are u going to repaint it ? if no model grade enamil remover it will take some time . for the fin parts bigger parts really fin sand paper and sand it off.
Hey guys! I have a HG Sinanju I’m building at the moment and I’m thinking of painting it in metallic colors. I have the Tamiya Acrylic silver paint as a base, then going over it with Tamiya Acrylic transparent colors. That takes care of the red (and gold metallic for the trims and such, which is gonna SUUUUUUUCK to do), but I have a question about…[Read more]
I don’t think they do make it, I’ve looked at their paint list quite a bit. The closest I think to a clear black is smoke. Closest thing I could find in a few seconds of googling was http://www.testors.com/products/573560
Thanks! That seems to be an enamel, which may end up taking a bit longer to dry than I’m looking for. Thanks though. I didn’t think they made a transparent black unfortunately.
honestly trans black in acrylic is rare as…. it’s the nature of the medium, closest i;ve ever seen outside autoborn airbrush paints Is tamiya’s smoke, which has to be laid several layers to work.
Also, depending where you are, try Krylon premium chrome vs tam’s silver. MUCH nicer finish long as you mist it on
I actually found transparent black in the Tamiya sprays when I stopped by the hobby shop near my house a couple days ago. Ended up getting the gloss black so i’ll see how that looks in comparison to the chrome silver base (with clear red on top) on the rest of the body. I may end up getting semi-gloss, or thinning down the gloss black A LOT on top…[Read more]
Hiyo, have you tried just using tamiya X22 and tinting it with X1?
I guess you are going for a “titanium” look? A good alternative would be to use a gloss aluminum or silver leaf, tint it ’cause you want it much darker. Use dark mica blue on top, and finish with topcoat. It will be a really deep rich blue, almost black, but still have the shimmer…[Read more]
I’m having bother with my various pigment ink fine liners that I use for panel lines just stopping working when there’s still tonnes of ink left in them. They work fine on paper, or on the plastic, so it’s only when they’re marking on top of paint that there’s an issue. At first I thought it was when they go on top of Future Finish, but it seems…[Read more]
Have you tried thinning down acrylic paints and using the capalary action technique? I noticed it isn’t pretty hard to get some pens to write evenly, if at all, on top of dried acyrlic paint
Yes, I’ve done thinned black washes before, but I’ve avoided them recently because of the mess and because of the ease of using a pen. I may have to go back to that technique though, maybe combined with the Rapidograph when it comes back from repair.
I’ve noticed this too when I’m rushing things. I can only assume the same thing is happening to you so here goes. You’re likely trying to panel line too soon and the paint isn’t fully cured so what’s happening instead of the lining going down the paint is coming up.
Also you should note that gloss paints resist taking up additional pigment as…[Read more]
Hello good ppl of Q/A & Help Group I am woundering if anyone has ever painted there mg/rg frames like the 3.0 with moving parts? I’d like to know does a top coat over the paint prevent most scratches?
I’ve never painted an rg frame but I have done mg frames with topcoat and they don’t tend to get scratched by the frames movement but sometimes the fit is so tight that the paint will get scraped off by the movement in which case you’d want to sand down the surface first just a bit, paint isn’t very thick but it does have a thickness
Unfortunately, I have misplaced the screw and nut for this part of the build…
Most likely I trashed it by accident and didn’t noticed…
So can I just ask around HLJ.com for the parts? Thanks for all that replies.
Hmm…couldn’t you go to a hardware store and buy it? The types of screws and nuts that Bandai uses are fairly standard. If not, there are parts services online that you can go to. 🙂
Hi,
Does anybody know of an alternative to Mr. Hobby Metal Primer? I want to do some photo etched parts but I’m having a devil of a time getting supplies. I’ve a clear plastic spray used for protecting pcbs but I’m not sure how that’ll work.
Well fellow modelers, I have question for help on my kit, well for some advice. I need/want to add some more details to this part (see pic) as part of my build. Just wondering if there are some nice idea on that. This is my first scratch build part so I’m still new at this sort of stuff.
You know that would be some useful info i should of give. It’s going to be a stake of radio/computer/scanning equipment. I’m needing to add some button and other gadgets, but my mind has gone somewhat of a miss. Its for my entry to the Playing with Plamo.
Then using waterslides to add detail won’t do that much good here. If it would be a mecha kit you could easily add details just by applying waterslides like vines, tribals or mechanical detail decals. There’s a bunch to choose from.
But since it’ll be some sort of equipment like a radio, computer or something similar, best thing would be to add…[Read more]
I never though about adding screws!! Yeah there is plenty of time. I’m just that person that get very focused of any project. Just getting a little to close to it at the moment. It my sound obvious but sometime is good to hear some idea to get the mind working.. I’m having a time out at the moment… well waiting for some additional part to come…[Read more]
small holes and a small needle through will give you a button look. There are also photo etch rivets sold for detailing auto kits that will help give depth.