In my experience, the nozzle tends to clog up very easily. So you might want to clean it off after every use. Shake it well for a good 2-5 mins, and natually do the the light coat method. Enamel from cans can build up in layers and pool extremely easily.
Light coats would be best. Enamel paint can be pretty thick when it dries, and it’s very easy to pool the stuff up when using a can. And I’d spray around 8 inches away. If you feel like it’s covering to much to fast, you can always adjust.
The HGUC Kshatriya. It’s been quite a while since I attempted to build a HG. The nubs are rather troublesome, though this kit is special. Sanding the nubs down is giving me a lot of trouble. I keep sanding divots in the plastic and it just bothers me. It makes me want to make another one after my skills have improved.
Yeah, I’ve done that before myself. It gets really annoying. I hope that you have some good luck with the reverse wash. It certainly does the job well.
Thanks. Do you have any trick to avoid sanding divots in the plastic? I’ve been doing that ever since I started sanding nubs, and it’s really getting old.
Thanks, man! The details on the parts are actually a lot smaller than I originally thought it would be.
I normally use 400 grit til I get down close to the main part. Then I switch to 800 to smooth our the rest. Then to 1500 to take the roughness away. I normally try to keep a close eye on the nub when I start getting really close to the plastic. Taking a few strokes at a time til it’s almost flush, then get the rest with the 800.
Sanding down nubs takes practice. I’m still working on it myself. Often, I find myself having to sand down even more of the part to cover up a prior mistake of sanding down the nub area too much.
Yep, the most tedious part of painting kits. The dreaded sanding. Aye, I don’t miss it. haha. Got any pics? Or are you just prepping the parts? And are you going to paint the whole kit?
I have a question about the paint you used if you don’t mind asking. If I wanted to go for something like that, say on the Unicorns psycoframe, what paint would you recommend? Otherwise, I say you did a damn good job!
WIP6 on the GuP Pz IV. Just got Saori and Miho roughly sculpted. Will wait till I got the 5 girls together before refining the details and sand them smooth.
What is a good alternative to Mr. mark softer and MicroSol? I don’t want to use vinegar. I’ve heard that Windex works but I’m not sure it that’s true or not.
okie, this is just personal exp but, i’ve actually been having some decent luck using future.
i wet the spot first with future, then position the seal (sticker or waterslide), then once in position i dab it down with a bit more, making sure to get along any edges, as the future auto levels, it seems to fill in the edges, pretty much making them vanish.
I not sure about MicroSol, you might want to do some search on it.
Mark Softer. It work best with mark setter. This is the way how I do it, and I not sure others.
1. Wet the surface, lay your decal on the surface.
2. careful clear the water on the surface and under the decal with a saber brush.
3. then comb…[Read more]
Hello everyone I have a question:
I read on the net that Mr Color is a special type of acrylic paint and should be thinned with Mr Color thinner. I have some pots of this brand of paint that I didn’t used yet.
I have only Tamiya’s acrylic thinner and my question is can I use this thinner with Mr Color paints?
Thanks in advance for the replies and…[Read more]
you can try it but I doubt it will work. Gunze, the maker of Mr.Color has different lines one of them is Mr Color Aqueous which is an acrylic paint, but the one normally reffered to as Mr.Color is a water based lacquer paint. if however what you do have is Mr Color Aqueous then I suppose it would work, the problem is I have no idea how to tell…[Read more]
It’s Gundam Color pots. I can read Japanese but nothing about the nature of the paint is written on it.
It only says that it’s semi gloss and has some numbers on it, for instance the blue is “Blue 17” and “CG72”.
Gundam color by Mr. Hobby are all lacquer base. But with more experience modeler, they can see there are normal paint color also a gundam color except normal color is lot more cheaper than Gundam color, lol.
And no, Mr. Hobby Acrylic is nothing special, they don’t need special thinner too. It just a market business. You can thinned down with any…[Read more]
no idea about the water slides but for the future releases, well we won’t know for sure until they make announcements, but we can look at trends and so looking at what’s been released so far they’ve been releaseing kits from seed and seed destiny as well as from the original UC timeline. That said we have…[Read more]
Thanks for the information. I was asking about the decals because I used water slides on my RG RX-78, and stickers on my RG Freedom, and as I have an Aile Strike coming in the post, I’d much prefer the water slides, but I can’t seem to find any anywhere.
