i finished modding my zeong and i started to paint it however when i did after the paint dried i could see the surface of the plastic to be all scratchy from sanding it down and such is there a way to get rid of that look like prime it or something??
What you can do is prime to see where it’s rough. If you use a grey primer then it’s easy to see changes in the surface and so, easy to try and fix. This is the best way I’ve found to smooth out plastic.
What Nick said is true, but you’ll be looking for a primer with “micro filler” added to it. Of course you need to sand it after priming it. For a flat paint, a 800 grid sandpaper will do, for gloss and metallics, a 1000 or 1200 grid sandpaper is needed. And you need to get a primer that is compatible with the paint you are using, provided you want…[Read more]
so i have to prime it with tamiyas since im using tamiya paints but after that i still have to resand it but wouldnt that create a more scratchy rough surface though??
If you are using the Tamiya acrylics, you can’t prime your parts with Tamiya Primer spray cans, nor the Tamiya Surface Primer which comes in a bottle. Both are lacquers and will ruin your messed up paint job even more!
There are two options for you, one being that you use some more paint to thicken the surface and then sand it smooth, the other is…[Read more]
Right now i already stripped off the original paint for the tamiya primer so all i have to do is prime it up then check for scratched surfaces then sand it n then re prime n then paint?
just finished a rg chars zaku II i touched it up with a little metalic paint specifically copper silver and aluminium . i also just finished a rg strike freedom which i also touched up with some gold some blue and a tint bit of red
a little random tip if you want to add a little bit of a soot like effect just bub some sharpie on the kit then just rubbing alcohol and a cotton bud to wipe some away just be mindful that the longer the ink sits the less will wipe off, this can also be done for some panel lining
I am pretty new to the Gunpla hobby, but it is all thanks to @syd and @ryan for getting me into this awesome hobby. So far I have built 3 MG’s and I am working on a PG Astray Red Frame.
I am pretty new to Gunpla, with only 3 completed kits under my belt. I am building a PG Red Frame atm. But Gunpla has rocketed into first place of all my hobbies, and I will be building alot in the future.
Those are three pretty looking kits! Build the PG Red Fame myself and I know you’re enjoying it at the moment.
If I may add, you’ve got an excellent taste in suit designs.
Good luck and happy building!
Just finished this commission build, a full repaint and weather of the MG Wing Gundam EW. Really nice kit, although some of the seam lines were annoyingly placed, and the fact the hand/arm just can’t support the weight of the Buster Rifle is a bit frustrating. Anyhoo, here’s some shots, enjoy, and feedback welcome!
So we have several MGs announced today.
– Amazing Exia (P-Bandai)
– Hyaku Shiki Kai (P-Bandai)
– V2 Gundam Ver. Ka (only mass release that was announced)
Hi!
i have a question about paint and top coat.
Im painting and detailing with acrylic paint and doing the decals and the question is would Tamiya TS-80 ruin the paint job?
Since it’s laquer based?
Still haven’t smelled it myself, so I can’t say for sure it is. Some say it is, others say it’s a solvent based acrylic, which still is a lacquer to me…, even others state it’s a alcohol based acrylic….
In any case, to be on the safe side, if it’s a sticker or a dry transfer decal, there will be no issues. If it’s a water slide, make sure all…[Read more]
Thanks for a quick answer!:)
i’ll try on my starwars kit which i used acrylic and used water slides. I’ll try do what you suggested, how long does one can last?
Im doing a MG HI-Nu ver. Ka exchanging purple with black and add some medium grey on various parts to offset all the white ^^
You’re welcome!
Well, that means that the carrier in the paint is indeed solvent based and the pigment is alcohol based acrylic. This means you’ll have to treat it as a lacquer paint, so please use the technique previously mentioned.
Don’t know for sure how long one can will last you, but back in the old day when I used spray cans myself, I used…[Read more]
What you can do is prime to see where it’s rough. If you use a grey primer then it’s easy to see changes in the surface and so, easy to try and fix. This is the best way I’ve found to smooth out plastic.
What Nick said is true, but you’ll be looking for a primer with “micro filler” added to it. Of course you need to sand it after priming it. For a flat paint, a 800 grid sandpaper will do, for gloss and metallics, a 1000 or 1200 grid sandpaper is needed. And you need to get a primer that is compatible with the paint you are using, provided you want…[Read more]
so i have to prime it with tamiyas since im using tamiya paints but after that i still have to resand it but wouldnt that create a more scratchy rough surface though??
If you are using the Tamiya acrylics, you can’t prime your parts with Tamiya Primer spray cans, nor the Tamiya Surface Primer which comes in a bottle. Both are lacquers and will ruin your messed up paint job even more!
There are two options for you, one being that you use some more paint to thicken the surface and then sand it smooth, the other is…[Read more]
Right now i already stripped off the original paint for the tamiya primer so all i have to do is prime it up then check for scratched surfaces then sand it n then re prime n then paint?
That’s correct. Good luck!
Actually quick question wht happens if u put primer over the tamiya acrylics
The same thing as you put lacquers on top of acrylics. It’ll start dissolving the paint and eventually it’ll peal right off