Skull Leader

A bit hard to understand some one what your saying, but i may have the gist of it.

By shape, I’m assuming you mean the shape of the cutting head. All side cutters have the angled side, which leads into the cutter edge. The other side can either be flat, or curved. Flat style cutters will let you get as close the piece as you can when removing…[Read more]

There are many types of side cutters, which make it difficult to explain.
Some brands state the hardness of the blade, the higher the number, the harder the blades, the longer they stay sharp, therefor the longer the lifespan.
Other brands state how sharp the blade is, again, the higher the number, the sharper the blade. This will not give you the…[Read more]

nevermind guys i think im good srry lololol

It’s basically a rubbing compound, like those you would use on an actual car. Think of it as like a liquid sandpaper. It’s purpose is to remove marks on a surface, and leave it looking better then it previously was. This video should help you out.

i srsly dont recomend testor as it is the crappiest paint ive ever used in my life time of gundams it killed my panel lining it takes forever to dry and its not that cheap its a pretty small bottle and its a pretty small bottle of thinner too id recomend tamiya enamels or modelmaster but if u want u could use other different painted like laquer…[Read more]

They will work on any plastic model kit 🙂

The amount of coats depends on the paints you use and the colour of the plastic. For example, white paint will only need about 2 coats on white plastic but if it were to be painted on blue it may need 3 to stop the blue coming through the white. As a rule of thumb keep applying thin coats until you’ve got a solid colour.

I like to paint pieces…[Read more]

I always spray the parts individually, when spraying on the runners, you’ll be left with gate marks, these can be touched up by using a brush, but will never the less leave indications on where the part was on the runner. Or you have to be willing to sand those area’s down, taking a lot of time, and if not careful sanding of paint on certain…[Read more]

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Dual-action/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416262989&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush
this link should be good if your getting ur first airbrush honestly i wouldnt spend too much on ur first one its easier to get a cheaper one play with it for a while then get something expensive like…[Read more]

There is no reason not to buy a good airbrush right away. And mind you, expensive doesn’t always mean good. And breaking an airbrush….? There are two weak things on an airbrush and those are the needle and the nozzle. As long as you take care in not bending the needle or over torque the nozzle, you’ll be fine.
In buying an airbrush, the first…[Read more]

I’d suggest going with a single action airbrush first. a dual or double action airbrush is just an added complication you don’t need to be dealing with, though when you’re more comfortable with airbrushing then you may want to go get a double action it’ll give you better control of the paint and airflow. Other than that you definitely want to…[Read more]

one way you can try is to wet the line first. It is sitting there because of water tension. It should run after you wet the line.
Depending on the surface, it is also easy to paint the line directly then clean off the surface.

1. you can tell if you using a water slide if the back ground of the paper is blue and when the back of the paper feels like normal paper but the front feels waxy
dry rub on they always have like some extra wax paper on the back of it for you to take off so it doesnt stick to any other suface before being applied onand they have a clear…[Read more]

then what do i do if i start seeing bubbles formed on the painted area when dried,