I also use clear coat as primer for my kits and hand paint details. I usually go for matte because I want to take away the plastic shine from my finished kit. I think the slightly textured finish brought about by matte coat also gives better adhesion for my acrylics (Vallejo model and/or game color) But that’s just my personal preference and observation.
If I may ask, why not use a normal dedicated primer? They are deigned for that specific job.
But if I had to choose, I’d go for the gloss one. A matte leaves a “gritty” finish which may come trough in your paint job. On the other hand, a gloss clear will leave the same effect as clear plastic, the surface gets really smooth, so I see no really…[Read more]
You really should use actual primer. Clear coat is intended to protect paint, and will not adhere to the bare plastic as well as primer. the only time you will normally be painting on top of clear coat, is when doing panel lines, washes, highlighting, etc. after which you’ll clear coat over that.
However, if you are set on not using primer,…[Read more]
In my case, I don’t have enough time to use an actual surface primer and color the whole kit. (I don’t have an airbrush either even if I had the time, so I can only hand brush the colors in.) So I use the clear matte to protect the decals and I use it as “primer” before I paint small details. Since I deal primarily with MGs, the color is almost…[Read more]
I would just go with washing the parts, because in the long run, it’s going to save you money as you’re not having to use as much clear coat on the kit. It’ll take more time to complete the kit, but saving money always equates to more stuff lol.
Haha! You have a good point there. More stuff is always better. 🙂 Anyway, I only use hardware-sold acrylic sprays on my kits to save. I know many people prefer those made for model kits like Tamiya or Mr. Hobby, but the hardware type I use is good enough for me.
Hi guys, I’m looking for a file set that would help me remove nubs. I’m working on HGs and RGs if that helps. I also pain the HGs but, not the RGs. Would you happen to recommend a great file set (brand and model)
I’m currently using the Tamiya Basic File Set (Fine Double Cut). I find these come in handy for really big nubs or when sharpening a blade. The only down side is I have to use sand paper after using them. Even tough Tamiya states them to be “Fine Double Cut” they still are rather coarse
In other words, they remove nubs really quick, but expect to…[Read more]
I Just Completed 1/100 MG Gundam RX-78-2 Ver. 3.0… can anybody teach me how to paint the elbow and back of the knee in bronze color… and what kind of paint i will buy…
if i recall syd just painted sprayed the inside of the arm piece that u want bronze but the other leg id either use masking tape and cover up the rest u dont want bronze and spray up the parts u want bronze
but u could hand piant with enamels because enamals are good with detail since its thick just mix it with thinner to have a milky texture and…[Read more]
I handpaint Vallejo Game or Model Color Bronze or copper for it. But I usually spray the kit lightly with a matte coat first. (after decal work) Otherwise, the paint won’t adhere much on the bare plastic (even after de-greasing it).
Hi all I was just wondering if there is anyone on this site that is capable of doing a kit bash using the back piece of a 1/100 HG Amatsu and putting it onto a 1/100 MG Blitz…
actually if ur shooting for mg
then use then buy the nebula blitz theres an adaptor to the back of it im not 100% sure but it should somewhat fit because the mold if for the blitz and there proportions are the same
so i think applying alittle putty and to connect it to the back of the mg should be fine and then add paint
if u want to go even…[Read more]
Hey guys, so I am waiting for my MG F91 harrison custom and I want to put it on an action base but I noticed that an action base 1 would be really big for it and I was wondering if it would fit on an action base 2 since it personally would look better on one because of its size and take up less space. Are they compatible?
Thanks for the feedback!Looks like I may have to find a different method to display him in an efficient manor, or take my chances with weight distribution.
If it helps, I tried to mount the MG Victory Gundam (a bit smaller than the F91) on an AB2 but the base itself came apart too easily. While the arm was plenty strong, I would’ve needs to add more bases to the existing 2 in order to have it stable.
Im thinking about taking the arm from an AB2 and putting it on an AB1 SInce the AB1 probably has the space for two models if you have the larger one elevated high enough from the bottom plate
Finished my most involved Gundam build yet! This is my MG Sengoku Astray Red Frame. I gloss coated all the red parts, flat coated all the other parts, lined and painted the…