I guess you mean the sleeves on a Sinanju or similar suits.
If planning on using a pray can for both colors, you have to mask as the Tamiya spray cans are lacquer based paints. So wiping of the second color sprayed on isn’t a option. This is because you need a lacquer thinner which will take off the first layer of paint too. And might even eat…[Read more]
sinanju since that kit prob has the most sleeves u can possibly get if not then u could just use pla plate and mold ur own like how goodguy dangunpla did for his geara doga
Just a short question here, does Tamiya spray paint metallic orange go well with Tamiya spray paint bright mica red? Need some reply as not sure what colour to buy to fit the metallic orange
they should go quite well together metallic and mica both get a nice sparkle to the paint, I think Mica actually sparkles more but it shouldn’t be overpowering either
If the parts are already painted, you could try getting your hands on metallic flakes or pearl powder. Then mix it with a gloss clear and spray or brush it over the painted parts
yeah if the part is already painted then the places in the clear coat will help that effect, if not then Tamiya has paints with the flakes in them. They’ll be listed on the can as metallic, pearl or mica. Pearl and mica are basically the same thing btw they both use mica flakes. As for where to get the flakes.
@Steven, believe it or not, but I got my pearl powder from a site where you can get items to make your own soap bars. And I have seen some shops at Ebay who sell them. But mostly they have a colored sheen in them. Like yellow, green, blue etc.
Even HLJ sells them. They are made by Wave. I’ve ordered them, but not yet used them, as I’ve got a few…[Read more]
I actually am already aware of colored mica, and have looked into places to buy them. In addition to what you’ve mentioned people have also told me makeup stores are a good place to look, might be a bit awkward going in there but if they have it then it’s as good a place as any to get it.
Think the confusion came cause I mistakenly cut off my…[Read more]
That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work.…[Read more]
If these bubbles appear in the drying process, there is a weird chemical reaction with the paint and a previous painted or sprayed on substance.
Did you wash the runners or parts before starting to paint. The chemical reaction could be the result of the paint reacting to the release agent that is sprayed in the molds before the casting process.…[Read more]
That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work.…[Read more]
A tad thicker than milk. More like thick chocolate milk. For the airbrush I use a 50/50 mix. I think try to start with 75 percent paint and 25 percent thinner. The paint needs to be rather thin. If you brush it on, you should see the brush strokes settle in 30 seconds. If the paint is too thin, you might get sags. The first one or two layers of…[Read more]
Just two questions that i need some urgent help in,
1. how do i identify which is a water slide decal and which is the usual stick on decal
2. how much thinner should i use to thin the Mr Colour paint or what consistency do i need to look for when thinning so as to be hand painted by paintbrush
1. you can tell if you using a water slide if the back ground of the paper is blue and when the back of the paper feels like normal paper but the front feels waxy
dry rub on they always have like some extra wax paper on the back of it for you to take off so it doesnt stick to any other suface before being applied onand they have a clear…[Read more]
actually thining paint for hand painting is advised so that you will not leave brush strokes. You just need a lot of patience since you should apply few very thin coats of paint and try to gradually build up the color.
A tad thicker than milk. More like thick chocolate milk. For the airbrush I use a 50/50 mix. I think try to start with 75 percent paint and 25 percent thinner. The paint needs to be rather thin. If you brush it on, you should see the brush strokes settle in 30 seconds. If the paint is too thin, you might get sags. The first one or two layers of…[Read more]
If these bubbles appear in the drying process, there is a weird chemical reaction with the paint and a previous painted or sprayed on substance.
Did you wash the runners or parts before starting to paint. The chemical reaction could be the result of the paint reacting to the release agent that is sprayed in the molds before the casting process.…[Read more]
That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work.…[Read more]
I kinda observe that Bandai now is somehow getting lazier in terms of MG production, like instead of releasing the long waited nightingale in MG, Bandai decided to just release it in a new line called RE 1/100 which is literally jus like a HG assembly but with outer armor details of MG and little inner frame. Definitely will rather spend money on…[Read more]
Cost of manufacturing to Bandai, and the price tag for the consumer would be a big turn off for everyone. Dendrobium, and Neo Zeong have no inner frames, and are HG’s look at the price tag on those, Nightingale is not exactly tiny either.
I get the impression that bandai has its own internal release and development agenda so I bet that somewhere in a deep dark warehouse there are already prototypes for a lot of mg kits people want and its just about timing when they feel they need to release a specific kit
Just wanting to ask this question, anyone here have any advice how to swap the cloth like piping on thunderbolt series zaku to the normal zaku type piping
Anyone here have any suggestions how i can add lining to my kit over the metallic paint without having to mess up the metallic as i am not very good at using lining pen
First apply a gloss coat. Then you can safely thin an enamel and let it run through the lines by just touch the line with the brush. Wipe off the excess with some enamel thinner on a qu-tip (earbutt). Some use lighterfluid. In any case, begin with something mild to wipe the excess off. Anything too strong can dissolve the gloss coat and or the…[Read more]
So wish there will be at least a 2.0 release for the MG Gundam G04 and G05, liked the weaponary, design and colour scheme a lot, but well, i just have to wait and hope
actually, if i heard correctly, the reason why the age fx and age 3 MG was removed was due to poor sales rate of the age kits, so Bandai just decided to cancel making an MG age fx and age 3
i actually had once tried the colour scheme of banshee where i painted the frame, horn,yellow parts metallic gold and the red two shades of black and it kind of turned out quite well
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I guess you mean the sleeves on a Sinanju or similar suits.
If planning on using a pray can for both colors, you have to mask as the Tamiya spray cans are lacquer based paints. So wiping of the second color sprayed on isn’t a option. This is because you need a lacquer thinner which will take off the first layer of paint too. And might even eat…[Read more]
major williams did a tutoiral with spraycans this may help alot
http://majorwilliams.blogspot.com/2011/04/gundam-building-101-reverse-wash-and.html