Just two questions that i need some urgent help in,
1. how do i identify which is a water slide decal and which is the usual stick on decal
2. how much thinner should i use to thin the Mr Colour paint or what consistency do i need to look for when thinning so as to be hand painted by paintbrush
1. you can tell if you using a water slide if the back ground of the paper is blue and when the back of the paper feels like normal paper but the front feels waxy
dry rub on they always have like some extra wax paper on the back of it for you to take off so it doesnt stick to any other suface before being applied onand they have a clear…[Read more]
actually thining paint for hand painting is advised so that you will not leave brush strokes. You just need a lot of patience since you should apply few very thin coats of paint and try to gradually build up the color.
A tad thicker than milk. More like thick chocolate milk. For the airbrush I use a 50/50 mix. I think try to start with 75 percent paint and 25 percent thinner. The paint needs to be rather thin. If you brush it on, you should see the brush strokes settle in 30 seconds. If the paint is too thin, you might get sags. The first one or two layers of…[Read more]
If these bubbles appear in the drying process, there is a weird chemical reaction with the paint and a previous painted or sprayed on substance.
Did you wash the runners or parts before starting to paint. The chemical reaction could be the result of the paint reacting to the release agent that is sprayed in the molds before the casting process.…[Read more]
That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work.…[Read more]
Been planning to order the PG Strike for a while, but then the PG Unicorn presented itself… And after building the PG Red Frame and them sharing the same frame it will have to wait 🙁 Wish you lots of fun building it!
personally i think spray painting is better becasue its faster and doesnt take as long plus if your a noob at hand painting you can really see the brush strokes on the gundam and thats no good to me in my opinion
well just normal spray cans u just put the parts on a stick then stay like a few feet away and spray it in short little bursts
for airbrushing though if thats wht you want id suggest youtube videos from ghost of zeon other guys like them
@baimao heres something i made four years back the colors kinda coming off becasue i didnt repaint it and top coat it but ill get that done when im not as busy
Hi guys, i would like to know what kind of materials is best for making a moon surface diorama. Currently I thinking of purchasing foam boards, polystyrene foam.
i used a wooden board but i dont think it really matters if you use a foam board or not as long as the bottom can support the weight of the plaster then its fine i guess
Got my hand on a cheap Sazabi ver Ka. So a quick questions to the people who build one. Are there any tricky parts during the build? Did anyone tried doing the led mod on a sazabi?
My only problem I had was keeping track of all those pieces. Oh and be careful around the wrist armor. My Sazabi took a shelf dive and cracked the piece in half. Luckly it’s on the inside and still stays on. The hands can be a little finicky too. It feels like mine don’t like to stay connected to the arm firmly.
how much for the sazabi and where???????????
i bought two sazabis and there are no problems to it with mine except for the hands i guess painting it though if you want to stick to the original scheme is tricky if you dont have the right colors at ur hobby shop but other than that its a pretty damm good worth kit id build sazabi ten times over if i want to
Got it online. Bought it from a user that had to quit the hobby but still had some unopened MG’s. Sadly im way in a RED cause he had some sweet prices and kits. Like Z 2.0 for 40 usd and so on. He would even give me bigger discount if i bought more of his kits.
i build mine with no real issues to report. the hands not feeling like they are in place is something that Syd talked about on gunplaTV and as long as you seat the polycap in the wrist properly the connection is very solid. I did and hand paint color swap and there were not many difficult parts of the build. are you planning on painting it? i…[Read more]
Ill think about painting it. Right now the kit will go into the backlog since i started to finally paint some of my old kits (current project Gouf Flight type – right now im removing the seam lines)
Actually for mine, the issue with the hands is not because the polycaps are not seated properly, but because the polycaps are too shallow and moving them too much will cause the hand to pop out. I can make him hold his guns and he can carry them still some what (the sheer weight and size is too much for the polycaps themselves to handle) but…[Read more]
i built two and for both i had issues with the hands the only other thing i felt fustrated was the joints in the legs and hips connecting them i want to mod it and make it like the sinanju legs but no idea how to
An airbrush will be more professional but paint it whichever way you like! All that matters is that you have fun with it and get the results that please you. I paint all my kits by hand personally. May not be the Pro choice but it produces the look and feel I am going for with my kits.
I have to agree with wldeyoung on this one. Whether the model is hand painted, airbrushed or sprayed using a rattle can, as long as you are having fun doing it. There in only one wrong way making a model, and that is when you’re not having fun doing it.
And in my humble opinion, hand painting is far more difficult and time consuming than spraying…[Read more]
wide young and teetee580 tell it like it is. You can do whatever you want with Gunpla but be sure you enjoy whatever it is you choose to do. It is a hobby and the purpose of hobbies is to create enjoyment for yourself.
Just got My new 1/72 Blade Liger AB Leon Renewal from HLJ. I built one when I was young back in 2002ish so i had to get the new :). Going to start right after this post. (cant post photo as i lack a camera or phone)
Yeah HLJ probably had the biggest sale from what I recall. I also remember Barnes & Noble had a pretty good coupon along with membership discount though they don’t really carry much.
This is not exactly a gunpla modeling question but its still related to gunpla. What do you do with your gunpla boxes? do you keep them or throw them away? i’ve been keeping all of mine but im running out of room to store them.
I actually keep mine too, but only the lids. I sort of disassemble them so they get flat. Then I store them in a large PG box. This way I’ll have all the boxes, yet they take little room to store. Oh, and I throw the bottom sections out
So far kept all of my HGUC and RG boxes fully 3D as it’s nice to see them all lined up in order. As for MGs I have about half of them 3D and the other half just the flattened lids like @teetee580 ‘s ones.
Some people post links to their photo’s for the time being. However, there is a post in the Completed Models section about 17 hours old. It seems that the problem has been fixed
1. you can tell if you using a water slide if the back ground of the paper is blue and when the back of the paper feels like normal paper but the front feels waxy
dry rub on they always have like some extra wax paper on the back of it for you to take off so it doesnt stick to any other suface before being applied onand they have a clear…[Read more]
actually thining paint for hand painting is advised so that you will not leave brush strokes. You just need a lot of patience since you should apply few very thin coats of paint and try to gradually build up the color.
oops sorry bout the misinformation
thanks for the advice, but in terms of thinning Mr Colour paint, what consistency should i observe to know the paint is thinned enough
A tad thicker than milk. More like thick chocolate milk. For the airbrush I use a 50/50 mix. I think try to start with 75 percent paint and 25 percent thinner. The paint needs to be rather thin. If you brush it on, you should see the brush strokes settle in 30 seconds. If the paint is too thin, you might get sags. The first one or two layers of…[Read more]
then what do i do if i start seeing bubbles formed on the painted area when dried,
If these bubbles appear in the drying process, there is a weird chemical reaction with the paint and a previous painted or sprayed on substance.
Did you wash the runners or parts before starting to paint. The chemical reaction could be the result of the paint reacting to the release agent that is sprayed in the molds before the casting process.…[Read more]
thanks, but is it possible to do the reverse wash technique with tamiya spray paints?
That all depends on which layer in the process you’re going to use the Tamiya spray paints. Using it as the color of the raised edges on the parts, so, the color that will be painted over with an other color and then washed off, this is fine. If you are using the Tamiya spray cans as second coat, which is to be wiped off, this will not work.…[Read more]
thanks, and noted