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brypla posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 8 years, 4 months ago Just two questions that i need some urgent help in,
1. how do i identify which is a water slide decal and which is the usual stick on decal
2. how much thinner should i use to thin the Mr Colour paint or what consistency do i need to look for when thinning so as to be hand painted by paintbrush
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Q/A & Help Group
1. you can tell if you using a water slide if the back ground of the paper is blue and when the back of the paper feels like normal paper but the front feels waxy
dry rub on they always have like some extra wax paper on the back of it for you to take off so it doesnt stick to any other suface before being applied onand they have a clear background
stickers usually have a green background
2 handpainting a kit i dont really think u need to thin down the paint u only need to thin it down when you airbrushing but since your just hand panting you really dont need to which i think makes sense becasue thinning paint down makes the paint very runny and hard to control
actually thining paint for hand painting is advised so that you will not leave brush strokes. You just need a lot of patience since you should apply few very thin coats of paint and try to gradually build up the color.
oops sorry bout the misinformation
thanks for the advice, but in terms of thinning Mr Colour paint, what consistency should i observe to know the paint is thinned enough
A tad thicker than milk. More like thick chocolate milk. For the airbrush I use a 50/50 mix. I think try to start with 75 percent paint and 25 percent thinner. The paint needs to be rather thin. If you brush it on, you should see the brush strokes settle in 30 seconds. If the paint is too thin, you might get sags. The first one or two layers of paint will show some of the original color when you are doing it right. The 3rd and 4th coat will give the coverage you are looking for. Leave the paint to cure for a few hours at least between layers. If you don’t, the layer that goes on top can disolve the under laying layer somewhat and make the brushstrokes apparent again. And just like Jaberwak said, it takes a lot of patience to get a good result. There is a good tutorial on YouTube on this subject. The person in this video is painting green on white plastic spoons. You might want to check it out. If I may make a suggestion, use isopropanol alcohol. A lot cheaper than Tamiya or MrHobby thinner and works great. But keep in mind, it needs to be 91 percent or higher. Some drugstores sell this. Your local pharmacist will sell it for sure. It is also used to clean wounds and such. Good luck and happy building wished to you
then what do i do if i start seeing bubbles formed on the painted area when dried,
If these bubbles appear in the drying process, there is a weird chemical reaction with the paint and a previous painted or sprayed on substance.
Did you wash the runners or parts before starting to paint. The chemical reaction could be the result of the paint reacting to the release agent that is sprayed in the molds before the casting process. This is to ensure the runners won’t stick to the mold.
But it is also common that there is air trapped in the paint when brushing it on. This might not be noticeable at first glance. This often happens when there is too much paint on the brush. There shouldn’t be any paint where the bristles connect to the stem.
This is bad in terms of durability of the brush, but also can cause air to be trapped in this section which then will flow with the paint onto the model.
The area that contains bubbles can be sanded down, but keep in mind that there no paint under the bubble. When this has happened to the first layer that is painted on, under the bubble there will be plastic from the model visible. When it is the second and so on layer, in might leave a noticeable indentation between the last painted on coat and the coat before that one.
In either way, this can be smoothed out by touching up that area with a tiny drop of paint after the bubble is sanded out. Leave this area to dry before sanding this area again, ensuring the surface is smooth and the layers of paint will be somewhat the same.
I hope this answers your question and helps you out
thanks, but is it possible to do the reverse wash technique with tamiya spray paints?
That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work. Tamiya spray cans as well of most paint in spray cans in lacquer based. This is the strongest type of paints and in order to wipe it off, you’ll be needing cellulose thinner. And this in turn is the most strong thinning agent. It will eat through all the layers of paint. Even through a lacquer based clear coat, which is the strongest of all clear coats.
If you are planning to use a spray can as the last coat, the one that will be wiped off, try getting a enamel based or acrylic based spray can. The only brand of acrylic spray cans I can think of right now is Vallejo. There will be other brands out there, I’m sure of it.
When using an enamel or acrylic based spray can as the first color, use a lacquer based clear coat on top of that so the paint won’t wipe off when wiping off the layer that is sprayed on top.
Hope this answers your question
thanks, and noted