Drastic77

  • FierceSmurf posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 10 months ago

    I am looking into getting a airbrush set up but need some help. I have never airbrushed before so I have no idea what to look for. I was told the badger renegade velocity was a good brush but I figured I would ask for some of your opinions.
    I would also like to know what other items I should get along with a airbrush and compressor.
    Any…[Read more]

    • http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Dual-action/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416262989&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush
      this link should be good if your getting ur first airbrush honestly i wouldnt spend too much on ur first one its easier to get a cheaper one play with it for a while then get something expensive like…[Read more]

      • i dont mind spending a little more if it gets me a solid airbrush. I figured buying a more expensive one up front wouldnt hurt as long as I dont break it. I just want to make sure what im getting wont be to hard to use and will work properly lol. If the pack you linked works well for you then I may get it.

        • well its actually better if u start with something cheap. buying something expensive doesnt always mean its the best but starting out is always better to start small and get more experience and then go to the big guns using a cheap airbrush and a expensive airbrush itll be the same with how they operate and plus breaking an airbrush is really easy…[Read more]

          • alright yeah ill probably end up getting the one you recommended. I was just worried that it wouldnt spray as nice or something lol. Thanks for the help.

    • There is no reason not to buy a good airbrush right away. And mind you, expensive doesn’t always mean good. And breaking an airbrush….? There are two weak things on an airbrush and those are the needle and the nozzle. As long as you take care in not bending the needle or over torque the nozzle, you’ll be fine.
      In buying an airbrush, the first…[Read more]

    • I’d suggest going with a single action airbrush first. a dual or double action airbrush is just an added complication you don’t need to be dealing with, though when you’re more comfortable with airbrushing then you may want to go get a double action it’ll give you better control of the paint and airflow. Other than that you definitely want to…[Read more]

      • I was thinking the same thing about the single action but I’m not sure I want to buy a airbrush and then buy another one within a few months or a year. Are double actions that much harder? I was told to get a double action. Also I can’t believe I didn’t think about the airbrush holder lol. That wouldn’t of been good. Thanks for the suggestion.

        • well double action theres alot more controlling u have to do and it take a while to get used to it it aint too bad but it takes some time to get used to single action theres no control over ur spraying its just like coming out of a spray can just normal air and u cant control how much paint u want on it

        • yes the holder is easy to overlook but if you start spraying and don’t have one it’ll get on your shopping list pretty fast lol.

          the double action airbrushes give you more control over paint and airflow, which can be nice, but for just basic painting a single action is good enough. it’s up to you how you want to go about it. if you think you’re…[Read more]

  • Alirubit posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 10 months ago

    Hellow, everybody I have a question for you, I recently started on the gunpla world and I want to do some panel lines using the panel wash technich on the kits I have but where I live it is very difficult to find the tools or type of paints available in other countries, I was able to fiind some water b ased Acrylic paints that I like but is it ok…[Read more]

    • one way you can try is to wet the line first. It is sitting there because of water tension. It should run after you wet the line.
      Depending on the surface, it is also easy to paint the line directly then clean off the surface.

  • Jaberwak posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 10 months ago

    Ok another problem. It looks like i manage to “misplaced” the HGUC Kampfer antena. Can someone who has the model make a picture of it with a ruler so i could get the dimensions right.
    Much obliged

  • Jaberwak posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 10 months ago

    Problems with chipping paint.
    Was doing some paint tests and come up with this big problem. Paint is chiping like crazy if i touch it, blow air at it (and i dont mean from…

    [Read more]

    • did u top coat it becasue thats the usual main cause top coat it wth some future becasue that stuff is resistant to almost everything plus its cheap

    • Havent topcoated it yet. It might have been my mistake. Also notice that the paint is chiping from places that have no mechanical connection like the top of the shoulders. Ill try fixing it by handbrushing and then topcoating it with gloss varnish. Question. Will it lose the metalic paint effect if i do that?

