Steven

well I wouldn’t say they didn’t do anything tricky, just on the chance that they actually did, but for the most part it seems a rather straightforward build. one thing though is they do seem to be taking some time to paint at least a few details, like the blue on the hands, don’t have the kit myself but two colors on the back of the hand piece is…[Read more]

the problem isn’t actually that you sprayed the semi-gloss it’s that you didn’t let it fully cure, it may have seemed dry but that’s not good enough and that’s why it clogged your panel liner.

now then the pencil lining can work aswell what you should do if you’re gonna spray a top coat over that is to do light quick sprays at a bit of a distance…[Read more]

I don’t really see a problem here if all you want is the finish, it’s a simple matte finish, however I suspect you’re after something more than just the finish. What I can see is that he used a silver on the inner frame, and seems to have colored the armor in sort of a real grade style, with two tones on the white, there’s probably some…[Read more]

how you did things seems to be fine and I would not matt over anything that’s meant to shine, matte will kill that.

For the silver peeling off, did you put down a primer first? also paint isn’t fully cured even if it seems completely dry, and can take a lot longer than an hour, infact depending on your climate a full day might not even be enough…[Read more]

can’t recommend a brand really, that’s sort of a preference thing and whether or not they have the color you want, and well sometimes it’s just about whatever you can get your hands on. As for colors well “Red Madder” if your kit has red on it especially if it’s a Gundam suit then it’s probably that. Other than that Bandai seems to like “navy…[Read more]

couldn’t really say about build quality they’re both pretty old kits, they’ll be closer in quality to the mk2 than the other 2 you have, and honestly I’d just go with whichever is your favorite.

That said I have done the wing zero custom but haven’t done the zeta yet and what I can tell you about the wing zero custom is, there is an LED, actually…[Read more]

ahh I see you want to change the color of a part in the sticker. Well the paint should stick no problem, don’t know whether or not that’s a good idea or not but like they say no guts no glory, give it a shot.

wait hold on what? You’re gonna put the stickers on the kit and paint over them and this is gonna save you time how? really I’m confused, is that what you meant? really I’m lost here if that’s what you meant. At first I thought you meant you were gonna hand paint the details that the stickers would have given you which would have been awesome if…[Read more]

I agree most likely bootleg. The description is about Gundam AGE btw. also you may note the white spot in the upper right corner of the pic, that was likely a logo they blanked out when they bootlegged it. so yeah chances of it being legit aren’t very high.

I know this isn’t what you wanted to hear but honestly I don’t think it’s really possible to tell from a pic only guess at what may be close, and in all likely hood the exact color is probably a mix of colors which makes it pretty much impossible to tell unless the person who did that kit tells you themselves what paints they mixed together.

by semi clear gloss I’m assuming you mean a clear coat with a semi gloss finish, and in that case it most definitely will effect the shine. You’ll end up with a semi gloss finish
I’d import or wait for the restock.

the thing with most colors is they’re not precise, for instance go to Wikipedia and search something like navy blue and you’ll see something like 5 different shades all called navy blue “madder red” is the same way so what Tamiya calls madder red may not be an exact match to what Mr.Color calls madder red, but then again it just turn out to be the…[Read more]

1. for best results clip and paint individually, but well inner frame you don’t really see too much of it except around the joints usually, not counting transforming kits. so actually you can for the most part get away with painting the parts assembled, but make sure you don’t somehow mess up the movements, just bend the joints to check ,also you…[Read more]

well I’ve never done this because if the part itself is green then you can’t really get rid of that, so the green will always be there, red is the complimentary color to green so if you put red over green you’ll theoretically block all light and lose the transparency altogether, though in practice you’ll probably still get a bit of light through…[Read more]

alright well first off yes you can make a gunplay look good hand brushing, gonna assume that’s what you meant, but it’s not easy. as for airbrushing since you have one it’s not all that hard to operate.

there are a few things you’re gonna need. First a compressor, I’ll assume you already have that, now you can get better results adding things…[Read more]

well if it can power GLaDOS it can power a company I suppose

if you want the actual colors from the manual I did a bit of digging and found the mixes they tell you to use:

red1
——
shine red 90%
white 5%
orange 5%
few drops grey

red 2
——–
shine red 95%
russet 5%
few drops white
few drops grey

red 3
——–
russet 65%
shine red 35%
few drops white
few drops grey

on another note finding out about…[Read more]

as far as I know clear white doesn’t exist. Tamiya pearl white I have used and it’s very translucent. In other words you’re gonna need multiple coats for it to look white, in my experience about 3 coats is pretty good, as for a titanium finish. Also it’s very sparkly, when it’s still wet if you get it into the sunlight it’s really something…[Read more]

1.no but it’s a good idea, but do keep in mind that paint, including the primer on joints will increase the friction and too much friction will make parts hard to move and can cause them to break. in other words mask the joints before spraying.

2. I’d say airbrush if you want to paint an entire piece. For details it can really depend. Raised…[Read more]