I have always want to get a PG kit, but due to the size of them, which always make me stop from getting it until recently. After watched the HLJ TV for the PG UNICORN, I think I can manage to fit it inside my Ikea glass display. So here is my question, for those who own one, can someone tell me how tall is it from head to toe? With the stand…[Read more]
The Unicorn in destroy mode is 39cm/12.5inch tall without the display base. The display base ads another 3.5cm/1.37inch.
The base is 28.5cm/11.13inch wide and 23.5cm/9.18inch deep (displayed with the Gatling guns on the sides)
I hope this answers your question
i’m trying to save on trips and hobby paint purchases. i’ve been going through my enamel gloss black paint bottles like crazy trying to achieve that high gloss base coat for my metallic inner frame schemes. i’m wondering if anyone has any idea of a good substitute for black enamel gloss paint that i can purchase in a whole can (from the…[Read more]
u may as well just suck it up and buy aclad paints its a pretty big bottle of primer
although the idea to get a primer for cheaper is good it may not be worthwhile since those hardware paints kinda arent the greatest paints u could try krylon but thats about it
yeah, i guess the pigments wouldn’t be as fine as they’re not designed for airbrushing. i can’t get alclads where i’m at, even shipping. i’m using testors metalizers and they’re working real nice with testors gloss black enamel. i just won’t be able to get chrome finishes. same thing with primers. will search if krylons have non-spray cans, might…[Read more]
Rust-Oleum makes gloss black in spray cans, and if I’m not mistaking, those are enamels.
So you could either spray them directly out of the can or de-can it for spraying it through your airbrush.
I spray a lot of aerosol spray cans mend for the automotive industry though my airbrush after de-canning them, and even the metallic ones go through the…[Read more]
It’s really simple, just stick a straw to the “nozzle” of the spray can using some tape and spray it in a jar. Just keep in mind that the aerosol propellant will still expand, so don’t close the lid of the jar for 24 hours or so. It might explode…
The GostofZeon on YouTube has a tutorial on the subject
Hi Guys, i’m new here so please be patience with me
After straight-building some gundam kits and clean-paint it, i’d like to do some shading on it
My question is, wha to do first, apply decals then shading it or the otherwise around
For RG decals (or stickers) specially
Thanx
This has probably been asked/answered before and forgive my laziness for not searching 😛 but, I want to start painting my Gunpla. I am not a novice when it comes to model building or painting in general, I just have not done it in a VERY long time. Like 7 years or so.
Anyways, what brand/type of paints do most people go with or recommend? I…[Read more]
Personally, I am an advocate of Vallejo paints (sold by HLJ).
Since you have experience with acrylic paints, I would suggest Vallejo, Tamiya acrylics, or even Citadel. They key is thinning your paints. What paints you use all depends on what you have available locally. I will say that one advantage Tamiya has is that you can paint in matching…[Read more]
Well, most people use acrylics, Tamiya or Mr.Hobby. And then there are some that use enamels, for either painting the entire kit or for detailing and panel washes.
I use acrylics, lacquers and enamels (mostly for panel washes and detailing), it depends on the job at hand.
You could use a combination of all of them, just know what to put on top of…[Read more]
It’s not the easiest process. Basically you need to modify HG parts so that they fit into the RG frame, though that requires a lot of cutting and Gluing. The main tricky part is making sure that they move in the same ways as the RG did so that they don’t hit each other, which is hard because HGs are usually more chunky than RGs.
Hello everyone, I have a quick question that I’m hoping can be answered. I’ve just purchased some tamiya enamel paints and was wondering what a good cheap thinner would be. The tamiya branded enamel thinner is sorta expensive for the size of the containers so can I use anything else for my airbrush?
tamiya enamel paints are generally not used for airbrushing theyre usually used for panel line wash u can use him but enamels take FOREVER to dry (some brands may take even up to 2 weeks to dry) if u really wanna do it with enamels use lighter fluid or something of that content it should work
Thanks for the reply! I live in a zero humidity high heat area so drying time shouldn’t be that bad. I’ve used Testors enamel before but i don’t really like the colors. I’ve heard I might be able to use alchohol or mineral spirits too but I’m not positive
Hello Merc.
