Hi all. new here and to this layout of “forum”. have recently started getting into some Gundam etc figures but still to start my first build.
Regular customer of HLJ.
Check out my previous builds, WIP etc here http://webbynz.blogspot.co.nz/View
recently i picked up the unicorn gundam code 852 version
even though it is a stunningly beutiful kit, its not undergated so obviously i want to at least hide the nub marks alittle bit by adding a dash of gold on the nubs but my problem is what kind of gold would be close to the gold they have on the unicorn???
I’ve looked up some pictures of the “Hong Kong” Ver.Ka. Unicorn and it looks like a very light “gold” plating.
I would try a dot of silver and a tiny drop of clear yellow, not the normal mix of yellow and orange.
Before i knew of this mix, I used normal clear yellow on top of silver and it turned out really light instead of a, if you will, deeper…[Read more]
It looks similar to the gold on the Hyaku Shiki, maybe you could try to flat coat some regular Tamiya Gold leaf or Gold gundam Marker on a spare piece or empty runner from the 852, then see how the close the golds look.
Actually @teetee580 the gold is darker than u think its more of a hyaku shiki gold i thought that too when i saw it but i was wrong
Although trying it on the runner or something is a good idea to do thanks guys
The grand daddy of all Gundams is coming together bit by bit. It’s the Ver.2.0, liked it a bit more then the MG version of the RG, but that’s all just personal preference.
Next time some pictures of the completed model 😉
WOW!!!!!!!! looking awesome! you should’ve bought two kits so you could display one with just the frame and the amount of detail you’re putting into it. The completed kits is going to be a master piece man.
Thank you very much, you’re making me blush 🙂
Yes, it’s almost a shame to put the armor on the frame, hence I took a lot of pictures of it.
Fortunately the knees still shows some detailing, but maybe a kit with just half armored up is an idea…
Thanks again for your nice comment!
A bit late (almost finished the RX-78-2) but nevertheless, a few more kits for the backlog and my first Japanese hobby magazine 🙂 And some little small stuff, like extra verniers, mono eyes and action bases
Unfortunately one has to be able to read Japanese, although you can pick up a lot from the pictures. Not gonna spoil anything for you, but it is a very nice magazine!
Please do share some pictures when your package comes in
I also use clear coat as primer for my kits and hand paint details. I usually go for matte because I want to take away the plastic shine from my finished kit. I think the slightly textured finish brought about by matte coat also gives better adhesion for my acrylics (Vallejo model and/or game color) But that’s just my personal preference and observation.
If I may ask, why not use a normal dedicated primer? They are deigned for that specific job.
But if I had to choose, I’d go for the gloss one. A matte leaves a “gritty” finish which may come trough in your paint job. On the other hand, a gloss clear will leave the same effect as clear plastic, the surface gets really smooth, so I see no really…[Read more]
You really should use actual primer. Clear coat is intended to protect paint, and will not adhere to the bare plastic as well as primer. the only time you will normally be painting on top of clear coat, is when doing panel lines, washes, highlighting, etc. after which you’ll clear coat over that.
However, if you are set on not using primer,…[Read more]
In my case, I don’t have enough time to use an actual surface primer and color the whole kit. (I don’t have an airbrush either even if I had the time, so I can only hand brush the colors in.) So I use the clear matte to protect the decals and I use it as “primer” before I paint small details. Since I deal primarily with MGs, the color is almost…[Read more]
I would just go with washing the parts, because in the long run, it’s going to save you money as you’re not having to use as much clear coat on the kit. It’ll take more time to complete the kit, but saving money always equates to more stuff lol.
Haha! You have a good point there. More stuff is always better. 🙂 Anyway, I only use hardware-sold acrylic sprays on my kits to save. I know many people prefer those made for model kits like Tamiya or Mr. Hobby, but the hardware type I use is good enough for me.
Finished snap building this bad boy. Finally put the drei zwerg to use. This will get a full paint, water slide and battle damage treatment once I start to get the backlog cleared out
Hi guys, I’m looking for a file set that would help me remove nubs. I’m working on HGs and RGs if that helps. I also pain the HGs but, not the RGs. Would you happen to recommend a great file set (brand and model)
I’m currently using the Tamiya Basic File Set (Fine Double Cut). I find these come in handy for really big nubs or when sharpening a blade. The only down side is I have to use sand paper after using them. Even tough Tamiya states them to be “Fine Double Cut” they still are rather coarse
In other words, they remove nubs really quick, but expect to…[Read more]
I Just Completed 1/100 MG Gundam RX-78-2 Ver. 3.0… can anybody teach me how to paint the elbow and back of the knee in bronze color… and what kind of paint i will buy…
if i recall syd just painted sprayed the inside of the arm piece that u want bronze but the other leg id either use masking tape and cover up the rest u dont want bronze and spray up the parts u want bronze
but u could hand piant with enamels because enamals are good with detail since its thick just mix it with thinner to have a milky texture and…[Read more]
I handpaint Vallejo Game or Model Color Bronze or copper for it. But I usually spray the kit lightly with a matte coat first. (after decal work) Otherwise, the paint won’t adhere much on the bare plastic (even after de-greasing it).
I’ve looked up some pictures of the “Hong Kong” Ver.Ka. Unicorn and it looks like a very light “gold” plating.
I would try a dot of silver and a tiny drop of clear yellow, not the normal mix of yellow and orange.
Before i knew of this mix, I used normal clear yellow on top of silver and it turned out really light instead of a, if you will, deeper…[Read more]
It looks similar to the gold on the Hyaku Shiki, maybe you could try to flat coat some regular Tamiya Gold leaf or Gold gundam Marker on a spare piece or empty runner from the 852, then see how the close the golds look.
Actually @teetee580 the gold is darker than u think its more of a hyaku shiki gold i thought that too when i saw it but i was wrong
Although trying it on the runner or something is a good idea to do thanks guys