In regards to the anime, I don’t know anything really about Seed and Seed Destiny. I know the…[Read more]
I only mentioned Seed and Seed Destiny because those are the MS’s that are being released in RG and you asked about what might be upcoming, there’s no need for you to know the anime itself only that those are the names of the main character’s Gundams which is how I came to my guess, basically I was just giving the reasons behind my guess, sorry…[Read more]
Syd, I was watching the music video “nibun no ichi” by Back-On which is the opening song for Gundam Build Fighters. At the end they had this photo of the Freedom in the Plavsky Particle Clear Version model. Is this something special like a promotion or an upcoming kit? Looks really good
I think im halfway there even if I finished all the main t¿parts for the kit, there are still lots of work to do like a gazilion decals, two ghosts (I builded one to see where they neded to be painted) some panel lining, light wethering and the clear top coat
I need some help guys. One of the peg that allow armor split on my RG GP01 Fb just snapped. I mod the peg a bit just to put it back in his place. But now, I can’t even do an 135 decree knee bent. What should I do?
there’s a few ways to go about this situation. You could replace the part which is easier said than done outside of japan. You could find a pose you really like and glue it into that pose. You could attempt a repair, judging from the pic you posted pinning maybe the way to go. you can just live with it. or the final option You could turn your…[Read more]
I could but it’s for the beginner section of the competition. So, I can’t rly mod. Therefore, it’s costy to buy a drill and the metal rod to fix it. I’m rly not sure of it cuz that plastic is weak.
if what I’m seeing is true it looks like the Bandai Premium shop will start taking orders for that on September 25th. Guess we’ll find out more then. I actually looked on their site today after seeing this image and couldn’t find it.
What’s the URL? The site you show in the picture is not what I see. And doing a search for that kit in your picture only brings up the X2 and some figures.
ah. there it is. I was just going to p-bandai.jp and looking from there. I also realize now why the search didn’t bring up anything. The item appears there but is not a clickable link. Once they put the page up, searches will bring it up. Should be good, but I’m not finished my X2 yet.
It was the first time for me to transform a Valkyrie, and I did not do it quite right 🙂 I’m hoping to bring the Valkyrie on the show again and give it some real justice as it is freaking awesome!
nice ryan good job had a question though. like you this was robotech which i saw around the mid to late 90s. my question to you is this in episode 29 if i heard right yamato went out of business? is there any way to get those or is this macross just is same as a yamato? i happen to be looking for either the rick hunter one or skull one
Ditto on the music, ridiculous lol.
In answer to Syd’s question about managing to watch all the Gunpla TV eps, I work odd hours, and was house sitting for 2wks with no real place to do any hobby, no computer and my nephew’s Xbox wasn’t working. I watched a lot of them on my phone. Yes I have no life, arrgh!!!!
I had fun building it and like how it looks. I would just say that if you buy it don’t expect the transformations to be all that great. I was a little disappointed in how it transforms. I plan on leaving it in fighter mode for display. If I build more Macross kits I will probably do one of the single mode (fighter) kits.
I remember back then seeing the Robotech series growing up, I much prefer the mech form/shape of the Gundams compared to the Macross kits. But saying that though, I LOVE the fighter mode and the Gerwalk(?) mode.
Nice work!!!
I cannot agree more with you, the macross trabnsformable kits are not that great, don´t get me wrong, it is an awesome gimmic, and there are some great works like yours out there, but this beeing a model kit, transformation is almost useless because of the damage the decals or paint will take, also, it sacrifices alot on how the…[Read more]
^^ same here! Probably one of my favourite kits that I’ve built. This one makes me want to pick up the other gundams from the seed series. I already have the aegis waiting. Hehe
Looks like you finally finish the decals..nice job..my 1st encounter with the dry transfer dont end well..some decals just made if half way on the surface :p
Haha, that looks pretty cool! At first i thought it was a suit from f90 from the thumbnail. I don’t see a problem with masking, all of those parts with color can be painted separately.
