HDR is just exposure trick. You don’t actually tamprer the photo, so I think is it would be regular.
At least…. legal with today with newest cameras (they take different pictures and overlap, you just see the final result).
Until few years ago you had to take separate pictures at different exposure and overlay them with photoshop. That would…[Read more]
Hi everyone! I have a question about painting an inner frame of an MG. Ive painted one before using Vallejo Air paint, but I may have made a mistake of not top coating it. The problem is that the paint is chipping on the joints or every time I move it. Is it because I didnt top coat it or not enough time for the paint to set. Is there a safe way…[Read more]
I’ve not used the Vallejo air paint, so I’m not sure on how it behaves. I generally do paint inner frames though, usually Tamiya acrylics or Alclad and yes I top coat, usually with Future Finish.
Such a combination usually works well, but I’ve found that it won’t withstand heavy physical handling, especially if my hands are hot and sweating. That…[Read more]
It maybe the primer I’m using. I just bought one off the hardware store here. I just bought a Vallejo primer the other day, but I haven’t tried it yet. Trial and error I guess. heehe
I always used to use generic car body primer before I got my airbrush and never had bother with it, but then again, I wasn’t building Gundam mechs back then! I’ve not tried the Vallejo primer so I’ll be keen to hear how you get on with it.
It’s best to choose the primers that say they’re specifically for plastic. You can go to your local hobby store or arts and crafts store, then find the paints section. I used generic paints that list plastic, and they’ve worked just fine. 🙂
For topcoat, be wary of the ones that advertise “2x thickness” as they cake the plastic really easily.
you may also want to keep in mind that paint does actually have a thickness to it, if you’re movement is too stiff if could be the paint rubbing and then no amount of topcoat or drying time will fix that, what you’ll need to do for that is sand the surface to give the paint that little extra space it needs
I think I may have solve part of the problem, the primer I was using was meant for plastic but I guess it was just too thick to be used on hobby grade plastics. Thanks again for the help guys!
Hey guys, so I have a few questions about painting. I had heard that the mg musha mk 2 is undergated, and so I was wondering if it was possible to paint the parts on the runner without obvious marks in the paint scheme. I was also wondering if it was possible to paint over the chrome blades in clear paint or sharpie without ruining the chrome.…[Read more]
the point of the undergate is to hide the gatemarks by placing them on surfaces that will not be seen so touch-ups aren’t needed but the question is whether or not it’s all undergated and how well that was implemented. as for the clear paints over chrome, that can be done but be very careful not to touch it or let it run till it’s completely cured.
i re-read the description after i read ur comment and u’re right, only the chrome is undergated, i think the rest of the model isn’t :/ as for the chrome, i think im going to try sealing it with future like fox williamson suggested, the four day curing time sounds worth it XD thanks for the advice 🙂
thats why i didn’t bother mentioning it originally. did one once and yes most of the non chrome was not under-gated, so short of decanting your rattles to do touch ups after.
and i always future my chromes before i even touch em. protects the surface and lets me even try thinks like color tinting without risking the finish.
hey guys i have a question about the spray paint. Can i spray plastic that still on the runner? and when i cut it off what about the nub mark? when i use the sand paper it will rip off the color? so what can i do with it about spray a full runner and cut off without having a nub mark or rip the color? can any body know about some of these…[Read more]
Only just started painting like that, it’ll be mixed results…while you can spray while on the runner when you free the pieces you’ll have nub marks of what the plastic originally was and unless you got a paint brush or matching gundam marker it’ll be annoying to fix, plus if you don’t trim the nubs off the first time and then paint you may…[Read more]
Howdy, now I got a hg doven wolf, amazing machine…problem is like an idiot I tried to fix a jammed incom WHILE FULL WEAPONS OUT, resulting in a broken antenna (front one that sticks out forward).
