For the rest, never build the 00, only the Red Frame (PG). It was my first Gundam, and it’s a sort of glorified MG. In my opinion, if you can build a MG, PG will be no problem.
Maybe more parts, but also bigger. If you follow the guide, I’m sure you will have no problems.
If you might need some translation from the construction manual you can…[Read more]
I just bought a Action Base 1 and Action Base 2 and I find these yellow blank paper/sticker. Does anyone know what are they for? First I thought they are for the plate and allow me to stick something on it, but the size for it is NOT same as the plate. I’m so curious what they are for…
they are used on the older kits that didn’t have the mounting spot for the action base. they are to be cut into small strips and used on the adapters that have the 4 prongs sticking up. Helps to hold the kits in place on the adapter.
Rethinking a concept here, I’m wanting to know if anyone has tried to kitbash the 1:144 Victory Gundam with any standard size model as a build? The reason I ask is I’m considering using it as a basis combined with the AGE-2 to build upon a transforming build for the refined design of my concept model Gundam Malibu. I was originally going to have…[Read more]
Looking at the polycap designs I think that the Age-2’s waist should work with the victory. If it doesn’t fit you can cut down the waist peg to fit the victory’s chest polycap on.
The fore arms would be very difficult to attach to the Age-2s upper arms unfortunately as they have very different connections.
I was looking to build an mg, any suggestions on something cheap but good all round (articulation, sturdiness,lining options, etc.)something a bit more current preferably. Thanks in advance! 😀
mg freedoms a prettty good choice in my opinion cant go wrong with it its pretty cheap. or you could pick up wing gundam proto zero i think that was pretty good it wasnt hard to build either
Just search on YouTube….
There are so many tutorials to find for someone who wants to search…
Mokanaman there has some MrHobby and Tamiya hand painting guides.
Greenday0050 has a big tutorial on pre shading. Done with a airbrush, but can also be done with a hand brush if you follow Mokanaman’s advise on how to hand brush
well they’re different formulas ofcourse but beyond that not too much , Mr Color does however also have a UV Cut line which is supposed to protect your paints from UV exposure and thus preserve the color longer, I like using that stuff but can’t really tell you if the UV Cut thing actually works but it makes me feel better.
I guess nobody knows… But you can use white spirits or lighter fluid for diluting enamels. Much cheaper and easier to come by. There is even a tutorial by TheGhostofZeon on YouTube on how to
I finish painted my kit, now I wanted to proceed to panel lining ( and after panel lining is decals), I just want to clarify that after painting , what should be going first, clear coat then paneling then clear coat, then decals then final flat coat? or clear coat all the way? or flat coat all the way? because I’m wondering about problems with…[Read more]
First apply a gloss clear coat on the paint job. A gloss is smoother for better flowing panel lines and more dense and harder making it safer to remove excess paint from the panel lining.
I can’t stress this enough: don not use a water based acrylic for this like Vallejo or Model Master.
Best to use a alcohol based one like Tamiya or Mr Color.…[Read more]
I never tried it… But flat clear has a milky sheen to it. This is because there is a little white pigment in there. So my guess is no.
The only way to take of the flat coat without ruining your paint job is to sand it of, which can take a lot of time…
If you don’t worry about your paint job, you can leave it over night in oven cleaner, windex…[Read more]
ok thanks again, but does removing clear coat over night in oven cleaner, windex, or window cleaner with amonia or clorine can damage the plastic? but if not, i will try this . . .
You’re welcome.
I’m sure chlorine won’t damage the plastic. I’ve seen it with my own eyes.
The other options for taking the paint off are tried by Syd, so he says on GunplaTV. It also won’t effect the plastic
You start off with drawing the design of the weapon that you want to make or draw a basic design of how you want the customized weapon to look like and then from there, break everything up into simple shapes. For example for a bazooka, a large round tube and some pla plate for details and for creating parts such as the handle, the attachment…[Read more]