Skull Leader

  • Gianpla posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Am wondering why other collector’s HG is not getting broken for many years why mine is getting broken less than a year? maybe because the hot weather here in the philippines, i don’t know

    • Depends, playing with the kits doesn’t help (hg kits use poly caps which get worn out easily when moved alot) so get a good pose and let it be…

      Heat is a factor, I got lucky when I went there but I have heard stories of the heat, if you get serious with your kits and paint/make dioramas/etc a friend of mine suggested getting a climate control…[Read more]

    • Play too much like what masterDS64 said. Use too much force on fitting A and B together, it will break. Using Tamiya enamel wash with Tamiya enamel thinner on panel lining,, it will crack on most Bandai kit too… lol.

      Just handle with care, and you model will last long. Is nothing about the hot weather. I live in Singapore, 12 months also…[Read more]

  • MrShinobi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Sorry for triple post, but I’m wondering where I should make the hold for pouring and air vents, from what I see, the best bet would be the right side, where it’s all smooth, but I would like to hear other opinions before I make my final decision.

  • MrShinobi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Sorry I meant so it won’t fall loose, dunno why I’m typoing so much lately

  • MrShinobi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Here’s what I’ve got for the part below that I am currently replicating, decided to do any way or molding it for 2 part, gonna drill in some small holes so it was fall loose when I case it but here’s what I’ve got so far, any pointers is appreciated!

    • Could you tell me what step you did so far on this? Is the blue stuff resin? silicon mold or clay for mold? thanks. 🙂

      • the blue stuff is the silicon rubber mold by Smooth-on OOMOO 25 or 35 (I chose 25 cause it’s faster)

        • So you can cut 2 tall drain on each side. Purpose is one ‘in’ and the other ‘out’, so air can get out when you pour your resin in. Just another tip, in case you don’t have resin, you can use polyester putty mix with thinner into liquid form and pour in. 🙂

  • Chyll2 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    anyone here tried using spray cans (tamiya or gunze sangyo) for the RG frames?

    • Try Gunze aka Mr. Hobby spray can.

      Gunze spray can. It sprayed out in mist unlike Tamiya in spread. For much more easy control, Gunze is much better, on the other hand, Tamiya got more brighter color choice than Gunze. And if you only build Gundam, then is fine using only Gunze… because all instruction booklet of Gundam use Gunze color. Cheers. 🙂

  • Blue Comet posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    What is a good alternative to Mr. mark softer and MicroSol? I don’t want to use vinegar. I’ve heard that Windex works but I’m not sure it that’s true or not.

    • okie, this is just personal exp but, i’ve actually been having some decent luck using future.

      i wet the spot first with future, then position the seal (sticker or waterslide), then once in position i dab it down with a bit more, making sure to get along any edges, as the future auto levels, it seems to fill in the edges, pretty much making them vanish.

    • There are many way to make it work.

      I not sure about MicroSol, you might want to do some search on it.

      Mark Softer. It work best with mark setter. This is the way how I do it, and I not sure others.
      1. Wet the surface, lay your decal on the surface.
      2. careful clear the water on the surface and under the decal with a saber brush.
      3. then comb…[Read more]

  • MrShinobi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    I got this part that I want to replicate at least 2 times, and I have silicone rubber liquid that goes into a mold and I also have Epoxy putty. My question is i’m not too sure which one I should use and if I do, how should I split it. I’m thinking just evenly straight down the middle, or through the middle of the body. Any help is appreciated thanks!

    2013-11-21 16.30.13
    • given that part, a simple 2 part mold down the middle would give you, your best castings. far as mold making, google 2 part mold and I’m sure you’ll find something more eleoquant then i

      • Hi Fox thanks for the response, I have searched up on google and seen people do both, so I just can’t decide whether to do silicone rubber or epoxy putty instead.

        • now all i’m about to say is imho.

          if theres alot a fine details you want copied &/or you want to make alot of copies, use the rtv rubber. else use the putty.

          the putty is good for casting a few copies of the same shape, with major details. never could get it to pick up fine details.

          • Hi Fox, got it I’ll go with the rubber than. Just a quick question, when you said middle, you meant like right through the middle so it would be like split evenly so the split line would be the one almost horizontal to the picture I provided?

            • well, obviously, use your own best judgment, but given that shape, you have 2 options. split it down lenthwise so the seam runs down the ‘top’ side (top being the face you show in the image), or

              2. you can try to mold it so the seam is along the side.

              option 2 will be tricker as you won’t have a flat mold. if you need more specifics just…[Read more]

  • 00Zr0 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Hey so I’m starting with gunpla and I was wondering what kinda tools are needed to make a gundam kit ?

    • Something to cut plastic. When I stated I used toenail clippers. LOL.

      Seriously, you need nothing else.

    • I started off with toenail clippers but then soon graduated to using side cutters which area a whole lot easier to use.
      You can just get a high grade, no grade or SD and see if you like building gunpla before buying some of the more expensive things (like hobby knives and sand paper). Honestly though, I’ve been building gunpla for about 1.5-2…[Read more]

      • I’ve started with a hg 00 gundam seven swords/g. It took me four hours to finish but it kinda fell apart since i was basically pulling the parts off instead of cutting them properly.