    • I don’t know if I’m seeing this right, but in the middle and the right edge on the top of the backpack, is the primer actually coming off?
      I’ve heard that some modelers had problems with the Vallejo primer. It’s recommended NOT to thin it, spray two light coats and a final covering coat with a drying time of at least a half hour between them and…[Read more]

    • The primer somehow holds…(the orginal color of the kit is dark purple) I know some modelers have problems with this primer. Im also in love/hate relationship with it. Love it for the ease of use and as long as it covers the part it works great. Hate it cause you just cannot sand this primer cause its kind of rubbery and doesnt eat into plastic.…[Read more]

    • *the primer holds on most parts. There are two places that came a bit off. Hopefully the fixes will hold.

    • Yeah, I know, mixing paint can be a pain in the butt. Maybe a tip, I use the paint mixing bottles from Vallejo. They are 30/35 ml. Then pore some alcohol in them to level out the bottom (they are spherical). I use a toothpick as a measure stick. For instance a 80/20 percent mix, if I don’t need much paint, I carve 1 cm on the toothpick. 80 percent…[Read more]

    • did you clean the plastic with water and liquid detergent or anything alike before painting?because their are some residue from molding the plastics (like oils, etc.) that make the paint can’t adhere so much.

    • Plastic was cleaned. Its just the last layer of paint pealing off. Didnt have time to check with demineralized water as tete sugested yet (had a rather hectic end of week in work) but i guess it could be the main culprit.

  • brypla posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    Just two questions that i need some urgent help in,
    1. how do i identify which is a water slide decal and which is the usual stick on decal
    2. how much thinner should i use to thin the Mr Colour paint or what consistency do i need to look for when thinning so as to be hand painted by paintbrush

    • 1. you can tell if you using a water slide if the back ground of the paper is blue and when the back of the paper feels like normal paper but the front feels waxy
      dry rub on they always have like some extra wax paper on the back of it for you to take off so it doesnt stick to any other suface before being applied onand they have a clear…[Read more]

      • actually thining paint for hand painting is advised so that you will not leave brush strokes. You just need a lot of patience since you should apply few very thin coats of paint and try to gradually build up the color.

        • oops sorry bout the misinformation

          • thanks for the advice, but in terms of thinning Mr Colour paint, what consistency should i observe to know the paint is thinned enough

            • A tad thicker than milk. More like thick chocolate milk. For the airbrush I use a 50/50 mix. I think try to start with 75 percent paint and 25 percent thinner. The paint needs to be rather thin. If you brush it on, you should see the brush strokes settle in 30 seconds. If the paint is too thin, you might get sags. The first one or two layers of…[Read more]

    • then what do i do if i start seeing bubbles formed on the painted area when dried,

      • If these bubbles appear in the drying process, there is a weird chemical reaction with the paint and a previous painted or sprayed on substance.
        Did you wash the runners or parts before starting to paint. The chemical reaction could be the result of the paint reacting to the release agent that is sprayed in the molds before the casting process.…[Read more]

        • thanks, but is it possible to do the reverse wash technique with tamiya spray paints?

          • That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work.…[Read more]

  • Nene posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    I need help to decide how I should paint my gundams? Should I spray paint or just put on enamel paint?

    • personally i think spray painting is better becasue its faster and doesnt take as long plus if your a noob at hand painting you can really see the brush strokes on the gundam and thats no good to me in my opinion

      • Alright I will try it out then, Thank you. Also do you know a good video on how to spry paint your gundam?

        • well just normal spray cans u just put the parts on a stick then stay like a few feet away and spray it in short little bursts
          for airbrushing though if thats wht you want id suggest youtube videos from ghost of zeon other guys like them

    • Hi @Nene. In episode 12 of GunplaTV Syd shows the basic techniques of spray painting. Maybe this will come in handy

  • Nene posted an update in the group Group logo of Gunpla for beginnersGunpla for beginners 9 years, 11 months ago

    Hi I just started building custom gundams and I wanted to know what the best way to paint my gundams? I don’t have an airbrush yet but there are so many ways to paint gundams but I don’t know which way to do it?

