Skull Leader

There is a rather recent post on this in this section. It was by FierceSmurf.
It may contain all the info you need. And there are lots and lots of tutorials on YouTube on how to use and clean an airbrush.
But make sure you set goals for what it is you want from your airbrush. This will give you a rough estimation of what kind of airbrush you’re…[Read more]

You could try the 1/144 fully poseable hands. Here is are links to them at HLJ:
http://www.hlj.com/product/YLSPPC-TN85/Sci
http://www.hlj.com/product/YLSPPC-T94/Sci
One is for square ones, the other for round hands.
Hope this is of some help

You could also try the builder’s parts hands. They’re static poses, but they have an open hand, closed hand, and trigger finger hand. They’re really nice looking, and come in styles for zeon and federation style MS, as well as small and large versions for both 1/144th and 1/100 scale. When i say they’re nice looking though, i mean they’re nice…[Read more]

The MG Nu Ver.Ka., the MG Hi-Nu Ver.Ka., the R/E100 Nightingale, the MG Sazabi Ver.Ka., the MG Gundam RX 78-2 ver. 3.0, the MG Geara Doga, the MG Jesta, the MG 00 Raiser, the MG 00 Seven Sword, the MG 00 Qan(T), the MG Gundam Exia Ignition Mode, the MG Gundam Exia (and the Trans Am Mode), the MG GN-X, the MG RX 75 Guntank. and the MG RMS-108…[Read more]

Forgot to mention that the parts are from the inner frame , some have a base coat others don`t

use a top coat over it i had the problem the first time so just get future pledge top coat that stuff is the greatest protection over ur kits

If you want to have the color stay matte/flat, you definitely shouldn’t use “Future Pledge” as this gives the paint a gloss coat. In other words, the flat black paint will turn into a gloss black.
If you used a enamel paint, let it cure for 3 to 4 days. Enamels take long to cure, but are very scratch resistant.
Lacquer paints are tough too and…[Read more]

I take it that is Fahrenheit…? We don’t all live in the US…. As long as the humidity isn’t above 70 percent you should be fine. Just takes longer to dry and cure

That’s actually not a good idea, as that’s freezing. I suggest finding an indoor area that you can keep above 40 degrees. under 40 degrees, and the paint can start to crystalize, and fracture, and even freeze. If you are going to do it, I suggest you keep the cans indoors, go out, spray the spray the part, and the immediately take the part inside…[Read more]

Normally they are designed for 1/144 kits. For the hangars and trucks, you could get away by using it for a small MG, like the Wing kits, but even then, they will be on the large side.
As for the hands from M.S.G. line, it is designated on the package they are to be used with 1/114 models.
I hope this answers your question

Just took another look at the M.S.G. parts, there are some other parts like “verniers” and such, these can be added to a kit of your hearts content of course….

you can either try tamiya or any hardware shop.. I usually buy at the hardware shop and they work fine. Plus I also use the diamond files that I bought at the hardware shop..They works great

It doesn’t state what grid it is anywhere, but my guess is, that it is a buffing compound sort of grid. I think it’s more in the range of 8000 to 10000 grid. 2000 grid will still leave some teeny scratches….

did a bit of digging and apparently above 3000 grit you’re looking at specialty items. I have also found that jewelers use even high grits though honestly I don’t think you should bother trying to find anything beyond the 2000 you’re likely to find at any automotive or hardware store. also I’d go for a wet/dry sandpaper. That’s something you…[Read more]

Flory models and UMP both out of the UK o fantastic sanding sticks (and washes)

Yup..same here..I thought their sale is like last year and I’m planning on getting two other PG as the unicorn is already preordered the..for your questions..nope they dont have any Christmas sale as the black friday is their Christmas sale .

Xmas as not as big in Japan as it is in North America or Europe but I do remember a New Year sale at one point.

take ur old shirt that has holes in it and just cut some of it out

An old shirt can work, however unless you want the material to constantly flay and apart, then i suggest not using a an old shirt. Instead get a pair of old slacks, like some dockers, and use that. If you was to keep the end’s from falling apart, you can use some iron patches(which you can get in the fabric section of any crafts store) to fix…[Read more]

Thanks for the help

You could try Samuel Decal. They have a wide range of decal sheets. If not, you could always scan the decal sheet that is printed on the last page of the manual and mail it to them. They can print it out for you no problem

You’re welcome. Glad I could help. I don’t know about that. You could mail them with your question. Maybe they won’t, as some costume orders end up in their catalog. Good luck

It’s possible. It normally depends on shade of the color itself, plus the coating. If it’s a particularly bright color, a single coat can appear darker then intended. Just give it another coat, and if that doesn’t solve your problem, then it’s an issue the paint. Either you managed to get a bad batch, or the paint you’re using is too translucent.

I had that problem twice in the past. Not with Tamiya spray cans, but an other brand. The paint cans probably got frozen and the pigments starts shifting. At first I thought I didn’t shake them well enough. The last quarter of the can the color was fine. The first three quarter the color that came out was a lighter and duller version of the paint.…[Read more]

I’m assuming you mean to panel line(and possibly weather) the kit. Very easy problem to solve. Just get top coat the kit with a gloss coat that wont dull or over power the shine of the gold. basically, get varying degrees of gloss coat, and test them on the empty runners(or any extra parts). keep track of which is which, and you’ll know which…[Read more]

thanks for the tips…might try the gloss top coat cause I want to add the appropriate lining and detailing.

cut first and build it and then take it off again..to make things easier gut the male connection 45 degrees to hinder breaking any parts. if you dont wash your runner then prime it first..the paint wont chipped easily…if you read the manual carefully its easy to assemble it back without knowing the parts number

depends on what you want out of your kit. if you want it painted but you don’t want to spend a lot of time on it then you spray on the runners and do touch ups later. pretty much that’d be the quick and dirty method. when you want paint with a perfect finish and no touch up work, or as little as possible, you gotta do it in pieces, What I…[Read more]

The best extra finish if you would paint it black gloss and then metallic silver and last is the clear blue..you would not get metallic blue but you would get a titanium finish

When you’re wanting a true metallic finish, sadly metallic paint isn’t the answer. The reason for this is because metallic paints are actually just a regular paint color with metal flakes in it. The best way to so, is like described above. Use a good silver paint, notably a silver chrome, and then go over that with a clear blue/green/red/etc. This…[Read more]