Hmmmmm… ::opens up the nu ver ka box from the unopened backlog:: looking at the fin funnel parts i can tell that it was a sticker or something else that was inset into the surface of the plastic. There are recesses there so its just a matter of finding a suitable material (rainbow shiny plastic), cutting out the parts and likely gluing them in…[Read more]
Just buy some aurora stickers. Then make some templates of the crevasses. This is like making a custom gasket for lets say an intake manifold on an engine, except using a gasket sheet, use some normal paper. Lay the paper over the inside of the fin funnels. Then a blunt but straight object like a very dull knife and gently scratch along the edges…[Read more]
Nice mod, and good advices again from @teetee580. Am finding so much mod on this kit I think am good for the next couple of months as I prefer to concentrate on one kit at a time.
and that’s cheap compared to the “platinum Fix Figuration RX-78-2 ver. KA” you can’t buy it but it has $250,000 worth of platinum and a diamond for it’s eyes, but back in 2007 it seems his price tage was comparable to that PG, only he’s about the size of an HG
Hi guys. I’m pretty new to this awesome hobby. I used to build mostly fighter jets but then I got into Gundam and these models are great. Here’s is my small collection so far, hoping to build many more. Let me know if it’s looking good.
Hi everyone!I want to put LEDs for the psychoframe of my Nu ver.Ka. I’ve come across those pic where a lot of SMDs are arranged in series or so it seems. Anyone know how to reproduce that?
To be honest, I wouldn’t do it like that. I reminds me of K.I.T.T. of the Night Rider series. And it doesn’t look like the builder use LED strips when seeing the angle of the LED’s in the arm. To me it looks like he drilled small holes to put them in.
If I where going to light up the psycho frame of the Nu, I would use the pegs which connects the…[Read more]
Thanks for your comment. I really needed the insight of an experienced builder. I completely agree with you on the aesthetics and yeah it would be much simple. I was already having headaches thinking about all the SMDs I would have had to put together. I was thinking about neon Optic Fiber, but I knew I would face problem due to the “Zig-Zag” of…[Read more]
I was also thinking about a so called hot spot. Had that problem with the PG Red Frame, the LED provided by Bandai is right behind the “eyes”. And the LED in the PG is of course not as wide as the clear part for the eyes.
Because of the pegs on the clear green part for the psycho frame on the Nu are a few millimeters long my guess is that the hot…[Read more]
Im in the panning stages for something along the lines of “lighting up” the psycho frame on the nu. ive done a little bit of testing and have gotten the best results using something similar to what @teetee580 mentioned with backlighting the pegs. The only difference is i plan on mounting the LEDs long the edge of the frame part (perpendicular to…[Read more]
What kind of wires are you using??I will be using polyurethane covered copper hair like thin wires. A tiny hole will be enough to thread all the wires. I don’t think it will brick my kit! It will be such a shame to do that to this kit!!
Do post pics!Am putting 23 LEDs on the MG Sinanju. If it doesn’t become a brick kit then am good to go on this…[Read more]
Will be checking for updates!As for bricking my kit,I don’t think so-am gonna use PE coated copper coil wires that are thin as hair! So a tiny hole will do for all the wires to go through and it will cause less interference with articulation!
@Hellvin, maybe something you already know, but even if you are using a very small wire, it could hinder the movement of the Nu if the wires are too short. For e.g. the arms, measure the length of the wire you need to use in a bent position. If you should measure in a straight position, it will come out too short, thus hindering the…[Read more]
I can’t find any specific tutorials but what I do is cut the ends of a tooth pick to a very fine point, then paint with that. I’ll do a base coat of the main color then paint on top of that.
What I do is first using a pin wash. Let it flow in all the crevasses which then gives me clear lines to paint within. When it’s cured I use a magnifying glass and use a 5/0 brush for the little details.
What would you have in mind about painting those, tool wise? 000 brushes do the job just fine for me. Just take care of it and it’ll be a great tool for fine work.
So I’m thinking of painting my MG Zeta Gundam 2.0 frame and all and I was wondering what order to paint in as far as the type of paints I will be using. I have a can of Tamiya enamel paint for the frame as well as Tamiya primer. I was going to use acrylics for the rest. Thoughts? Thanks for your help!
Don’t use primer on the frame. Just make sure you wash the parts really good, and your good to go. Primer will create an additional layer that can potentially cause issues when putting the armor pieces on the kit(pieces wont fit properly, gaps between armor sections, etc).
As for your acrylic and enamel order, it depends on how you’re doing it.…[Read more]
You can. Clear coat thankfully doesn’t create as think a layer as primer does. It really depends on what you’re going to do. If you plan on using decals on the frame, if they’re water slides, then use the enamel. If you’re not going to decal the frame, then its just whatever you want to do.
well i painted my own zeta 2.0 and it was a pain in the ass. wht i did was basically paint parts that u would see thouroughlt and then paint up the parts u dont really see much in one piece the zeta gundam is avery annoying gundam to take apart so wht i would do is just dont take apart the model as much specifically the body and legs u can check…[Read more]