Drastic77

you need a flexible paint. latex paint should do the trick. ive never used latex on gunpla before but it is a flexible paint so it should flex without cracking. nice doga btw, looking very sharp

Latex paint will work, but you may not get the desired effect you want if you intention is to get a metallic look. If you want them to look more metallic, I suggest getting some after market metal detail parts.

Do you plan to make the psychoframe light up? I think this color combination will look really great!

i do plan to use white LED’s to illuminate the psychoframe panels. the white seems to make the green plastic look better than green LEDs that ive tried so far. ive done some experimenting and ive got some good plans for this build.

reminds me of the karaba colors that lupes did lol looks nice though

It will be a very original scheme. if it works out anything like your sazabi ver ka. it will be a very impresive model.

Is your airbrush new or used ?
genreal advices:
-clean the airbrush before first use if you bought it used
-give the primer bottle a good-long shake before using
-thin the vallejo primer a little (with vallejo thinner): few drops of thiner every 4 ml primer is a good starting point

I’m sorry, but I have to disagree on that last note. Never ever thin down the Valleo primer! This is where things turn really sour.
It almost looks to me like there is a foreign substance in the airbrush that mixed with the primer.
One very important thing, do you have a moisture/water trap on the compressor? It looks like they are water…[Read more]

thats the “fish eyes” problem wht happens is when ur painting as the paint comes out of the airbrush the paint is drying before its hitting the surface of the paint. wht is ur thinning ratio for the acrylic primer that could be the reason

are actual bubbles forming when you spray the paint? if so then it maybe something as simple as you holding the airbrush too close.

Thanks everyone for the help. I believe it will be a mix of a new airbrush, not being cleaned first. and holding it a bit close.

Looks great, was it hard to install these LEDs? I’m thinking about trying out some in future but I’d have to decide on a kit first haha.

That looks great man. funny that your next project is the nu ver ka since i will be building that one next myself and i plan on some serious LED work and a custom paint job. i think ive decided on the pink and green scheme for it. im looking forward to see your progress on the nu.

@Nick, no it wasn’t hard to install the LEDs, infact it was fun-I used a 12V GP 23AE battery to test each group of LEDs. I didn’t solder the connections but used conductive glue after having coiled the ends of wires tightly, then I dropped power glue to strengthen the bonds. I also bonded part of wires to the frame so that there is no stress on…[Read more]

Wow thanks for that. I’m thinking about using an HGUC Unicorn (unicorn mode) for this, mainly putting one in the head and one on each backpack thruster. Do you think that this would be any more difficult being smaller with no inner frame? Or easier being mostly hollow?

Infact this was supposed to prepare me to build the Nu ver ka. I was thinking about putting much more LEDs in the Nu, but now I am thinking on how to put minimum LEDs. The psychoframe should be “glowing” and not lighting up like like a christmas tree. I want to achieve the same glowing effect as when blacklight is used-a homogenous glow.

I haven’t built an HG, but if it is hollow, yeah, it’ll be easier to place the LEDs and not many will be required for the psychoframe. But as for the thrusters you will have to look for 1 or 2mm colored LED as the 3mm will be too big.
Am sure you’ll make an awesome work. Do post your work.

Thanks for the help, this’ll be a while away but I’m starting planning now.