Steven

well the g22 is a dual action so if you just press down you get nothing but air, and if you pull all the way back then the paint just runs right out. I don’t have too much experience with Dual action brushes, but I’m thinking you just need to be more gentle pulling back on the trigger.

oh another thing you’ll see dual action and single action airbrushes. single action airbrushes have a simple trigger to release the air and paint and a double action lets you release the air and control the flow of paint separately giving you better control, but for beginning I’d say go with a single action first and upgrade to a double action…[Read more]

Well there’s a number of ways to go, the very simplest would be just an airbrush with cans of compressed air, as you may imagine that’s not all that much better than spray cans. the next level up would be to switch out the cans of compressed air with an actual compressor, this gives you a more even and constant flow of air. then the next step from…[Read more]

Wait is that actually confirmed? Cause as far as I’ve heard it’s still just rumors that there’ll even be a pg this year at all. So anyone know if there’s actually been any confirmation of this yet?

well I’m nota pro at waterslides but that doesn’t look smooth even in the photo so you probably should give it another coat at the very least, but really I’d think you’d probably want to do a bit of sanding too. as for whether or not it’ll give silvering, maybe you should use some of that mark softer stuff if you’re worried.

I’m not sure but I believe they make both, but if you don’t know which you have and want to take it off, lacour thinner should desolve an acrylic primer anyways.

the same paint thinner you’re using for your paint should work for your primer. also if the surface is smooth you could just sand it down. another note, there is something called tool cleaner, you run that through your airbrush to clean it up after use, don’t get those mixed up, tool cleaner is powerful stuff and will eat the plastic of your kit,…[Read more]

well zeta already has lots of blue on it but I guess you mean the whole thing in different shades of blue, anyways it sort of depends on what effect your going for, but well see my icon….hint hint. ok seriously though if you’re gonna do a blue scheme then megaman is as good a starting point as any.

to add to that just a bit, regular masking tape can leave behind a sticky residue, the proper stuff is better about that, though I won’t go as far as to say it’ll never happen I’ll say it’s less likely.

I recommend not posting the same thing on different threads, it just annoys people and make them not want to help usually.

as for the high gloss finish, “future floor polish” is the general big recommendation. but just as important as the product is the surface prep, if it’s not smooth it won’t shine.

green stuff… you do warhammer miniatures. Yes green stuff will get in there rather nicely but once again you’ll have to paint over that and so you’ll want those parts together still, as for the casting lines it’s fairly easy to clean up, and Bandai to begin with is pretty good about them to begin with, but all you do is scrape it with your…[Read more]

well it really depends on a couple of things. From your question I’m assuming what you really want to know is if you should paint the model assembled or in pieces, so I’ll focus mostly around there. Now then you mention hand painting and a color scheme, now if you’re gonna do some sort of intricate details like hand painting a logo or something…[Read more]

normally a panel line darkens the line to give the impression of a deeper recess course you can’t do that if things are already black. so normally you’d just ignore it, but with the entire kit being black that’s probably not so appealing of an option. However if you just want to bring attention to the line as a detail then as suggested white or…[Read more]

think we all have those worries, but ofcourse if you don’t try you can’t succeed. and for the most part paint can be taken back off if need be so you don’t need to worry too much.

anyways good luck, have fun, and don’t get discouraged if things don’t turn out the way you want them right away.

what I usually do is paint each layer let it dry (possibly not cure but atleast dry to the touch) do the next layer, and so on, till I want to do panel lines or add a second color, then I let it cure before moving on. as for the inner frame the layer isn’t that thick, there really isn’t a problem painting inner frames except right at the joints,…[Read more]

no problem and not just the distance make sure you don’t lay the paint on too thick all at once, just a light misting really, just make sure that it’s not thick enough to run mostly.

as for the tips well not sure why you’re having so much problems if that’s the case but what I’ve sometimes done is dip the tip into some paint thinner and rub it on…[Read more]

well the problem with not using primer is that primer is actually specially formulated to stick better, or in other words to prime the surface, hence the name, the topcoat you’re using as a base coat is not and so just like the silver paint it can be rubbed off sometimes.

As for the scopes if it already has a nice gloss to it which it probably…[Read more]