Sorry if this has been asked before; I suck at using the search function on this site. 🙁
New to gunpla here, and I was wondering if the white on all the Gundam kits yellow with age? All the kits I’ve made are unpainted and I only started to worry about this after making my PG Unicorn and then ordering the Full Armor later; is there any chance…[Read more]
As far as I can recollect, this hasn’t been asked before and if it is, no worries 😉
The problem is, yellow is the dominant color in the color spectrum. The plasticisers in plastic will attract sun rays and collect the yellow rays, oddly enough…
Even indirect sunlight might discolor the plastic overtime. The only option is to use a clear coat.…[Read more]
Just a further query though. I see a lot of different types of coats on the shelves like lacquer, enamel and acrylic coats. If I paint my kit with acrylics, then is there any rule that I must use an acrylic coat and not a lacquer/enamel one?
Yeah, they are BANDAI kits. Thank you again; was beginning to think I…[Read more]
In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]
It looks like it is behaving like the Vallejo primer, it then surely will harden in the course of a few days. That’s great to hear, no need for crazy or elaborate solutions which may cause more damage then good.
Should you need any more advice, please let us know 😉
Good luck and happy building!
So found something interesting and weird. So during the 1970’s -1980’s, the South Korean government created a ban of Japanese Media. As a result, there were a lot of “Innovative” cartoons made. One of them is called Black Space Knight. Do you guys recognize any familiar masked figure.
I’ve finally joined the airbrush master race! I’m going to buy paints and thinners, then it’s time to practice just on paper.
I’m thinking of starting with lacquer paints, any…
i used the good old fashion tamiyas but prob with that stuff it scratches easily so you have to pledge it and wait a while but spraying with laquers dont forget to wear a gas mask that stuff is toxic but have fun with it keep a good distance away from the parts not too close or ull overspray n not too far so u cant do any good precise painting
Was that Tamiya Acrylic? My local hobby shop has a decent selection of them but I don’t know if you need to thin acrylic like you would for lacquer paints.
Thanks for the tips for spraying, I’ll be sure to keep them in mind when I’m setting up.
Finally, Nick has joined the party!!! 😛 Congratulations on your purchase!
The Tamiya acrylic paints need to be thinned. You can use X-20A or Isopropanol Alcohol. If you choose to use the latter one, make sure it’s at least 90%.
All paints scratch, so it is advisable to clear all paints….
There is no problem in using enamels in the airbrush,…[Read more]
Thinners…. As I read it. I got alot of problems during my past projects. Using Vallejo acryliccolors, i thought using thinner and cleaner from Vallejo should be an emprovement to just using water. But i figured, that thinner and cleaner kinda reacts with water, causing a total block of the colorflow inside the pistol. Just using water, I have no…[Read more]
I’m pretty rough when it comes to airbrushing. $30NZD airbrush sets and a nice medium sized cheap chinese compressor. I decant tamiya spray cans into the hopper and it stretches out the cost of the cans as they can be expensive. The outcome isn’t bad and it’s great for experimenting. I use a strong Resene paint stripper for cleaner for all types…[Read more]
For what it’s worth – I use a wide range of paint types in a lot of different applications which includes fine scale modeling/gunpla. I almost always use the thinner and paint from the same brand. I find that works the best for me. I use enamel a lot for base coats – needs a good long time to dry and needs a sealing top coat if you are going to…[Read more]
It depends what brand/type of primer you have. Some don’t need to be thinned.
If you got primer by Tamiya (just a wild guess) you need to thin it with cellulose thinner. Any kind will do. You can get the expensive one by Mr. Hobby (the bottle with the blue label), the even more expensive one by Mr Hobby which contains a retarder (blue label with…[Read more]
Just as a precaution, the flat base from Tamiya needs to be mixed with a paint or a clear gloss to get a flat finish. These need to be thinned with X20-A or Isopropanol Alcohol (rubbing alcohol >90%).
Hey guys, here’s just one of the many kits I’ve completed. For right now I’m just building, panel lining and adding decals to kits. Looking to start painting and customizing future kits.