You shouldn’t use alcohol for enamels. This works great for the Tamiya acrylics though.
Lighter fluid or mineral spirits will work fine for thinning enamels.
The more thin the paint is, the quicker it actually dries. So for enamels to dry rather quick, use multiple thin coats.
Even though you live in a zero humidity high heat area…[Read more]
My worst case of enamel paint curing took around 40 days (at least after those days it wasnt tacky anymore). And it was all because i was to lazy to go to store and get red acrylic paint, and noticed i had the right red in enamel….
A pearl paint and mixing pearl powder into the paint works best for me. The lather depends on which pearl powder you use.
The method of mixing pearl powder to a gloss clear coat is more or less a last resort option.
I hope this answers your question.
Good luck and happy building
As far as I know there isn’t any way to get notified if something comes back in stock you just have to check it every once in a while. at least that’s what I’ve been doing for the last couple of years xd
1; Learn your ABC’s and maybe a translator or dictionary…? 😛
2; If there is anything that has caught your fancy on HLJ, don’t wait for it to come in stock, just order it. You’ll only be charged when the product comes in stock. There is a possibility that more people have placed an order on a product and when it comes in stock, it’ll be…[Read more]
Oh i wasn’t talking about how anyone writes.. I mean the way the boards are structured is confusing to me. Groups instead of ‘posts’ .. I’m still getting used to the SOFTWARE used here.
Wasn’t my intention to be mean to you, just felt like being a smart @ss.
And to be honest, it took me a while to get used to writing of some people.
About the site, once you get the hang of it, it will become more and more clear how it works. It was designed to be a bit like Facebook.
But seriously, if you are interested in a product which is in…[Read more]
On the internet no one can hear your tone. (mine either!)
I am having issues with getting the hang of the message board structure here. I’m much more used to the ‘phpbb’ , or bulletin board’ system. this seems harder to navigate. I’ll probably get used to it.
I’m trying to figure out a way to get a notice when an item that is NOT up for sale…[Read more]
Yeah, that’s a tough one… Can’t think of a way either. Maybe a mail to HLJ. I think that in about one and a half hour the workday begins in Japan, as it’s almost midnight over here and there is a time difference of seven hours between here and Japan, so I’m sure you get a answer very soon.
Ps, I know, that’s why I put a emoticon at the end of…[Read more]
The boards are set up so that you can share and view content specifically relayed to one subject, like “What are you building” for WIPs.
If you don’t want to go searching through groups you can use the “activity” feed to see every post around Hobbylink.tv.
Hope that helps a bit.
It depends on what type of acrylic paint you have used. If it’s by Vallejo, then I would strongly recommend not doing it with an enamel wash, as Vallejo paint is water based and really really weak.
However, if you have used an alcohol based acrylic paint, like Tamiya or Mr.Hobby, it will be no problem whatsoever to do an enamel panel wash and use…[Read more]
Panel washes on top of acrylic paint is tricky. I’d first coat the paint with a gloss varnish (Future Finish works well for this) and what I’ve found to be the safest wash is artists oil paint diluted with mineral spirits.
future gloss coat
then afterwards use humbrol paints trust me when i say this because ive had problems doing panel line wash for a while and humbrol works great even if the glosscoat isnt completely cured if its like 70% cured it still works i only know because ive been using tamiya acrylics and there paints are really weak and easily chipped
This is a tricky one.. I have been doing this:
1. Tamiya Acrylics base color,
2. future (pledge) floor polish coat.
3. Sludge wash (distilled water, ground up black charcoal or other powdered color, a few drops of dish soap)
4. After sludge wash dries i wipe most of it off with paper towel and q-tips, just wet the tiniest bit with water..
5.…[Read more]
Oh yea. If this all goes horribly wrong, spray the whole part with Easy Off oven cleaner, and scrub with a toothbrush, then restart, the plastic will be in good shape but all the paint will be GONE.
