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thebanshee13 joined the group
Gunpla for beginners 10 years ago -
Gunpla_old_dog joined the group
Gunpla for beginners 10 years ago -
Spectre_808 joined the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years ago -
Bodie posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agoI’m new to Gunpla. Syd and Ryan are responsible for introducing me to the hobby, so I thought this would be a good place to ask my question about water slide decals.
I just picked up the Epyon Endless Waltz Gundam, and it came with dry transfers and water slide decals.
While building the kit, I attach the decals, as to make it easier for…[Read more]
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i have heard of people using microsol but i recomend using tamiya marker softener tamiya is mainly one of the best companys for models plus for ur decals the process is this even if ur not painting just skip the process
build
prime
paint
glosscoat with mr color, tamiya, gloss coat whichever u preferr
panel line
decal
softener on decal
then flat coat it -
Hmmm. Okay your problem is that the MG Epyon doesn’t have water decals. It has decals, foils and dry transfers. Dry transfers, you just cut out the one you want, tape it onto where you want it, and rub and then remove when you have everything rubbed. Like using carbon paper. That blue sheet is to protect the decal from coming off the plastic when…[Read more]
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the Epyon kit should not have waterslides included, as Bandai just started putting waterslides in MG kits last year, and only a handful of kits have them right now. Water slides will not have a clear plastic like sheet that they’re attached to, they will be one cohesive decal on a paper backing.
Dry transfers can look good, but they’re not the…[Read more]
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Doh! As you can see, I wasn’t kidding about being new to the hobby. Thank you for the help!
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Bodie joined the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years ago -
GloomyGhost329 posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agoOne more thing, I need to know how to make buildings for a diorama, im using a 1/144 and the psyco gundam, I want to make it so the psyco is reaching over a building trying to grab the 1/144, I’ve tried looking on YouTube but I’m not finding anything
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basically get a board wooden is preferred for me then take some plastruct which is the plastic wielding stuff if u dont know wht it is and make a rectangular prism add details paint it up and thus thats ur building then if u want the the ground to look nice spray it over with the base color add some plastics if u want stuff like broken boxes etc…[Read more]
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Thank you very much but all that is way above me, I’m trying to make a city, like DW, gunda 2 when the mkII meets the psyco
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oh citys then make the buildings out of plastics as i told before then paint the ground grey and that should look fine
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Thank you
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GloomyGhost329 posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agoHello everyone, I have a few questions, first I would like to get into doing reviews, can someone point me in the direction of a mid level to high level camera that’s not too crazy in price. Second how to set up a booth to do the recordings, like should I have anything on in the room or turn them off so I don’t get a feed back sound. And finaly I…[Read more]
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where do u live in the us if u are in the east coast i can def help
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PHX AZ lol
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oh then i cant help u u can try buying stuff from online like amazon or buy an airbrush and get the stuff from gundam planet gundam planet and hlj are good sites if ur buying lots of stuff cuz shipping is good with them its pretty cheap
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I get all my kits from hlj. But paints are just hard to find local ya know? Gundam planet sells paints? Airbrush is again above my skill lol I can build kits no problem it’s the making them look good that I’m still new at lol. I can panel wash and line, put on stickers, but ruin water and dry decals lol
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Amuro posted an update in the group
Gunpla for beginners 10 years agoSo I was trying to think of ways to improve this group. What do u guys think of a Facebook group?
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u no wht they need, an app sorta like fb and instagram and twitter just a hobby link tv app so convienient
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thebanshee13 posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agodoes anyone know how to make the psycho frame effect parts in to like the prism kinda look to it esp on the nu gundam fin funnels like this-
I don’t know who built this but it looks freakin sick!
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its the 9000dollar gundam look it up just type in google 9000dollar gundam
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Hmmmmm… ::opens up the nu ver ka box from the unopened backlog:: looking at the fin funnel parts i can tell that it was a sticker or something else that was inset into the surface of the plastic. There are recesses there so its just a matter of finding a suitable material (rainbow shiny plastic), cutting out the parts and likely gluing them in…[Read more]
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Just buy some aurora stickers. Then make some templates of the crevasses. This is like making a custom gasket for lets say an intake manifold on an engine, except using a gasket sheet, use some normal paper. Lay the paper over the inside of the fin funnels. Then a blunt but straight object like a very dull knife and gently scratch along the edges…[Read more]
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Nice mod, and good advices again from @teetee580. Am finding so much mod on this kit I think am good for the next couple of months as I prefer to concentrate on one kit at a time.
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That’s still “cheap”, the most expensive gundam are the ones made of metal and precious stones of the PG Astray-$47,000!!Who would buy this?
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The same freaks that buy gold plated cell phones.
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thats wht i was thinking but ive been wondering if there was another way of going around that
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and that’s cheap compared to the “platinum Fix Figuration RX-78-2 ver. KA” you can’t buy it but it has $250,000 worth of platinum and a diamond for it’s eyes, but back in 2007 it seems his price tage was comparable to that PG, only he’s about the size of an HG
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Hellvin posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agoHi everyone!I want to put LEDs for the psychoframe of my Nu ver.Ka. I’ve come across those pic where a lot of SMDs are arranged in series or so it seems. Anyone know how to reproduce that?-
To be honest, I wouldn’t do it like that. I reminds me of K.I.T.T. of the Night Rider series. And it doesn’t look like the builder use LED strips when seeing the angle of the LED’s in the arm. To me it looks like he drilled small holes to put them in.
