleed but all in all ok. should i spray can or…[Read more]

        • my bad. Hand painting with metallic color, try adding leveling thinner if you can find it, or just few drop of retarded mild from Mr. Hobby. It will be more smoother. 🙂

          • would the tamiya x20a thinner work??:)

            thanks for the replies!

            • If you are using Tamiya acrylic paint, yes. You can use X20A. If is lacquer paint, then you need leveling/retarded mild. have you use Tamiya enamel paint, is is really smooth with hand paint. 🙂

    • I’ve actually used the specific paint you’re talking about before and my recommendation would be to use the leveling thinner as well, gold leaf paint has quite a thickness to it as it has somewhat large metallic particles in it and with hand brushing details the thinner the better so you don’t bleed onto other parts you don’t want gold, but I’d…[Read more]

      • Hi!

        This guy is only using the gold leaf with no thinner.
        http://gunpla-inochi.com/mg/sinanju-ver-ka/
        i plan to mask around where i paint but i don’t know what to do with the emblem. is it possible to use like a gundam marker/real touch marker to fill in the black lines? i think i’ll go for gloss then but what about the semi-gloss??

        thanks for…[Read more]

        • looked over that post and there’s more to it than paint, some parts he’s using foil stickers and painting gold over that which he shows and he actually does point out quite a few techniques as well under his painting tips, which I’d say are worth checking out it’s quite informative.

          The only part he explicitly painted on the model was the chest…[Read more]

          • what ratio would you suggest? 60% retarder 40% paint? just got my sinanju so now i need to order the paint etc..

            thanks for the help! really appreciate it!

            • retarder I can’t really say I’ve never really used a separate retarder I use leveling thinner which has the retarder included but that said it seems the Tamiya x-20a thinner does have some retarder in it already so just go with that and as for thinning you kinda have to find what works for you but in general the recommendation seems to be 2 drops…[Read more]

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 7 months ago

    ITS ME AGAIN, anyone bought from gkgundamkits.com?

    Specifically “bandai kits” and not the 3rd party/resin kits they sell, there is a kit I’m eyeing off, but being hong kong based where all the fake stuff is, and because I can’t find many reviews even with google…

    tldr can I trust them with a legit gundam model, wouldn’t mind me this specific…[Read more]

    • As long it got a logo of ‘Bandai’. Nobody will try to fake Bandai logo.

      there are something I don’t really agree and need to speak it out. Resin kit is expensive, I myself sometime will buy Metalbox SD resin kit, but if written as ‘discontinued’, 3rd party is only my way to buy it. Same with Five Star Stories resin kit, original kit could easily…[Read more]

      • Don’t get me wrong….
        I buy fake Bandai kit too… but like me explain why.
        Most advance builder (gunpla) will buy fake gunpla kit, mainly only for certain weapon of this kit or just need the skeleton. Is a waste to buy the original just for those parts unless you are rich. 😛 Advance builder spend most of their money on aftermarket parts, putty…[Read more]

      • I liked your views…but after much thought *COUGHCANCERWARNINGWITHRESINKITSCOUGH* im not quite ready, nor equipped *COUGHBEDROOMMODLERCOUGH* to try.

        Well I’m more worried about getting a knock off, sure I see the bandai logo…but its a stock image, but im not fully versed in the knock off world, I know some are branded like TT hongli (local…[Read more]

        • If is TT hongli…seriously, stay as far as possible. Because it doesn’t worth a cent. XD

          If you got a picture of the kit you refer to, I would like to see it and maybe I could help you. For TT Hongli model, and some other fake Bandai Gunpla models, usually the logo is in red like ‘Bandai’ but the words is not written as ‘Bandai’. Plus the…[Read more]

    • Oh, its an original model (so it claims), specifically one of the bandai online exclusives…I won’t say which because im not sure how long it’ll last :S

      Considering on amazon its going for $150+ for it (which is insane) its a big bargin!

      As for parts and extra weapons…I use gentei kits, the parts replacement system is back up (and is now in a…[Read more]

  • brypla posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 7 months ago

    Does anyone here know what is the material, which some builders use to create original parts, and how to use that material?

    • Some use putty, some use resin (i think) and some use “ploplate”, not sure what that is, and ther emay be many more materials…

      Here is an example of what a real hardcore custom is like, from vegeta8259 on youtube, watch his work in progress vids, they could give you good references…or scare you away…[Read more]

  • Brian posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 7 months ago

    Hi, does anyone know if hairspray paint chipping requires an airbrush to spray on the top coat that goes over the hairspray? I’ve tested using Tamiya TS-49 spray and have been unsuccessful and I’d really like to for sure what is stopping me from being able to chip off paint. Thanks.

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