This model (1/100 MG Gundam Mk-II Ver. 2.0) was completely hand painted by myself and took me around 1 month to finish. Usually it would take me more then this but I tried to complete it asap for HobbyLink Japan. Overall im happy with the kit and I do believe my lack of experience in modelling hindered the final result. ( I was a bit nervous and anxious about doing a model kit for HLJ!)
Most of the tools featured in this tutorial are available from HobbyLink Japan, follow the links below to find what you need.
– Pin Vices
– Drill Sets
– Hobby Knives
– Mini Routers
– Cutting Mats
– Soldering Irons
Now lets get started with the tutorial!
If you would like to see the video tutorials they are located at the bottom of the post.
Step 1: Planning
The first thing I would do when creating battle damage is to create a plan I can work from. This plan will then act as the blueprint for my models damage. It is possible to create damage without a plan but in some cases this damage can look “random” and/or “rushed”. For planning I usually take a picture of the model and edit it using software on my computer.
It is important to take into considering the final pose and the actual mobile suit your working with in the planning stages. An example of this is the Inner Frame of the model. The MK II has a really detailed Inner Frame when I planned the damage for the kit I purposefully chose to expose areas that had nice detail. (The upper right chest & Lower right leg)
Step 2: Bullet Holes
Creating bullet holes is very simple and can be done a variety of different ways. These ways involve using a Pin Vice, Drill or Hobby Tool. When I create bullet holes I use the tool you see below. By pressing down into the armour you can create interesting and quite realistic bullet holes.
Once the hole is made and you are satisfied with the depth and overall look. It is then a good idea to create stress fractures along the armour. You can do this by cutting small lines with a hobby knife close to the hole.
Step 3: Energy Blasts
To create Explosive Hits/Energy Blasts I use a specific drill bit which is in the shape of a “crown” or “star”. You can see this in the first picture. As this isn’t the only method of doing this a more commonly used method is creating a hole and then applying “Epoxy Resin” or some kind of putty to create a more realistic look to the blast. As you can see from the first picture the blasts at present look a bit “sharp” and need to be softened. The way I do this is by using a Soldering Iron (second picture below) to slowly taper off the edges hoping to create a burnt metal effect.
Step 4: Deep Scarring and Damage to edges
When creating deep scars I know a lot of modellers who just use their Hobby Knife. I sometimes do this but when I can I use a small Circular Saw attached to a drill. Again approaching this slowly working from the plan you can create some nice scars and remove armour easily. Once the scars are placed in the model I then use a small Circular Grinding Stone to help smooth out the scars and also for roughing up the edges of the model.
When using the grinding stone to chip away the edges I use the very edge of the stone. The reason for this is to create a subtle yet effective worn edge. (This can be applied to a lot of edges on the model and when done correctly it can create a great worn effect)
Step 5: Drybrushing
Once the model is painted “clean” and all the markings are applied, the next step is to dry brush the model. I usually do a dark dry brush (black or a darker shade of the original colour) and then I apply a dry brush of a metallic colour (mostly silver) Without boring you guys or going into too much detail, dry brushing is essentially used to highlight raised details on models and to be honest I am still not very good at it! As you can see in the pictures the effect needs to be subtle and not over done.
The brush I use for my own dry brushing is quite small. I know a few modellers who’s skills surpass my own who use larger brushes, it all comes down to how you prefer to work I guess! The key to “good” dry brushing is to make sure there is very little paint (pigment) on the brush. To do this, first apply a small amount of paint to the brush. Proceed to rub the brush on a piece of paper until no more paint is coming off the brush. Then slowly begin to gently brush the model until you see the edges being highlighted.
Step 6: Applying Paint chips & Scratches
The easiest way to apply random and effective paint chips is to use a sponge. You can see in the picture below the type of sponge I use (its just a simple cleaning sponge) Applying paint to the corner of the sponge and then to the model is as simple as it gets! Choosing the right paint would be the tricky part. Firstly choose a paint with high pigment (or don’t thin your paint too much) As you only want to apply the chips once, you won’t be doing multiple layers of paint. Secondly decide how many layers of paint is going on to your model. I usually go 2 colours a Dark Brown colour and a Shiny Metallic Silver. Using more than one colour can give you some nice interesting effects and professional modellers sometimes use 3 or 4 layers of colour if not more!
After sponging the model and getting the look I want. I then take a fine brush and apply scratches or just tidy up the chips I’ve made. By painting silver inside the first colour (dark brown) you can get a nice layered look achieving a nice chipped paint effect.
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