hey team quick question I have been using gundam marker for panel lines and I use a regular eraser when I make mistake and its been good for a long time. but now I started painting my kits with spray paint and when I make a mistake with panel lining erasing it take off the paint too. any suggestions?
There are two options for you.
-1 Get a Gundam Marker Eraser. It is a marker with a solution which dissolves the “paint” of the Gundam Marker. Can’t guarantee it won’t dissolve your other paint though. I suggest testing it out on an old part first.
-2 Get rid of the Gundam Markers and buy some enamels, a thinning agent and cottom swaps to do a pin…[Read more]
spray paints are usually enamel based right? (atleast the tamiya ones are) correct me if i’m wrong, you could put in a clear coat after spray painting to protect it when panel lining.
I normally use an airbrush with acrylic paints then use a spray clear top coat. then use tamiya panel line accent with are enamel based for panel lines. and just…[Read more]
no spray cans are usually not enamel based there are three different kinds of paint out there and spray cans can be laquer acrylic or enamel tamiya is laquer
The p800 (or 800 grid) is for finishing the sanding process prior to painting. In other words, it gives a smooth surface.
What I tend to do for cleaning nubs is; trim the nub down with a knife until there is only a fraction left, sanding the rest with p400, then p600 and lastly p800. Then I prime and paint the parts.
When not painting, even a…[Read more]
don’t know about better but the higher the number the finer the abrasive and the smoother the finish. On the other hand this also means it’ll be more work and go through your sandpaper faster trying to grind down big imperfections. In general you want to use the highest grit sandpaper that you can that will still grind away the imperfection you…[Read more]
like I said there isn’t a better. higher numbers are fore finer work, try grinding down a nub from the runner with p1000 sandpaper, then try it with p400 you’ll see that the p400 does it quite a bit faster with far less work. the higher number however will leave the smoother finish.
as for the difference between the numbers it’s basically the…[Read more]
So before I top coated any of my better kits, I tried it on an old hg, and the matt finish seems to have a blotchy look on the plastic. Anyone know why?
there’s probably a guide around but the basics are trimming the posts before assembly as was already mentioned. What the means is simply a 45 degree cut on the peg to make it easier to pull back apart. the other thing is that prying apart, and anything that can slip between the cracks and is sturdy enough will do, so yeah knife blades, though…[Read more]
i also recomend if u were to plan ahead and decided to paint the kit as u were building it dont assemble the stuff that is impossible to come out when ur trying to unassemble the gundam done that a few times not a pretty sight at all
yea i usually paint them up with some clear red if its pink to make it looks more darker and intimidating but ive tried turning a pink saber into a blue one with some metallic blue paint itll look nice too so whtever u want for a color change from red to whtedver color i suggest using metallics but if u wanna make it darker just use some clear red
If you really want a color change, it’s better to cast them in a different color yourself. You can get a resin casting set for rather cheap, as well as any other supplies you need. You can use that to make clear parts in pretty much any color you want. You can always paint them if you prefer, however painting them even with clear paint doesn’t…[Read more]
I think it’s different for everyone. mostly I think it’s just going about your everyday life when you see something and get to thinking, “hey what if?” and from that “what if” you go about your idea. it’s not really something that’s simple to explain cause it really could be anything. if you like a color maybe you just want to work it in then…[Read more]
personally i just throw some paint on a kit and hope it dosen’t look like crap. My Sazabi Ver Ka is the prime example. Im working on a custom color nu-gundam right now and im thinking about a color scheme for my hi-nu with the HWS. I’m thinking about replacing the purple with a burnt orange but im still in the planning process on that one.
Generally I’ll refrain from a full paint job on my Master grades, as the white plastic generally looks better then any white paint, lol. I will paint certain parts to fill in the areas that are the wrong color.
Other then that, custom paint jobs are related to whatever theme I’m going with. So generally, my kits will see mostly military style…[Read more]
for me i just think about the gundam and then look up online at some cool kits and then get an idea out of it usually i keep it in my mind and imagine it if it would look nice
research, for me I look some similar kits with customs paints online then if I’m not satisfied or something pop-up on my mind i will try the color scheme by providing a linework of the kit then photoshop to try the formulated color scheme. If the color scheme is bad on the photoshop, I will not continue the scheme then try another one.
If I were to get a Tallgeese, which one should I get???? Also what other MG should I do? I am currently waiting on my Blue Frame Second revise Astray to come in, and I just put together my first mg, the OVA color Sinanju. what should I order next? I am torn between the Sazabi ver. ka, and the Nu ver ka.
The easiest one to get which will also be the easiest on your wallet is Tallgeese 1, i’ve built that one and it’s quite fun, I just had to paint it because that white/light grey color combo sucks. I’d go with the Nu and save the sazabi for later
Nu has some teensy funnel issues but has the psychoframe gimmick which I like. Hi-Nu looks better in my opinion but there are waterslides for the two tone funnels which seem to fit better so I’d say……flip a coin because either is going to be a great build.
Well after cutting it from the runner, use your cutters to clip off the excess gate. From there you can use a file. always file in one direction, never back and forth, and try to keep the file straight and flat. A few passes should be enough to get the gate down and even with the rest of the part without scraping the rest of the part. from there…[Read more]
As for cleaning the nubs, Slater4u covered this excellent. He tells it how it is. I only suggest finishing sanding with a 1000 grid and use a 800 grid before that and after the 600 grid, since you’re not planning on painting and use Gundam Markers to get rid of the discoloration. A 600 grid still leaves scratch marks.
Also get the 800 and 1000 in…[Read more]
I recommend you do. Anything less then 800 will leave visible scratches, even when painting on the the area’s with Gundam markers. As the paint in the markers is really thin, they won’t fill up scratches. For a really good result I suggest even using a 1000 grid to get it really smooth.
And I forgot to mention in my last reply, for decals, water…[Read more]
About the upcoming MG Exia Dark Matter, do you think they’ve fixed the ankles on it? Pics shows that it’s the same ankle as the regular Exia. I might be wrong though but one can always hope.:) And also the P-Bandai exclusive MG Grey Zeta would that be based of xeta 2.0?
Primer is primaly use as a base so that paint sticks better. Other method is thoroughly was your runner using soap. Other than that is that when you prime all the imperfectness of the surface can be clearly seen and easily sand to get the perfect surface and end result.
for a metallic paint you want to lay down a gloss black before the actual metallic color you want, whether or not you use a primer before this I suppose could be considered optional but I’d do it. When working with gloss paints you can’t really do touch up work, it shows too much, and if you’re doing metallic you’re probably not going to want to…[Read more]
There are two options for you.
-1 Get a Gundam Marker Eraser. It is a marker with a solution which dissolves the “paint” of the Gundam Marker. Can’t guarantee it won’t dissolve your other paint though. I suggest testing it out on an old part first.
-2 Get rid of the Gundam Markers and buy some enamels, a thinning agent and cottom swaps to do a pin…[Read more]
spray paints are usually enamel based right? (atleast the tamiya ones are) correct me if i’m wrong, you could put in a clear coat after spray painting to protect it when panel lining.
I normally use an airbrush with acrylic paints then use a spray clear top coat. then use tamiya panel line accent with are enamel based for panel lines. and just…[Read more]
no spray cans are usually not enamel based there are three different kinds of paint out there and spray cans can be laquer acrylic or enamel tamiya is laquer