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  • X posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 8 years, 6 months ago

    ok so… i have been researching ways to panel line your model after you paint it. i can not find it broken down in simple terms, i have googled and watched lots of videos, read some articles… maybe im just missing it. im scared to just try it… i have the gundam pour type panel line markers, which work amazingly! but i hear they eat the paint, also to clean up the mess what would i use to wipe away the excess without stripping my paint? this might have been answered here already but i couldn’t find a topic about it, sorry in advance. also thank you hahaha

    • Hello X,
      As to wipe off any excess of the Gundam Marker you could use rubbing alcohol, white spirit or benzine, provided you first had a topcoat on the painted pieces before you started panel lining your kit. I tried it out a second ago for you and it worked fine. Just use a damped cotton swap. If it’s drenched it can take more panel lining off than you want because of the solution running in the panel lines and dissolving the Gundam Marker.
      As for eating through paint, I never had this problem happened to me, but then I use a topcoat before doing so. There was only one time it screwed up my paint work. I used a Gundam Marker for panel lines and didn’t like the looks of it. I painted the part over again without stripping any paint off, and what happened one asks, the ink of the Gundam Marker dissolved and mixed with the paint. Meaning I could start stripping the part anyway.

      So for ease of mind; Topcoat the piece, use Gundam Marker, let it dry, wipe off excess with a moist cotton swap (with rubbing alcohol, white spirit or benzine, even lighter fluid will work).
      DO NOT use a topcoat after you’re done. In my experience Gundam Marker reacts with any paint you spray over it. Lightly misting a topcoat over it might work, but I wouldn’t take the risk if I where you.

      Hope this answers your question the way you hoped it will. If not, please contact us again. Happy building

      • @teetee580 hahaha i tested it out on a painted kit, i used a super fine gundam panel liner marker. grey. and the pour type also grey. it worked… for the most part, but when cleaning it up… i used 91% isopropyl alcohol, and after a few wipes it started to dull my paint. i think this might be because it was a matte clear coat? so i think im going to try the clear gloss coat, panel line it… then do that matte coat?

        • @X,
          Before panel lining and decal always use a gloss coat. Gloss has no pigment in it which will result in a smooth surface, resulting in better flowing of the ink of the marker and no silvering of the decals because no water can get trapped underneath the decals.
          A matte coat has some pigment in it which “floats” on the surface of the coat thus resulting in a rough surface. This can cause in rubbing alcohol getting between the crevasses of the matte coat causing a dull effect by dissolving it.
          But more likely the matte coat you used is acrylic…? If that is the case, rubbing alcohol will dissolve it somewhat, resulting in a dull finish. I’ll take it that you let the matte coat cure for at least 24 hours…?
          If the gloss clear which you are planning to use is also an acrylic based one, the same problem will occur.
          The best way to solve this is using a lacquer based top coat. This being the most aggressive yet strongest of all paints one can use spray the first two initial coats very lightly on. A very fine mist at 12 inches or 30 centimeter of the parts will almost dry the paint mid-air giving it not much time to eat through your paint before drying completely. Keep 15 to 30 minutes between the first two layers of clear and an hour before applying the last coat, which can be a thick coat covering the part completely.
          Hope this helps you out, if not, you know where to find me. LOL. Happy building