What I need help is, options, I could order a replacement part (but where do I go, im trying one place but its not on their list and no response so I…[Read more]
okay as a user of these guys (I’m cheap, & i’m brutal on equipment) 4 is your best value but I would reccomend 3 for the beginner. 4 has to many options & can easily confuse most begginners.
both 3 &4 have pressure and moisture traps included which are a must imho. and to start your really only going to want a .3mm brush. it will be your staple.…[Read more]
I was thinking of putting up a question for a beginner airbrush, luckily found yours first 🙂 but I’m from belgium and I pay in euro’s. So what currency are those prices in? I’ve no idea what KT is xD Definitly interested in that 3the set though 🙂
1 to 3 is USD, while 4 is Canadian $. you said your from Belgium so, try to search here ebay.uk or ebay.be since your from Europe you might be able to get a free shipping .
Thanks 🙂
did already check ebay, couldn’t find the same set on ebay.be but did find it at ebay.uk but there it’s actually with shipping just a bit more expensive.
Sadly it will be. as that vendor selling that brand on El-cheapo brush is based in california. but they are based in california US, and to date have gone HLJ level of customer service. When i had a part break 1 week after purchase, theyrushed me said part without question
I’m gonna start custom painting for my own gunpla soon, so I wanna ask, how long should I wait for the primer to dry so i can start painting, and after that the top coat?
first off, time depends on what your using. So read your labels. Most products should state dry time, cure time & in case of non arasol paints it’s type.
Acrylics dry/cure the fastest, Laquers the slowest, while laquers are the hardiest (resistance to damage ie scratches) with acrylics the weakest.
your paint conditions will also affect…[Read more]
Hey guys, so I have a bit of a problem with my HG Sinanju. For some reason, the plastic is very brittle (not sure if this is just my problem or it’s a problem with the kit) and parts are literally snapping off randomly. I’ve had both pieces connecting the wings to the backpack snap on the same night, as well as the peg for the shield attachment,…[Read more]
I am not sure about the quality of the plastic that HG Sinanju have because I dont have one. Try using plastic cement I think that should work. When applied it somehow melts the plastic and re-bonding the two parts together. Unlike some super glue that just holds the parts together. Hope you get what I mean. 🙂
Sorry to hear about it :(.
My HGUC Sinanju is frequently posed and only the shield connector has broken because my cork-board that hangs above my desk fell on top of it.
Possibilities I can think of for why it is breaking:
Did you paint your Sinanju? Some paints apparently weaken the plastic, which could result in what you’re seeing.
The only…[Read more]
Well, my kit is painted in some parts, but nothing major, only the commader’s fin, the red knee parts and back of the ankle parts that slot into pegs, nothing that should affect the quality of the plastic. It is a legitimate kit, im actually pretty careful about that, but thanks for the advice, i know the counterfeits get pretty close…[Read more]
I believe what Nick was getting at is that some paints themselves can weaken the plastic. So are the parts that are brittle painted parts or unpainted parts? Even if it’s not much paint it can be an issue, in addition to that I’d ask if the parts that are breaking were at one point painted then had the paint removed, cause the thinners that you…[Read more]
The painted parts where nowhere near the pegs that were breaking and they were the only parts id painted, it’s actually why I’m so confused ^^; specifically, the peg holding an arm to the chest and both of the grey arms holding the wings to the backpack broke, and the painted parts were just the knee caps, immovable red parts slotted in with just…[Read more]
I’ve ordered the RG GP01 Zephyranthes and the Full-Burnern kits waiting for those to arrive. Also ordering a RG Zeta kit tonight as well while picking up some panel lining markers. I realised I’d like to have some touch up markers on hand while building these kits. So any advice where to find the correct or best match Gundam marker color numbers…[Read more]
long as you don’t doctor the photo’s afterwards, your good
HDR is just exposure trick. You don’t actually tamprer the photo, so I think is it would be regular.
At least…. legal with today with newest cameras (they take different pictures and overlap, you just see the final result).
Until few years ago you had to take separate pictures at different exposure and overlay them with photoshop. That would…[Read more]