Best thing you can do to fix gate marks is to not make them in the first place – I tend to be a bit careless about this, and the consequence is that I have to sand and perhaps putty the gate marks prior to painting. But you can avoid doing that repair work if you do the initial cutting more carefully: Careless cutting will actually tear out some…[Read more]
I’ll add something to what Tetsujin said. When cutting with a hobby knife cut in one way then in the other way. When you start cutting the blade will naturally go up leaving the other side of the nub untouched. Don’t try to force the blade to go down the nub because you’ll risk to force damage the plastic leaving a white mark or worse carving the…[Read more]
I forgot to add something:
if you still have white marks and you’re not painting your kit you can use Gundam markers of the appropriate colors. They come individually or in sets, for example Seed or Zion sets. Shake it well then apply a little dip on your mark. Then I personally use a cotton stalk to get rid of the excess of paint and smooth the area.
so would 1000 grit sand paper be good enough for it I have a few places to touch up that are noticeable and I am not sure even thou it is my first model if I should clear coat it I know the principle of it but im not sure suggestions? oh and what should I use for panel lining
When sanding you want to start with something coarse enough to do the job efficiently, and then progress through other grits until you get to something fine enough to get the surface really smooth. It’s important to work your way through a number of intermediate grits from coarse to fine because each sandpaper will leave scratches on the part. To…[Read more]
Yeah I cant stand the scratches it makes me nervous so I can still see the scratches do I have t go over the entire part? cause the scratches are quite noticeable oh and any tips besides gundam markers for tiny white marks when I started I made a few
If you do it right the sanding process will result in a smooth surface. Sanding with 320 grit will leave significant scratches, and that’s why you follow up with 400 grit… which is strong enough to smooth out the 320 grit scratches but fine enough that the scratches it leaves will be smaller. Go 320, 400, 600 and you should have a nice-looking…[Read more]
yeah i thought about clear coating it but some how i can see me messing it up and painting on this model just dosnt make sense cause the colours are so good
Bahh… It’s always worth it to paint!
And if you have any interest at all at getting good at painting models… You’ll never get better at painting models by NOT painting models.
You’re correct then your clear coat will protect the decals. I presume you’re using stickers and not water decals.
Just be aware that clear coats will pop out any sanding region and imperfection even if you don’t see it with bare eyes as matt coats would hide them. I recommend you make a test on a a piece of the runner that you sanded before like…[Read more]
Hi guys ive seen some really cool custom sd gundams around the net where people sorta kitbashed a hg+sd kit and putty. Im really interested in making one so just wondering does anyone know how its done? I would like to have a look at a wip if possible. Here are some…[Read more]
from the looks of it they take the head and chest of the SD and did the rest from HG I think in most cases the arms will probably be a pretty good fit the polycaps in SD and HG are around the same size, connecting the waste however would be more difficult as SD’s tend to use a double ball joint which most HG’s don’t. so the waist assembly is…[Read more]
First link and second link – SD kit + HG kit.
the last link is from a pro builder Keita. You can find his work in wonderexcellent. http://www.wonderexcellence.com/
sorry just seen you don’t want anything too easy lol . If you have built model kits before I would go for a high grade kit , personally I prefer the 1/100 scale as they avoid the really small fidly parts that some of the smaller kits have. If you don’t mind small parts then the 1/144 high grade kits are a good place to start , the newer build…[Read more]
I would say anything SD those are super fun and really simple and as a bonus they don’t take up much space so you can fit a lot more into a smaller space.
Hey guys, going to get myself the Procon Boy WA 0.2mm airbrush to replace my sotar 2020. Just want to get into enamel paints and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations for enamel paints? Iv’e heard good things about the Testors enamel series but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.
Thanks in advance guys
is there a reason you want enamel paints in particular? As for brands of enamels I believe Tamiya has some and they’re a really good brand and ofcourse Testors as you’ve mentioned is a good brand as well.
Oh yeah of course – I heard they’re really good paints. And would you recommend a .2mm or a .3mm? I was just wondering because i’ve yet to paint a master grade kit and wasn’t sure if the .2mm will have a large enough spray pattern to have a consistent colour when painted onto large pieces.
well the .2 mm will give you a finer mist which is pretty nice to have however when you start working with Pearl and metallic paints the finer tip is easier to get clogged which can get annoying. as for spray pattern I wouldn’t worry about that too much you can get pretty thick strokes still, actually I’m not even sure if there’s a difference…[Read more]
Hello everyone I have a question:
I read on the net that Mr Color is a special type of acrylic paint and should be thinned with Mr Color thinner. I have some pots of this brand of paint that I didn’t used yet.
I have only Tamiya’s acrylic thinner and my question is can I use this thinner with Mr Color paints?
Thanks in advance for the replies and…[Read more]
you can try it but I doubt it will work. Gunze, the maker of Mr.Color has different lines one of them is Mr Color Aqueous which is an acrylic paint, but the one normally reffered to as Mr.Color is a water based lacquer paint. if however what you do have is Mr Color Aqueous then I suppose it would work, the problem is I have no idea how to tell…[Read more]
It’s Gundam Color pots. I can read Japanese but nothing about the nature of the paint is written on it.
It only says that it’s semi gloss and has some numbers on it, for instance the blue is “Blue 17” and “CG72”.
Gundam color by Mr. Hobby are all lacquer base. But with more experience modeler, they can see there are normal paint color also a gundam color except normal color is lot more cheaper than Gundam color, lol.
And no, Mr. Hobby Acrylic is nothing special, they don’t need special thinner too. It just a market business. You can thinned down with any…[Read more]