Beware, though, the stuff may yellow. This was a huge problem for “Those Gundam Guys” when they used Future on the 7 foot tall Unicorn. I may stop using it based on their experience…
Back then, Future is clear, now is yellowish. And I heard from some builder that the formula is different from the past. so test some used part before on your real deal. 🙂
Hi, anyone who knows about the colors of the “efreet nacht”?
Im bad at color judgement, so ill post a resin pic of a completed model, im attempting to do one of these, my problem is would I need to color mix or can any of the tamiya or acrylic based paints do the job without mixing?
Tamiya’s sea grey might work for some of it, not sure what you would need beyond that since it’s such a fine line between a grey, purple, and royal or dark blue shade of colour, maybe all of the above and mix and match?
Well, I have been looking at the acrylic paint chart, X-16 is a purple, X4-blue, and x-3 royal blue are close, XF range of colours…Well I’d best send you a link to the Tamiya USA PDF document of the 10ml colour range (also because some of the colours aren’t available in the 23ml size) http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/XF-chart-10ml.pdf .…[Read more]
anyone else having problems with the private warehouse on HLJ? I got an email confirmation that my order of MG wing zero custom has been placed in my private warehouse. but when I check in my private warehouse there isn’t anything there. It even says I have items available for shipping in my private warehouse.
Broke the peg that connects to the arm of the MG shenlong, fixing it isn’t a problem however i can’t get the peg out of the shoulder piece. any suggestions on how to get it out?
I had a similar problem with my HGUC Kshatriya. What I did to fix that was making a small hole in the other side of the joint and then using a pin to push it out. Hopefully this will help you out
I’m gonna be building my own custom gunpla for the second time starting soon, being inspired by Gundam Build Fighters. I want to know if there’s any way of being able to make your own custom parts, and if so, where?
Custom parts are just made from whatever you can find really. You can use an already existing piece and modify that or you can make up a custom piece from pla plate and putty. Or just a combination of both. You can then try to replicate the piece if you need another one or you can cast an identical piece by using your existing modified piece…[Read more]
No problem at all 🙂
I guess it depends on the piece you are trying to make. If you want, you can start off with drawing the design you want to make. And decide if you want to use putty, pla plate and/or scribing some new panel lines.
You can start the process by drawing the shapes you want on the pla plate. After that, you can start adding the…[Read more]
This is exactly what I came here to ask too. With the upcoming Phenex using ver ka waterslides, I really want to know this too… when putting waterslides on my Sazabi ver ka it was a nightmare until I went out and bought mark softer, but I’ve read that can damage paint… and top coat would ruin the reflective finish, I think? I’ve searched so…[Read more]
The general body could be ok with the water slides but protecting them is the issue…
But with the mg phenex, I got a feeling they’ll be rub on decals much like my mg hyaku shiki, and they’ll sell the water slides separately, of course I haven’t seen the proper decal sheet and this is based on speculation :c
For anyone who is scrolling down for the answer, finally got around to it, there is some effect but it depends on how much paint is used, I used tamiya clear coat and flat coat from spray cans, when I went full on NUTS and over coated a part with the clear I noticed the paint took off some of the finish and retained it when it dried (the thing was…[Read more]
Hi all, I’m new to top coating models but have been using TS-80 Tamiya color (flat clear). Everything was going great till I did the wings of my proto zero. After it dried I noticed a few blue smudges (I have no idea how they got there as conditions were pretty good) I was wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of them? I was thinking about…[Read more]
Can you describe the blue smudges? Where were they? On the white parts? There have been no reports of blue smudges that I have heard of. A picture would be much appreciated. Sanding that part would be fine, however it will take a lot of topcoat to cover up that small mistake.
Hey thanks for getting back to me, unfortunately i cant put up any pics because my phone decided to die since then I’ve just sanded it a bit and repainted it with the same topcoat.its not expensive so yeah problem solved but thanks for replying i appreciate the advice :). yeah its a small mistake it just really annoyed me because the proto zero is…[Read more]
After much googling I’m still bit confused about what paints are “safe” to use on ABS parts like the RG and (some) MG frames, so wondered what your experiences and preferred solutions are?
I’m using thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 through an airbrush for priming (Mr Hobby Aqueous, Tamiya and Alclad main coats), but tests on some ABS sprue do seem to…[Read more]
I’ve airbrushed Mr. Surfacer 1000 on to ABS with no apparent problems. However, the damage that the lacquer thinner has on the ABS plastic will take a month to a full year to show itself. Tamiya acrylics should be safe if they’re thinned with their acrylic thinner, and any water-based paint will pose no threat to the durability of it either.
I find the vallejo model air paints are great. they seem to work well with other topcoats as well. they are acrylics so no problems with damage to the plastic.
Thanks for the tips! I’ve picked up some Vallejo Surface Primer and so far so good – very mild and silky smooth finish, but does need a few days to fully cure. I’ll also give the Mr Surfacer another go, as I didn’t know the degradation from lacquers would take that length of time to appear.
also is it safe to use on ABS as well?
You want Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface finish. It is entirely safe to use over ABS.
thanks man
Beware, though, the stuff may yellow. This was a huge problem for “Those Gundam Guys” when they used Future on the 7 foot tall Unicorn. I may stop using it based on their experience…
Back then, Future is clear, now is yellowish. And I heard from some builder that the formula is different from the past. so test some used part before on your real deal. 🙂
I just got the floor polish and I tested it out on my Transformers toys and it worked very well. No yellowing. 😀