Gonna try to finish HG Aegis tonight so I can top coat tomorrow. Then will piece together the Blitz now that it’s finally dried. Hopefully tomorrow is nice and dry and I can consider testing some paint for one of my other kits. View
1/144 Takemikazuchi Type-00A – fully painted, this kit requires a fair amount of masking and detailed brush painting, it’s actually harder than making an MG in my opinion.
It was a tiny spot of gaia fluorescent paint, so a composite picture that stacked a normal photo, and another photo with UV light shined on it to reflect the blue light. 1/144 Takemikazuchi doesn’t have too much room for even a 1.5mm LED.
ya 1/144 is quite difficult with many parts requiring reverse wash and small spots to hand painting, the shoulder, stomach, fists, feet and waist section came entirely white so had to do a lot of reverse wash like sinanju gold trims.
I’d suggest using a epoxy putty, like “The Green Stuff”. It is a putty made out of two compounds which you have to mix. It contains a “filler” and “hardener”.
You could apply it directly to the piece, sculpt it to the desired shape and when cured sand it down.
With this method, there is no need for a super glue to adhere it to a part, but can be…[Read more]
I just did some research on this a couple months ago, heres what i found:
I kept seeing this ‘yellow’ putty substance they would fill in the voids in HG kits with, and create simple parts, In Hobby Japan magazine. I google-translated several pages until it became clear it was called ‘polyester putty’ It seems they have Tamiya Polyester Putty,…[Read more]
Hey guys — we’re excited that you’re all so excited about the MEGA-SIZE giveaway this time on Gunpla TV! We’ve been noticing a lot of repeat commenters, though. Please be courteous to the community and the other builders who want to win just as badly as you do, and refrain from posting excessive comments to increase your chances of winning.
As…[Read more]
You are absolutely right, but I’m afraid 90% of the ones that post a comment on the episodes never ever post or read something on this blog 🙁 So I think it would be better to refer to this problem (again) in an episode of Gunpla TV. Take care
This is my progress so far on my Mg Sandrock. This is the first gundam model I have ever painted! (apart from my Mg exia which I clear coated last week). Thought there was a bit too much white on Sandrock, so decided to add some sand colour. What do ya think? Lining, stickers, flat coat and maybe some silver scratches to come!
what does primer do exactly? and do they come pre thinned or do you have to thin it yourself? Also for thinning paint is it normally done with 3:1 ratio?
Actually, primer is something that is supposed to help the paint adhere to whatever surface you are painting. It can come in various colors. The usual colors are black, white, and grey. Vallejo’s line of primers come in many other colors.
When priming a surface, it is ideal to let the primer cure for several hours (12-24 is ideal) before adding…[Read more]
Please take note that some automotive primers will NOT adhere to plastics, especially ABS!
A good indication for this, if the same brand sell special primer for plastics!
And Vallejo primers can be very tricky to work with….
But to answer your question, most primers on’t need to be diluted. But this depends on the brand and type you use.
As for…[Read more]
If you want to panel line a painted kit is it necessary to apply a topcoat over the paint and then add the panel lines or can I just fill the panel lines directly on the paint.
p.s. Been using regular tamiya spraycans for painting and will be using the gundam panelwash marker.
If the paint went on really smooth, you could do the panel lining on top of the paint, since the Tamiya spray cans are lacquer based and the Gundam Markers are water based. If the paint is a bit grainy, you could have some difficulties removing the excess.
When planning on doing a top coat over the panel lines and paint job, make sure the panel…[Read more]
Got to say this Dark of the Moon Bumblebee was the most complicated Takara Tomy kit I’ve ever built. All parts were factory colored, the inner frame was factory built & the markings were factory applied. I repainted most everything except the body & clear parts, panel lined, weathered & sealed the kit with different sheens of clear coats.
This Metal Armor Dragonar Type 2 Custom Dragonar was engineered the same way as Type 1, the white one I built. No putty, sanding, priming & shading. I airbrushed, masked, panel lined, weathered & sealed the kit.
Another Metal Armor Dragonar by Bandai is similar to non grade or first grade. This kit was snap fitting & color molded with stickers & polycap joints. Limited articulation. Individual fist for each weapon. I built first, applied putty, sanded, primed, airbrushed, masked, shaded, panel lined, weathered & sealed the kit.
Totally awesome splatter paint job!
Did you install an LED in the head as well? it really pops in this picture. Great work, this looks astounding!
thanks 🙂 wasted so much red and black paint during the process
It was a tiny spot of gaia fluorescent paint, so a composite picture that stacked a normal photo, and another photo with UV light shined on it to reflect the blue light. 1/144 Takemikazuchi doesn’t have too much room for even a 1.5mm LED.
wow great effort on a 1/144 kit , I prefer the none scale which is 1/100 i believe
ya 1/144 is quite difficult with many parts requiring reverse wash and small spots to hand painting, the shoulder, stomach, fists, feet and waist section came entirely white so had to do a lot of reverse wash like sinanju gold trims.
omg, i love the blood-stained/spattered effect from cutting up BETAs!!!
ha ya it’s a no-return process, if u fail u repaint the whole piece