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To be honest, I wouldn’t do it like that. I reminds me of K.I.T.T. of the Night Rider series. And it doesn’t look like the builder use LED strips when seeing the angle of the LED’s in the arm. To me it looks like he drilled small holes to put them in.
If I where going to light up the psycho frame of the Nu, I would use the pegs which connects the clear green parts to the frame. Put a LED behind the peg in the frame. This will conduct the light trough the clear green part and spreading it across the entire length of it. Bandai uses this method for getting the eyes light up of newer MG via a LED in the chest.
Doing it this way means using less LED’s and hides them from plain side, which would be of great concern to me, as those LED’s on the surface look hideous when not operated in my opinion.
And since I read that soldering isn’t your cup of tea, it will be much easier.
Hope this helps you out a bit. Happy building

Thanks for your comment. I really needed the insight of an experienced builder. I completely agree with you on the aesthetics and yeah it would be much simple. I was already having headaches thinking about all the SMDs I would have had to put together. I was thinking about neon Optic Fiber, but I knew I would face problem due to the “Zig-Zag” of the arm.
I am gonna do as you said, but what about “Hot Spots”(the brighter spot where the LED is shining) when the Psychoframe is lit? Will a flat coat do to diffuse the light?

I was also thinking about a so called hot spot. Had that problem with the PG Red Frame, the LED provided by Bandai is right behind the “eyes”. And the LED in the PG is of course not as wide as the clear part for the eyes.
Because of the pegs on the clear green part for the psycho frame on the Nu are a few millimeters long my guess is that the hot spot will not be that notable.
If it is, the only way of getting rid of it is by matte coating that part where the peg is located and a few millimeters around that area.
An other way round this is by placing a second and third LED. I’m going to try explaining it without any pictures, so please bear with me… The peg on the clear green part is mostly located in the middle. If you divide the two part left and right of it in two and place extra LED’s on those parts. Also by drilling a small hole in the frame.
A hot spot for the initial LED’s will be larger then the size of the pegs. In doing so the hot spot of the second and third LED will make it the initial LED hot spot not noticeable.
On very small clear green part the hot spot will not be noticeable at all.
If I had to choose between the two options, I’d go for the last one. A bit more time consuming but I’m certain it will look awesome.
And when you are going into LED customization, you’re an experienced builder in my book! If you have any more questions, just give a buzz. Please keep us informed on your progress. Happy building!

Im in the panning stages for something along the lines of “lighting up” the psycho frame on the nu. ive done a little bit of testing and have gotten the best results using something similar to what @teetee580 mentioned with backlighting the pegs. The only difference is i plan on mounting the LEDs long the edge of the frame part (perpendicular to the viewing surface) to illuminate the whole piece with only one or two LEDs. Lots of plastic cutting and the kit becomes a brick to some extent due to wires limiting articulation. But its a pretty brick 🙂 i’ll be posting pics once i start up on the kit, though i do have quite the back log that i am working through

What kind of wires are you using??I will be using polyurethane covered copper hair like thin wires. A tiny hole will be enough to thread all the wires. I don’t think it will brick my kit! It will be such a shame to do that to this kit!!
Do post pics!Am putting 23 LEDs on the MG Sinanju. If it doesn’t become a brick kit then am good to go on this Nu ver KA.

Will be checking for updates!As for bricking my kit,I don’t think so-am gonna use PE coated copper coil wires that are thin as hair! So a tiny hole will do for all the wires to go through and it will cause less interference with articulation!

@Hellvin, maybe something you already know, but even if you are using a very small wire, it could hinder the movement of the Nu if the wires are too short. For e.g. the arms, measure the length of the wire you need to use in a bent position. If you should measure in a straight position, it will come out too short, thus hindering the flexibility.
@drAlnbAmAgE, Thanks for getting into this and helping a fellow builder out. Curious on how you are going to do the LED’s. Please keep us updated on your progress. Happy building!

@teetee580, yep I know, but still thanks for telling me just to make sure, there may me obvious things am not aware of.