I’ve been looking into my first mg,it’s between the Sinanju Stein or The gundam wing…possibly heavy arms as well but I’m having a hard time deciding. I mostly care about looks and articulation when it comes to a kit. Actually the duel gundam looks pretty cool to me. Please help!
My first MG was the Heavy Arms EW. I love that kit. I think the look is great and the articulation does pretty good. Although I can’t compare it to the others as I haven’t built them
I’ve built the Heavyarms EW and the Sinanju (not stein). While I love them both, I find the EW kits are a great combo of looks and articulation. My Sinanju, while it looks kick ass, it’s huge, took a long time and doesn’t have great articulation. Hands and wrists are an issue, and shoulders don’t move too much. Not sure if the Sinanju Stein has…[Read more]
I’d wait a little bit before getting the Sinanju Stein, it’s a great kit but I think the others may be better for your first MG. The other 3 are all very good kits in terms of articulation but, my favourite is the Duel. At the end of the day the best way to choose is to get whichever you think looks the best.
sinanju steins abit complex if ur a beginner because of it being a ver ka and all. id go for a seed kit like blitz or duel theyre pretty neat in builds and alittle more simpler. wing kits i feel like theyre alittle more delicate so if u want something sturdy as ur first build go for a Gat gundam seed kit
definitely echo-ing the seed MG first suggestion, duel is pretty cool. Sinanju stein is a hell of project (as are all MG sinanju variants) and definitely best done when you have a couple MG’s under your belt IMO. Either way you can’t go wrong with the MG Duel or EW Heavyarms.
Can anyone give me some tips about sharpening gunpla blades? Like the blades on the many exia kits for example, i want to bring them to a nice point and maybe give them an edge as well.
Any help would be appreciated, Please and Thank You.
use sandpaper to sharpen it into the form u want but use a low grit u dont really need something so rough to do it sand the tilted side of the blade but dont do it too quickly u gotta do it slowly so u no how much is gone
Exactly, just like thebanshee said, just some advice to it, lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and go with the “blade” over it. Like one would do with a real knife on a whetstone. Don’t forget making an angle when you reach the bend part towards the point of the blade.
After finishing sanding, you could use some polishing compound/cloth.
Good…[Read more]
I’d suggest using a epoxy putty, like “The Green Stuff”. It is a putty made out of two compounds which you have to mix. It contains a “filler” and “hardener”.
You could apply it directly to the piece, sculpt it to the desired shape and when cured sand it down.
With this method, there is no need for a super glue to adhere it to a part, but can be…[Read more]
I just did some research on this a couple months ago, heres what i found:
I kept seeing this ‘yellow’ putty substance they would fill in the voids in HG kits with, and create simple parts, In Hobby Japan magazine. I google-translated several pages until it became clear it was called ‘polyester putty’ It seems they have Tamiya Polyester Putty,…[Read more]
what does primer do exactly? and do they come pre thinned or do you have to thin it yourself? Also for thinning paint is it normally done with 3:1 ratio?
Actually, primer is something that is supposed to help the paint adhere to whatever surface you are painting. It can come in various colors. The usual colors are black, white, and grey. Vallejo’s line of primers come in many other colors.
When priming a surface, it is ideal to let the primer cure for several hours (12-24 is ideal) before adding…[Read more]
Please take note that some automotive primers will NOT adhere to plastics, especially ABS!
A good indication for this, if the same brand sell special primer for plastics!
And Vallejo primers can be very tricky to work with….
But to answer your question, most primers on’t need to be diluted. But this depends on the brand and type you use.
As for…[Read more]
The Unicorn in destroy mode is 39cm/12.5inch tall without the display base. The display base ads another 3.5cm/1.37inch.
The base is 28.5cm/11.13inch wide and 23.5cm/9.18inch deep (displayed with the Gatling guns on the sides)
I hope this answers your question
Thanks… That really help