My question is for the lights on the shoulders, how will you deal with redoing the clear red parts?
Like your line art concept. Are you going to arm it with a variant of a proton pack? If so which variant are you going to go for? Classic or Extreme? In addition will you also go for a ghost trap for it?
Hi guys, I’m a complete and utter N00B when it comes to building Gunpla and other model kits in general, so I was hoping that some of you would be able to answer some of my questions!
1: Flat Coating
I have to do spray painting outside, and the temperatures where I live now can range from around 4-16 celsius. Would that be too cold for clear…[Read more]
You could use that knife, but it’s not really the right tool for the job. If you can’t get a special craft knife, medical scalpels also work very well and art shops tend to stock them, and being re-purposed medical equipment they’re cheap. A good pair of snips is also worthwhile too. After trimming the nub, a bit of good sandpaper goes a long way…[Read more]
X-acto knives are like a dollar a piece. Don’t know about refills on the thing but it’s hella cheap. I just bought a full set in a dollar store (well not exactly a dollar store but an equivalent)(foreigner alert) for about dollar fifty. It’s not that great and feels cheap but it’s better than a box cutter. Also it comes with a magnet. So wooo. I…[Read more]
You may find at that temperature, you will get some blotching/mottling. I too live in a cold climate and have issues with clear coating. Warm the can up in warm water (not hot!) and if you can spray indoors eg in the laundry or bathroom, it will make a difference (clear coat should be OK inside). If you have to spray outside, check it first on the…[Read more]
In my experience, the nozzle tends to clog up very easily. So you might want to clean it off after every use. Shake it well for a good 2-5 mins, and natually do the the light coat method. Enamel from cans can build up in layers and pool extremely easily.
Thanks. I should go in very light coats? Should I spray about twelve inches away?
Light coats would be best. Enamel paint can be pretty thick when it dries, and it’s very easy to pool the stuff up when using a can. And I’d spray around 8 inches away. If you feel like it’s covering to much to fast, you can always adjust.
What colors are you using?
Thanks, man! I’m using black for the reverse wash. Those darn sleeves are annoying.
Which kit are you working on might I ask?
The HGUC Kshatriya. It’s been quite a while since I attempted to build a HG. The nubs are rather troublesome, though this kit is special. Sanding the nubs down is giving me a lot of trouble. I keep sanding divots in the plastic and it just bothers me. It makes me want to make another one after my skills have improved.
Yeah, I’ve done that before myself. It gets really annoying. I hope that you have some good luck with the reverse wash. It certainly does the job well.
Thanks. Do you have any trick to avoid sanding divots in the plastic? I’ve been doing that ever since I started sanding nubs, and it’s really getting old.
Thanks, man! The details on the parts are actually a lot smaller than I originally thought it would be.
I normally use 400 grit til I get down close to the main part. Then I switch to 800 to smooth our the rest. Then to 1500 to take the roughness away. I normally try to keep a close eye on the nub when I start getting really close to the plastic. Taking a few strokes at a time til it’s almost flush, then get the rest with the 800.
And yeah, I’d say…[Read more]
Oh, yes indeed. That’s one of the reasons why I’ve stayed away from it. Thank you for the tips.
Sanding down nubs takes practice. I’m still working on it myself. Often, I find myself having to sand down even more of the part to cover up a prior mistake of sanding down the nub area too much.
Can take a looooong time to do, too.
Yes, indeed it can. I’ve spent thirty minutes on four parts, and they still don’t look perfect.
Yep, the most tedious part of painting kits. The dreaded sanding. Aye, I don’t miss it. haha. Got any pics? Or are you just prepping the parts? And are you going to paint the whole kit?
No way. I’m not going to repaint another kit for a WHILE. I’d rather enjoy this hobby than slave away in the garage.
I do have some pics if you like, though they aren’t very interesting, haha.
Can’t say I blame you there. If you got pics man post em up. I need to post some of the HG DX I’ve almost completed.
Sure, man. Will do.