kazu

there are several options for you.
You could get the Builders Parts Hands by Bandai:
http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN976502/Gun
Or hands by Kotobukiya:
http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-28R/Sci
Or even some fully articulated hands by Hobby Base:
http://www.hlj.com/product/YLSPPC-TN80/Sci
The only thing being is that you would need to paint the back…[Read more]

top coat will affect the finish. either mask or take out parts that you don’t want affected. now for the unicorn, i believe it will be easy to just put it in unicorn mode and do the top coat if it’s too much trouble to disassemble and top coat the individual parts. i only do flat coats on armor parts of my kits and i leave the frame and metallic…[Read more]

The Unicorn in destroy mode is 39cm/12.5inch tall without the display base. The display base ads another 3.5cm/1.37inch.
The base is 28.5cm/11.13inch wide and 23.5cm/9.18inch deep (displayed with the Gatling guns on the sides)
I hope this answers your question

u may as well just suck it up and buy aclad paints its a pretty big bottle of primer
although the idea to get a primer for cheaper is good it may not be worthwhile since those hardware paints kinda arent the greatest paints u could try krylon but thats about it

Pre shading is easier than post shading. So basically. Primer-> base color -> shading (darker color than main color) -> main color -> … decals

Personally, I am an advocate of Vallejo paints (sold by HLJ).

Since you have experience with acrylic paints, I would suggest Vallejo, Tamiya acrylics, or even Citadel. They key is thinning your paints. What paints you use all depends on what you have available locally. I will say that one advantage Tamiya has is that you can paint in matching…[Read more]

Well, most people use acrylics, Tamiya or Mr.Hobby. And then there are some that use enamels, for either painting the entire kit or for detailing and panel washes.
I use acrylics, lacquers and enamels (mostly for panel washes and detailing), it depends on the job at hand.
You could use a combination of all of them, just know what to put on top of…[Read more]

Awesome! Thanks for the help!

It’s not the easiest process. Basically you need to modify HG parts so that they fit into the RG frame, though that requires a lot of cutting and Gluing. The main tricky part is making sure that they move in the same ways as the RG did so that they don’t hit each other, which is hard because HGs are usually more chunky than RGs.

tamiya enamel paints are generally not used for airbrushing theyre usually used for panel line wash u can use him but enamels take FOREVER to dry (some brands may take even up to 2 weeks to dry) if u really wanna do it with enamels use lighter fluid or something of that content it should work

this makes a lot of sense when i used testors enamel it took forever to not be *sticky* when handling

There are actually three ways do achieve this;

1- This is a rather obvious way, getting your hands on a pearl paint.

2- Get some pearl powder and mix it with the paint.

3- get some pearl powder and mix it with a gloss clear coat.

There are a few places that sell pearl powder and in different shades, I use the normal one which looks white but…[Read more]

As far as I know there isn’t any way to get notified if something comes back in stock you just have to check it every once in a while. at least that’s what I’ve been doing for the last couple of years xd

1; Learn your ABC’s and maybe a translator or dictionary…? 😛

2; If there is anything that has caught your fancy on HLJ, don’t wait for it to come in stock, just order it. You’ll only be charged when the product comes in stock. There is a possibility that more people have placed an order on a product and when it comes in stock, it’ll be…[Read more]

The boards are set up so that you can share and view content specifically relayed to one subject, like “What are you building” for WIPs.
If you don’t want to go searching through groups you can use the “activity” feed to see every post around Hobbylink.tv.
Hope that helps a bit.

maybe you should use lighter fluid as thinner and removing excess panel wash because its more safer than thinner

It depends on what type of acrylic paint you have used. If it’s by Vallejo, then I would strongly recommend not doing it with an enamel wash, as Vallejo paint is water based and really really weak.
However, if you have used an alcohol based acrylic paint, like Tamiya or Mr.Hobby, it will be no problem whatsoever to do an enamel panel wash and use…[Read more]

Panel washes on top of acrylic paint is tricky. I’d first coat the paint with a gloss varnish (Future Finish works well for this) and what I’ve found to be the safest wash is artists oil paint diluted with mineral spirits.

This is a tricky one.. I have been doing this:
1. Tamiya Acrylics base color,
2. future (pledge) floor polish coat.
3. Sludge wash (distilled water, ground up black charcoal or other powdered color, a few drops of dish soap)
4. After sludge wash dries i wipe most of it off with paper towel and q-tips, just wet the tiniest bit with water..
5.…[Read more]

My first MG was the Heavy Arms EW. I love that kit. I think the look is great and the articulation does pretty good. Although I can’t compare it to the others as I haven’t built them

I’ve built the Heavyarms EW and the Sinanju (not stein). While I love them both, I find the EW kits are a great combo of looks and articulation. My Sinanju, while it looks kick ass, it’s huge, took a long time and doesn’t have great articulation. Hands and wrists are an issue, and shoulders don’t move too much. Not sure if the Sinanju Stein has…[Read more]

I’d wait a little bit before getting the Sinanju Stein, it’s a great kit but I think the others may be better for your first MG. The other 3 are all very good kits in terms of articulation but, my favourite is the Duel. At the end of the day the best way to choose is to get whichever you think looks the best.

definitely echo-ing the seed MG first suggestion, duel is pretty cool. Sinanju stein is a hell of project (as are all MG sinanju variants) and definitely best done when you have a couple MG’s under your belt IMO. Either way you can’t go wrong with the MG Duel or EW Heavyarms.

use sandpaper to sharpen it into the form u want but use a low grit u dont really need something so rough to do it sand the tilted side of the blade but dont do it too quickly u gotta do it slowly so u no how much is gone

Exactly, just like thebanshee said, just some advice to it, lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and go with the “blade” over it. Like one would do with a real knife on a whetstone. Don’t forget making an angle when you reach the bend part towards the point of the blade.
After finishing sanding, you could use some polishing compound/cloth.
Good…[Read more]