    • There are a few options left for you. You could choose to hand brush the models, but this is a very time consuming way to do it. A big advantage is that you can mix your own colors just like you do with an airbrush. If you don’t mind brush strokes, you can brush the color right on. If you don’t want brush strokes, dilute the paint with the the…[Read more]

    • Use Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner when you are painting with a brush. It will prevent the paint from drying up too quickly thus having time to settle evenly and prevent brushmarks.

    • Maybe you should try with spray can first..tamiya spray can is expensive but its easiest way to go

  • thebanshee13 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    @baimao heres something i made four years back the colors kinda coming off becasue i didnt repaint it and top coat it but ill get that done when im not as busy
  • Baimao posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    Hi guys, i would like to know what kind of materials is best for making a moon surface diorama. Currently I thinking of purchasing foam boards, polystyrene foam.

  • Jaberwak posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    Got my hand on a cheap Sazabi ver Ka. So a quick questions to the people who build one. Are there any tricky parts during the build? Did anyone tried doing the led mod on a sazabi?

    • My only problem I had was keeping track of all those pieces. Oh and be careful around the wrist armor. My Sazabi took a shelf dive and cracked the piece in half. Luckly it’s on the inside and still stays on. The hands can be a little finicky too. It feels like mine don’t like to stay connected to the arm firmly.

    • how much for the sazabi and where???????????
      i bought two sazabis and there are no problems to it with mine except for the hands i guess painting it though if you want to stick to the original scheme is tricky if you dont have the right colors at ur hobby shop but other than that its a pretty damm good worth kit id build sazabi ten times over if i want to

      • Well got one for 76$ (that included shipping) it should arrive in two days. It was kind of impulse buy since i just bought MG Ex-S.

        • wow 76 is a good buy whered u get it online or at a store

          • Got it online. Bought it from a user that had to quit the hobby but still had some unopened MG’s. Sadly im way in a RED cause he had some sweet prices and kits. Like Z 2.0 for 40 usd and so on. He would even give me bigger discount if i bought more of his kits.

    • i build mine with no real issues to report. the hands not feeling like they are in place is something that Syd talked about on gunplaTV and as long as you seat the polycap in the wrist properly the connection is very solid. I did and hand paint color swap and there were not many difficult parts of the build. are you planning on painting it? i…[Read more]

      • Ill think about painting it. Right now the kit will go into the backlog since i started to finally paint some of my old kits (current project Gouf Flight type – right now im removing the seam lines)

      • Actually for mine, the issue with the hands is not because the polycaps are not seated properly, but because the polycaps are too shallow and moving them too much will cause the hand to pop out. I can make him hold his guns and he can carry them still some what (the sheer weight and size is too much for the polycaps themselves to handle) but…[Read more]

        • i built two and for both i had issues with the hands the only other thing i felt fustrated was the joints in the legs and hips connecting them i want to mod it and make it like the sinanju legs but no idea how to

  • thebanshee13 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    black firday comin up anyone know THE sites to buy for cheap gundams?

    • Last year HLJ had a HUGE sale on all gundam kits for Black Friday so they may do something similar this year.

    • Yeah HLJ probably had the biggest sale from what I recall. I also remember Barnes & Noble had a pretty good coupon along with membership discount though they don’t really carry much.

  • Kazzu posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 9 years, 11 months ago

    This is not exactly a gunpla modeling question but its still related to gunpla. What do you do with your gunpla boxes? do you keep them or throw them away? i’ve been keeping all of mine but im running out of room to store them.

    • I actually keep mine too, but only the lids. I sort of disassemble them so they get flat. Then I store them in a large PG box. This way I’ll have all the boxes, yet they take little room to store. Oh, and I throw the bottom sections out

    • So far kept all of my HGUC and RG boxes fully 3D as it’s nice to see them all lined up in order. As for MGs I have about half of them 3D and the other half just the flattened lids like @teetee580 ‘s ones.

    • Have all of mine stacked in a closet, but quickly running out of space. Half the kits I build, I end up putting back in their boxes.

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