If I where going to light up the psycho frame of the Nu, I would use the pegs which connects the…[Read more] -
Thanks for your comment. I really needed the insight of an experienced builder. I completely agree with you on the aesthetics and yeah it would be much simple. I was already having headaches thinking about all the SMDs I would have had to put together. I was thinking about neon Optic Fiber, but I knew I would face problem due to the “Zig-Zag” of…[Read more]
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I was also thinking about a so called hot spot. Had that problem with the PG Red Frame, the LED provided by Bandai is right behind the “eyes”. And the LED in the PG is of course not as wide as the clear part for the eyes.
Because of the pegs on the clear green part for the psycho frame on the Nu are a few millimeters long my guess is that the hot…[Read more] -
Im in the panning stages for something along the lines of “lighting up” the psycho frame on the nu. ive done a little bit of testing and have gotten the best results using something similar to what @teetee580 mentioned with backlighting the pegs. The only difference is i plan on mounting the LEDs long the edge of the frame part (perpendicular to…[Read more]
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What kind of wires are you using??I will be using polyurethane covered copper hair like thin wires. A tiny hole will be enough to thread all the wires. I don’t think it will brick my kit! It will be such a shame to do that to this kit!!
Do post pics!Am putting 23 LEDs on the MG Sinanju. If it doesn’t become a brick kit then am good to go on this…[Read more] -
Will be checking for updates!As for bricking my kit,I don’t think so-am gonna use PE coated copper coil wires that are thin as hair! So a tiny hole will do for all the wires to go through and it will cause less interference with articulation!
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@Hellvin, maybe something you already know, but even if you are using a very small wire, it could hinder the movement of the Nu if the wires are too short. For e.g. the arms, measure the length of the wire you need to use in a bent position. If you should measure in a straight position, it will come out too short, thus hindering the…[Read more]
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@teetee580, yep I know, but still thanks for telling me just to make sure, there may me obvious things am not aware of.
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Hellvin joined the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years ago -
calvin_0 posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agohi, can anyone provide some tutorial on how to paint the pilot figure that come with MG and PG gundam?
thanks
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I can’t find any specific tutorials but what I do is cut the ends of a tooth pick to a very fine point, then paint with that. I’ll do a base coat of the main color then paint on top of that.
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What I do is first using a pin wash. Let it flow in all the crevasses which then gives me clear lines to paint within. When it’s cured I use a magnifying glass and use a 5/0 brush for the little details.
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What would you have in mind about painting those, tool wise? 000 brushes do the job just fine for me. Just take care of it and it’ll be a great tool for fine work.
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calvin_0 joined the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years ago -
xXJUGGERNAUTXx posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agoSo I’m thinking of painting my MG Zeta Gundam 2.0 frame and all and I was wondering what order to paint in as far as the type of paints I will be using. I have a can of Tamiya enamel paint for the frame as well as Tamiya primer. I was going to use acrylics for the rest. Thoughts? Thanks for your help!
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Don’t use primer on the frame. Just make sure you wash the parts really good, and your good to go. Primer will create an additional layer that can potentially cause issues when putting the armor pieces on the kit(pieces wont fit properly, gaps between armor sections, etc).
As for your acrylic and enamel order, it depends on how you’re doing it.…[Read more]
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Do I clear the frame after I paint on the details with the acrylic? and if so what kind of clear since I will be using both enamel and acrylics on it?
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You can. Clear coat thankfully doesn’t create as think a layer as primer does. It really depends on what you’re going to do. If you plan on using decals on the frame, if they’re water slides, then use the enamel. If you’re not going to decal the frame, then its just whatever you want to do.
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awesome! Thanks for your help!
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well i painted my own zeta 2.0 and it was a pain in the ass. wht i did was basically paint parts that u would see thouroughlt and then paint up the parts u dont really see much in one piece the zeta gundam is avery annoying gundam to take apart so wht i would do is just dont take apart the model as much specifically the body and legs u can check…[Read more]
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Why not paint it BEFORE putting it together? That way you wouldn’t have any troubles about taking it apart.
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xXJUGGERNAUTXx joined the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years ago -
X posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years agook so… i have been researching ways to panel line your model after you paint it. i can not find it broken down in simple terms, i have googled and watched lots of videos, read some articles… maybe im just missing it. im scared to just try it… i have the gundam pour type panel line markers, which work amazingly! but i hear they eat the paint, also…[Read more]
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Hello X,
As to wipe off any excess of the Gundam Marker you could use rubbing alcohol, white spirit or benzine, provided you first had a topcoat on the painted pieces before you started panel lining your kit. I tried it out a second ago for you and it worked fine. Just use a damped cotton swap. If it’s drenched it can take more panel lining off…[Read more]-
@teetee580 hahaha i tested it out on a painted kit, i used a super fine gundam panel liner marker. grey. and the pour type also grey. it worked… for the most part, but when cleaning it up… i used 91% isopropyl alcohol, and after a few wipes it started to dull my paint. i think this might be because it was a matte clear coat? so i think im goi…[Read more]
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@X,
Before panel lining and decal always use a gloss coat. Gloss has no pigment in it which will result in a smooth surface, resulting in better flowing of the ink of the marker and no silvering of the decals because no water can get trapped underneath the decals.
A matte coat has some pigment in it which “floats” on the surface of the coat thus…[Read more]
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X joined the group
Q/A & Help Group 10 years ago -
X posted an update in the group
Gunpla for beginners 10 years agook so… i have been researching ways to panel line your model after you paint it. i can not find it broken down in simple terms, i have googled and watched lots of videos, read some articles… maybe im just missing it. im scared to just try it… i have the gundam pour type panel line markers, which work amazingly! but i hear they eat the paint,…[Read more]
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X joined the group
Gunpla for beginners 10 years ago -
Larry Utis joined the group
Gunpla for beginners 10 years ago - Load More
Drastic77
Gunpla for beginners
Q/A & Help Group
