I hope you all are doing well, especially during these tough times.
Today I want to share with you the second part of “The Rise of Omnimon,” a 3-part customization tutorial with a few simple, but effective, painting techniques, tips, and tricks that you can apply to your action figures and model kits to take them to the next level!
As mentioned in part 1, I’m working on Bandai’s Figure-rise Omegamon Amplified, also know in America as Omnimon. Well, today we are going to build its arms and weapons.
Without further ado, let’s begin!
First things first: we need to cut out the parts from the runners. The tools for this are a pair of nippers, a hobby knife and sanding tools, as usual. I suggest you to keep the pieces of each arm together and don’t mix them up.
This time I’ll show you a new way for applying base coats. And that’s with sub assemblies. A sub assembly is when you put together some pieces and build parts, without building the entire model. This is very useful when painting parts that form pieces, and helps us apply a more regular paint coat.
Just like we did last time, we are going to apply a black base coat to all of the dark grey parts, but also to the sword, and a white base coat to all of the other pieces.
For the base coat you can use any matte color you want — the most common are white, black, or grey — and apply it with a paint brush, airbrush, or even with a tin spray. Some brands make their own base paints (a.k.a primers) that you can buy at your local hobby store, but I always use common acrylic tin spray paint from my local hardware store.
The main color for this arm is blue, but we also need red for MetalGarurumon’s nose, gold for the spikes in the shoulder plate and some black and silver for some details. Therefore, I chose: Citadel’s Macragge Blue, VicHobby’s Insignia Red, Vallejo’s 70996 Gold paint, Citadel’s Contrast Black Templar and some cheap craft acrylic silver paint. Then I realized that the Macragge Blue was too dark. To fix that, I mixed it with some VicHobby’s Aircraft White to make it lighter.
The first color we are going to apply is black for MetalGarurumon’s “eyes” and the circles in the sides. The reason for this is because covering any color with black is easier than covering black with any other color. Therefore it will be easier to fix any possible mistake by applying thin coats in blue.
When painting near the outside border of those circles, I suggest you paint with the side of your brush instead of the tip. This way the bristles will touch only the inner walls of the circle and leave the outside border unpainted.
I recommend painting the inner side of the shoulder plate and MetalGarurumon’s head with black. This way it will look great from any angle!
From here it’s very straightforward. Thin your paints before applying them; remember, two to three thin layers are always better than a single thick one. Also, let the paint fully dry before applying the next layer. This will help you preserve the small details in the sculpt and prevent brush marks. Be patient, some colors need more coats than others.
Apply as many thin layers as you need to get the opacity you want.
Maybe you noticed that the shoulder has a black stripe in the middle. Well, I used some black paint for it, but the model kit actually came with a sticker for that detail, if you wish to use that instead.
Now, for the “eyes,” the “lower jaw,” and the small cannon, we’re going to use some silver paint. Using the dry brush technique, we’ll apply some paint to create a metallic look.
As you can see, I tried to paint the shape of the teeth with silver on the lower jaw. This creates the effect of paint stripped off by the friction between metal parts.
Before we continue with the left arm, we need to glaze this one. For this purpose I chose a 50/50 mixture of Citadel’s Shade Nuln Oil and Lahmian Medium. Just as we did with the armor.
You can use any other color you want, just make sure that the paint is transparent or a clear color. What we are going to do is to apply our paint all over the arm. We’ll make sure to paint any detail in the plastic to make it pop. Then, wait until the paint is fully dry.
And with that, the right arm is done.
For this arm, we’ll use almost the same process as the other one, but in a different order. This time, the main color will be yellow, with white for the horns and some black and silver for details.
First, we apply the main color to the arm pieces with the white base coat. I suggest leaving the shoulder plate aside for a while. For this, I chose an acrylic tin spray yellow paint from my local hardware store, the same paint used for the feet claws on the last tutorial.
And just like with the right arm, I suggest painting the inner side of the “head” with black paint, as well as the “eyes” and circles. Be careful when doing this; remember that back paint is difficult to cover.
Once we are happy with how it looks, we can assemble the arm before applying some effects.
Just like the right shoulder, this one has a black stripe, too. It’s also included in the sticker sheet, but I preferred to paint it in black.
With this arm we’ll apply the same techniques we used on the right arm.
First, we apply silver paint in the “eyes”, the “lower jaw” and in the base inside the mouth, with the dry brush technique.
Then, we apply the glaze. Remember to cover everything. Then, let it dry for a couple of hours.
