If I were to get a Tallgeese, which one should I get???? Also what other MG should I do? I am currently waiting on my Blue Frame Second revise Astray to come in, and I just put together my first mg, the OVA color Sinanju. what should I order next? I am torn between the Sazabi ver. ka, and the Nu ver ka.
The easiest one to get which will also be the easiest on your wallet is Tallgeese 1, i’ve built that one and it’s quite fun, I just had to paint it because that white/light grey color combo sucks. I’d go with the Nu and save the sazabi for later
Nu has some teensy funnel issues but has the psychoframe gimmick which I like. Hi-Nu looks better in my opinion but there are waterslides for the two tone funnels which seem to fit better so I’d say……flip a coin because either is going to be a great build.
Well after cutting it from the runner, use your cutters to clip off the excess gate. From there you can use a file. always file in one direction, never back and forth, and try to keep the file straight and flat. A few passes should be enough to get the gate down and even with the rest of the part without scraping the rest of the part. from there…[Read more]
As for cleaning the nubs, Slater4u covered this excellent. He tells it how it is. I only suggest finishing sanding with a 1000 grid and use a 800 grid before that and after the 600 grid, since you’re not planning on painting and use Gundam Markers to get rid of the discoloration. A 600 grid still leaves scratch marks.
Also get the 800 and 1000 in…[Read more]
I recommend you do. Anything less then 800 will leave visible scratches, even when painting on the the area’s with Gundam markers. As the paint in the markers is really thin, they won’t fill up scratches. For a really good result I suggest even using a 1000 grid to get it really smooth.
And I forgot to mention in my last reply, for decals, water…[Read more]
About the upcoming MG Exia Dark Matter, do you think they’ve fixed the ankles on it? Pics shows that it’s the same ankle as the regular Exia. I might be wrong though but one can always hope.:) And also the P-Bandai exclusive MG Grey Zeta would that be based of xeta 2.0?
finally my unicorn has been released from its 2 weeks in uk customs. (an additional £51 in fees to pay for those that are interested) Really glad i went for it now as i had my doubts especially with the LEDS . i hope everyone else got some awsome gunpla for christmas/ holidays.
Primer is primaly use as a base so that paint sticks better. Other method is thoroughly was your runner using soap. Other than that is that when you prime all the imperfectness of the surface can be clearly seen and easily sand to get the perfect surface and end result.
for a metallic paint you want to lay down a gloss black before the actual metallic color you want, whether or not you use a primer before this I suppose could be considered optional but I’d do it. When working with gloss paints you can’t really do touch up work, it shows too much, and if you’re doing metallic you’re probably not going to want to…[Read more]
OK I checked out the price in the link you gave me and I have to say it is actually cheaper to getting it there than it would for me to buy it from Amazon since they’re asking a min. $1.99 +$3.65 s&h and a max at $15.63+$13.99 s&h. So what would I really have to pay for the lining pen?
I don’t know if u live in the US but if u do go to a Michaels (craft store) and look for MICRON brand fine line pens and get the 005 black pens. I can guarantee u that’s the best panel line marker u will ever get. Make sure is micron 005 hmmk? Sadly there’s never a gray marker (to panel line white parts) maybe they don’t even make gray. And if u…[Read more]
One of the simplest recommendations that even the manual gives is to get a gundam marker and fill in the panel lines. It really changes a model. Black is always a good choice, grey might be better on white suits, up to personal preference.
As well as that, it’d be nice if you can get your hands on some matt/flat varnish (top coat) to apply a…[Read more]
I will soon be doing my first model and was wondering if anybody could tell me if I’m doing it in the right order? Is it assembly > stickers > panel lines > then a flat topcoat. I’ve heard and seen different things about topcoat ruining stickers/ panel lines is this true?
It is one of the orders you could use. Putting a flat coat on top of the panel lines is possible, but not if you plan to use Gundam Markers and a lacquer based clear coat on top of that. The water based ink from the Gundam markers will be dissolved and start to run. Had this problem once in the past. Made a big mess of the piece. Using a acrylic…[Read more]
What he’s referring to, is that some clear coats, namely lacquer and some enamels, will ruin the sticker. Enamel clear coats can cause the ink on the sticker to liquefy, and Lacquer clear coats can actually dissolve the sticker.
It won’t be a problem. But as the description says, use fine coats. I thought the markers where alcohol based, but my Japanese is a little off, can’t read the label. LOL. But I could be mistaken tough.
But anyways, it give you no trouble whatsoever
I think (in my own opinion) for the whole process (not painted)
cleaning numb marks>snap fit>clear coat or gloss coat(optional)>panel line>clear coat>decals/stickers>clear coat>final coating if you want shine effect used gloss or clear, but if you like matt effect used flat coats. Gradually apply 2 to 3 thin coats.
Hi I recently assembled a Patlabor 1/35 scale MG kit and thought it would be nice to have a Macross Valkyrie 1/35 MG kit Transformable. Hope they’ll make one some day.
I want to cut this part in two in the area depicted in the picture below. But what I’m worried about is that when I do cut it in two will they still stay in place even when I move them around to pose my HGAC 1/144 Wing Gundam
not quite sure I completely understand the question, but if you’re asking if those skirt pieces will fall off the kit when you try posing then no it should be fine, the ball segments should hold it in place just fine still. If you’re asking will they flop around more then that is a possibility which can be fixed by letting a thin layer of glue…[Read more]
I believe standard practice is super glue since it’s thin and dries pretty fast, but in theory any glue should work. all you’re trying to do is add just a bit of thickness to create extra pressure which in turn means more resistance to movement, don’t overdo it though or it won’t be able to move at all or worse yet won’t even fit.
Hey after I thought about cutting the front skirt in two. I went ahead and cut it in two and to my surprise the two halves stayed in place once I put them back on the Gundam
It depends on the kit. For the most part, you should be fine, but with several kits, this will work against you. For example, the Age 3 normal(not sure it it applies to orbital and fortress), cutting that part will cause them to continuously fall out, and not thickening of the part will fix it. The sockets they sit in are shallow, and have large…[Read more]
The easiest one to get which will also be the easiest on your wallet is Tallgeese 1, i’ve built that one and it’s quite fun, I just had to paint it because that white/light grey color combo sucks. I’d go with the Nu and save the sazabi for later
Which Nu would be best? Lol
Nu has some teensy funnel issues but has the psychoframe gimmick which I like. Hi-Nu looks better in my opinion but there are waterslides for the two tone funnels which seem to fit better so I’d say……flip a coin because either is going to be a great build.
I think I’ll get Nu ver ka then get the hi nu ver ka haha
fair enough
I think Tallgeese III looks beast with the whip!