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I’m thinking really hard on this. As for now, I can only think of two solutions. And that depends on when you want them to light up.
The first option is when you want to get them light up on the backpack and still want them to be able to be taken off. You could make copper contacts in the “c” hook on the backpack to make contact with the funnels. The copper contacts on the “c” hook can be fed from the backpack using thin wires that go along side the hook by carving a channel in it, or them if you have the double setup. Then just place two other copper contacts in the fin funnel that connect to the wires to feed the LED’s in them. Or just apply some solder to the end of the wires, as long as they make good contact with the copper on the “c” hook. You could use this way to make contact between the funnel next to the first funnel and so on. The only problem with this, what I can think of, is the weight. But if you use rather thick copper contact going out of the first funnel, or the second one, you could use it to slide in the next funnel and keep it in place. I hope this makes sense to you.
The second way is when you want the funnels to light up as they aren’t attached. Come to think of it, you could use the same method as before, and just use some wires and place them on the stand attachments. One end connecting to the “c” hook or the last funnel on the backpack and then to the funnel which is “in flight”. An other way to achieve this is by using really tiny batteries. Like the ones they use in those aftermarket beam sabers sold on E-Bay. I don’t know the size of them, nor have them, but I take it they are really tiny and that they sell them somewhere. I think they also are used in hearing aides. This will also make the funnels a bit on the heavy side. And when attached to the backpack along side each other they have the tendency to fall off. Even if the are not altered. It’s just a weak connection between the funnels. This can be solved several ways. But in your case, I would drill little holes on the side of then where the teeth are (the original connections) and use a brass rod or even a thick solid copper wire and stick them in the holes. This will hold them in place and they can be taken out as soon as you disconnect them from each other, this can also be used to make the electrical contact between the funnel should you choose the first option in feeding the LED’s. I hope this gives you some ideas on how to go about it. This all comes to me on the fly, so I hope it all makes a little sense. And I’m open for discussion of course so we can iron out some issues on the subject. Good luck and please keep in touch

Wow the build was awesome. I only built the PG Astray and the Nu ver ka sure felt like PG with all the layers in the frame.
I have put LEDs in the torso and arms. Now working on the legs. The arms were frustrating-very limited space and it was impossible to disassemble the forearms without breaking the armor piece. And after all my efforts I couldn’t keep the transformation gimmick.
The SMDs had to be put perpendicular to the clear pieces,putting it at the back didn’t give a niece glow. And lastly am sad I discovered this too late-I should have used UV SMDs instead of green ones. When the UV light shines through the clear pieces it gives a cool “opaque” and uniform glow to the pieces.

As a sidenote that makes me think that it’s not impossible to make the PG Unicorn light up green. The clear red pieces just need to be transparent and the LEDs need to glow Purple(UV) for opaque red and green.