If the parts are already painted, you could try getting your hands on metallic flakes or pearl powder. Then mix it with a gloss clear and spray or brush it over the painted parts
yeah if the part is already painted then the places in the clear coat will help that effect, if not then Tamiya has paints with the flakes in them. They’ll be listed on the can as metallic, pearl or mica. Pearl and mica are basically the same thing btw they both use mica flakes. As for where to get the flakes.
@Steven, believe it or not, but I got my pearl powder from a site where you can get items to make your own soap bars. And I have seen some shops at Ebay who sell them. But mostly they have a colored sheen in them. Like yellow, green, blue etc.
Even HLJ sells them. They are made by Wave. I’ve ordered them, but not yet used them, as I’ve got a few…[Read more]
I actually am already aware of colored mica, and have looked into places to buy them. In addition to what you’ve mentioned people have also told me makeup stores are a good place to look, might be a bit awkward going in there but if they have it then it’s as good a place as any to get it.
Think the confusion came cause I mistakenly cut off my…[Read more]
Hey, I am currently starting to build Crossbone Gundam. hile getting distracted I bore a hole into both shoulder vulcans. It isnt horrible but can anyone point me in the direction of a detailing part that can sit as a barrel of a Vulcan?
That’s a really good question… What I’ve seen on the site is that the few examples I gave you where for 1/100 scale. I’ll dive into it and let you know if I can find some for 1/144
This is really helpful. I am more than likely going to save this for the weekend purchases. I ended up purchasing a brass tube about 1/32in using it for plamo support and detailin
HLJ sells a lot of resin. But most is detail parts for car and plane models. There are some car models like F1 that are completely made out of resin.
In the past they did sell B-club (Bandai) parts and kits for Gundam, but when I look for them, can’t find them anymore…..
Has anyone ever built the GN Arms here? Both types and the P-Bandai Real Color version? My question is there color.
From my understanding and research, they are all differently colored but, I want the opinion of someone who has built all three and has experience comparing the colors of the kits because, I rally want to know!! XP
I’d like to add the MG Universe Booster to my MG Banshee Norn how do I make custom adaptor to be able to fit the Universe Booster into the Norn? Any ideas?
The problem is that the unicorn back pack connection is very different from every other suit. You could try cutting a rectangular hole into the current back pack slot and perhaps fit a poly cap behind it.
Hi all, I’m new to hobbylink tv but not on the gunpla hobby 🙂
Just wanted to post question i’m trying to find solution for few months now, let me explain.
I build few MG/PG/RG models so far but my last 2 kits are MG with water slide decals. The Sazabi and the Hi Nu which is in progress. I completed the sazabi and applied all the decals but what…[Read more]
If you’re not worried about painting and everything, and just want them to stay, you can either use some decal set, or spray the parts with a clear coat after applying decals. Decal set will have instructions on how to use it. Clear coat will let change the look of the kit depending on the type you use(flat or gloss).
Also put the decals in warm water. This will make the sort of glue that is on them more active. And like Slater4u said, use Decal Set. Just put a few drops in the water before placing the decals in. After they have dried for at least an hour, put some Decal Soft on top and let this also dry for at least one hour. After that you can apply the Decal…[Read more]
srry but thats gunna be pretty hard u could try gentei kits but im pretty sure its sold out if not ebay is ur best place but be ready to spend alot on it since its gunna be pretty difficult to get considering it came out a while ago
Hey guys! So im new to painting(hand painting btw) and was wondering with those acrylic paints(e.g. tamiya) do i apply the paint directly or do i have to mix it with paint thinner or water???
You can apply it directly, or thinned. Make sure that you use the right thinner though, as enamel thinner will cause acrylic to glob up. Acrylic paints you should be more and fine without thinning it out.
Hello there.
Firstly, Tamiya and other Alcohol based “acrylics” need to be thinned with alcohol or Tamiya X-20A.
Acrylics like Vallejo can be thinned down with water, but I suggest using distilled water or the thinning agent made by Vallejo. Some people even use Windex or any other Ammonia based cleaning agent for it.
And second, it all depends on…[Read more]
About the retarder. You dont have to use the same brand retarder as the paint. You can use general retarder for acrylic paints and it would work good. Im using retarder from Talens with both Tamiya and Vallejo paints (from non Air lines). Vallejo Air paints already have retarder in them so there is no need to add more – also despite being…[Read more]
Ok so… I recently spent like WAY too much on gunpla lol any who I have several kits now and 3 of them are Ver Ka. I got the sazabi, the Nu and the Full Armor unicorn(all ver ka) then I have a shin musha, an Astray red frame, andthe PG Unicorn… which should I do first??? I just don’t know lol oh and i have an hg unicorn destroy mode and the bansh…[Read more]
your back log is starting to look like mine 🙂 i would recommend the FA Uni first. then the PG YOLOcorn, then the rest of the ver ka stuff. Sazabi is a monster and a shelf destroyer so make sure u got space, now that i think about it so is the FA Uni… and i think the Nu is as well but i havent finished mine yet. I don’t do HGs… so yeah my vote…[Read more]
Haha I just bought a shelf that hopefully will hold them all! I started out doin HG.. but prob not painting cause I don’t have skill haha. I will possibly paint the shin musha but waiting on an airbrush lol my pastors gonna let me borrow it!!
Do the HG’s first. Then Red Frame (should be easiest MG of the bunch), then Shin Musha and then the Katoki hell….. Start with FA Uni, then the NU (some parts are tricky) and then the Sazabi
yeah there really isn’t too much you can do if you want to keep the factory gloss finish. just do you’re best to only cut away the nubs without damaging the rest of the surface. I wouldn’t use an xacto knife, though use a modeling knife and.or a sanding stick. xacto knives are just too big.
Anyways a bunch of the nubs won’t be visible with the…[Read more]
If the parts are already painted, you could try getting your hands on metallic flakes or pearl powder. Then mix it with a gloss clear and spray or brush it over the painted parts
yeah if the part is already painted then the places in the clear coat will help that effect, if not then Tamiya has paints with the flakes in them. They’ll be listed on the can as metallic, pearl or mica. Pearl and mica are basically the same thing btw they both use mica flakes. As for where to get the flakes.
Oh also Tamiya does actually…[Read more]
@Steven, believe it or not, but I got my pearl powder from a site where you can get items to make your own soap bars. And I have seen some shops at Ebay who sell them. But mostly they have a colored sheen in them. Like yellow, green, blue etc.
Even HLJ sells them. They are made by Wave. I’ve ordered them, but not yet used them, as I’ve got a few…[Read more]
I actually am already aware of colored mica, and have looked into places to buy them. In addition to what you’ve mentioned people have also told me makeup stores are a good place to look, might be a bit awkward going in there but if they have it then it’s as good a place as any to get it.
Think the confusion came cause I mistakenly cut off my…[Read more]
okay, thanks for advice