Yellow and white are light colors, unlike blue, therefore we need to smooth the glaze. You can leave it as it is if you want, but for me it is too dark. I chose VicHobby’s Aircraft White for the horns and a 40/60 mix of yellow and orange for the rest of the armor. What we are going to do is apply this color with the dry brush technique. Remember to remove as much paint as you can from your brush before painting over the glaze.
As you can see below, the 40/60 mix of yellow and orange create an interesting effect in WarGreymon’s head. Now, it has some orange tones in some places instead of being a consistent yellow color. This way you can create a variety of effects for your models and figures.
Brave Shield Omega (Shoulder plate)
We’ll make some extra steps for this particular piece, that’s why I chose to work on it separately. Let’s begin with the base coat, but this time we’ll apply 2 different colors. Since this piece is almost flat and has a regular shape, we can apply a different base coat for each side. I chose black for the inner side and white for the outer side, like this:
From here, we follow the same process we used for the rest of the arm. First we apply the main color.
Then, we apply the glaze.
And last, but not least, we dry brush it. Just like we did with the rest of the arm.
Now, this particular part uses a clear red piece on top for the “Crest of Courage”. This symbol or “crest” comes in the sticker sheet, and to be honest, it looks pretty good under the red clear piece.
But, here is a simple way for paint it yourself, if you wish to.
First, we need silver paint. As mentioned before, I used a cheap craft acrylic silver paint for details. Since a clear piece will cover this, we can use the same cheap paint. But first, I mixed the silver paint with some black to make it darker. This will turn the clear red into a cherry-blood clear red. You can also mix it with white to create a lighter tone. Remember to thin your paints before applying them.
If you look closely, you will notice that the silver paint has a strange texture, this is because of the cheap craft paint. That’s why I suggest you use this type of paints only for small details. Don’t worry, the clear red piece will hide this for us.
Now, let’s use some black to highlight the “crest”. For this I chose Tamiya’s Panel Line Accent Color Black. You can get one of these at your local hobby store, or you can thin black paint until you get an “almost like water” consistency. We need a thin tip brush for these. And what we are going to do is touch inside the lines with the tip of our brush and let the paint flow.
Be careful, if you let too much paint flow, it will slip and make a mess. It’s really easy to fix but why risk it, right?
And with that the arm is done.
After that, the arms should look like this:
Sword & Cannon
In this section I want to show you how you can create different tones of the same color, just by adding different amounts of a second color. For this we only need three colors: gold, silver and black. I choose Vallejo’s 70996 Gold paint, Citadel’s Contrast Black and Citadel’s Leadbelcher.
Let’s begin with the “Grey Sword”. Just like the “Brave Shield”, the “Grey Sword” came in sticker form. You can see how that looks on this review. But, if you prefer to give it a paint job, you are in luck because all the details are already molded in the plastic.
For this paint job, we are going to use pure gold and silver paint, without mixing. As you can see, the center of the sword is black, that is why we applied a black coat instead of white. For the sword edge we are going to apply a couple of thin layers of silver paint, like we did with the shoulder plate. For the runes, we’ll use gold. If we thin the gold paint enough, it will be easier to apply inside of the crafted runes with a sharp tip brush.
If we spill some gold paint, we can clean it with a paper towel or just fix it with some black paint. At the end, the sword should look like this:
For the “Garuru Cannon” we are going to mix our paints. I’ll mix silver with black as well as gold with black. I must warn you, black is a very strong pigment, always use small amounts when mixing with other colors if you wish to archive a darker tone. But you can add other colors to the mix, maybe some white or red or blue, give them a try.
As you can see, there are two different tones of silver. Both were made with the same silver paint but mixed with different amounts of black. You can create several dark tones depending on the amount of black you use. You can make it lighter by adding white to the mix. This also applies to the gold or any other color.
When you are done and, most importantly, satisfied with how it looks, let the paint dry for a few hours. Remember to cover each part with a coat of clear paint to protect the paint job. And we are done, this is how it looks after being assembled.
I hope you liked this tutorial and, most importantly, find it useful.
Let us know what you think in the comment section below, as well as any question you may have.
Stay tuned for the last part of this series!
Stay safe out there and remember to wash your hands!
See you next time!
Awesome tutorial, you can really see the difference between standard and custom. Loved the detail in the weapons and shield.
I’m glad you like it my friend
Great Tutorial. Thanks for giving and sharing the insights of your builder skills.
Thanks, I’m glad you like it!
Great tutorial! thanks for sharing your techniques 😀
I love the detail on the lower jaw of the garuru arm, I had not thought of that hehe
It’s a pleasure! I hope it gave you some ideas!