    • If you only build Gundam, then you only need 5 tools.
      1. Plastic side cutter, 2. Pen knife (hooby knife), 3. Tweezer, 4. Cement glue, 5. sand paper or sanding stick.
      Most Gundam only need these tools, there are only few MG need a extra tools – screw driver. These MG are the same era of 08 MS team kit like Gouf Custom, EZ8, RX-79[G], etc.
      If you…[Read more]

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Howdy, I got 2 questions for 2 different projects.

    1.Im building a nu gundam ver ka but I know the fin funnels/bazooka are a tad loose, can I use a top coat over to increase the thickness or would I be better off painting? (I can use gun grey I got hanging around for the fin funnels but the bazooka I lack white…)

    2.Thinking of getting a build…[Read more]

    • question 2. There won’t be a prefect fit on it, maybe a little modify over it… 🙂 and I don’t get what do you mean on question 1. Is the funnels/bazooka connector too loose or the plastic itself? thanks. 🙂

      • Thanks for answering too, now I won’t buy until I learn more modding skill for which I currently have none XD

        Well, a known issue for the nu gundam ver ka is the fin funnels have a loose connection to each other thanks to the connecting teeth design, painters have no issues because they paint all parts, im wondering if a clear coat would work as…[Read more]

  • MrShinobi posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Hello guys, totally new beginner here, but I’m about to do something really challenging. I plan to combine parts from 5 different gundams, with pretty much Strike freedom as the main body. I plan to use molds like Smooth-on’s and their Resin cast to replicate these parts so I can still build the other 5 gundams I bought, however my question is the…[Read more]

    • you just made me do a bunch of searching to figure out you meant reflective gold. anyways there isn’t really a good way to paint reflective gold, you can get some very good results if you sand and polish things down then use something like Alcad chrome, or Mr.Color super metallic chrome silver, then use clear yellow over that, then use a gloss…[Read more]

      • Thank you very much for spending time to find it. I’ve googled around too but couldn’t really find anything on it, but thanks! reflective is perfectly fine, I just need it to look golden-ish is all.

        • ok if you can get the reflectivity you want then you can just spray clear yellow over it, that will get you a pretty good color

          • sorry typo I meant I don’t need it to be reflective xD, as long as it looks glossy gold and not puke gold xD

            • ahh I see well most gold paints don’t look like what you expect gold to look like, I’m guessing you already know that by the puke gold comment, try the clear yellow over silver technique I mentioned earlier see if you like that color, and as long as the surface was sanded down before hand and you apply a good gloss coat over it I think you’ll be…[Read more]

    • Gaianotes Starbright silver, follow by clear yellow or clear orange (you can mix both to create better effect too).
      Alcad II chrome, follow by alcad clear color.
      Mr. Hobby metal color stainless silver, follow by clear yellow.

      And do remember to clear coat it. 😛
      cheers. 🙂

  • Amuro posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    these my kit stupid nubs any tips to get rid of them would help

    • Best thing you can do to fix gate marks is to not make them in the first place – I tend to be a bit careless about this, and the consequence is that I have to sand and perhaps putty the gate marks prior to painting. But you can avoid doing that repair work if you do the initial cutting more carefully: Careless cutting will actually tear out some…[Read more]

      • I’ll add something to what Tetsujin said. When cutting with a hobby knife cut in one way then in the other way. When you start cutting the blade will naturally go up leaving the other side of the nub untouched. Don’t try to force the blade to go down the nub because you’ll risk to force damage the plastic leaving a white mark or worse carving the…[Read more]

        • I forgot to add something:
          if you still have white marks and you’re not painting your kit you can use Gundam markers of the appropriate colors. They come individually or in sets, for example Seed or Zion sets. Shake it well then apply a little dip on your mark. Then I personally use a cotton stalk to get rid of the excess of paint and smooth the area.

      • so would 1000 grit sand paper be good enough for it I have a few places to touch up that are noticeable and I am not sure even thou it is my first model if I should clear coat it I know the principle of it but im not sure suggestions? oh and what should I use for panel lining

        • When sanding you want to start with something coarse enough to do the job efficiently, and then progress through other grits until you get to something fine enough to get the surface really smooth. It’s important to work your way through a number of intermediate grits from coarse to fine because each sandpaper will leave scratches on the part. To…[Read more]

          • Yeah I cant stand the scratches it makes me nervous so I can still see the scratches do I have t go over the entire part? cause the scratches are quite noticeable oh and any tips besides gundam markers for tiny white marks when I started I made a few

            • If you do it right the sanding process will result in a smooth surface. Sanding with 320 grit will leave significant scratches, and that’s why you follow up with 400 grit… which is strong enough to smooth out the 320 grit scratches but fine enough that the scratches it leaves will be smaller. Go 320, 400, 600 and you should have a nice-looking…[Read more]

              • yeah i thought about clear coating it but some how i can see me messing it up and painting on this model just dosnt make sense cause the colours are so good

                • Bahh… It’s always worth it to paint!
                  And if you have any interest at all at getting good at painting models… You’ll never get better at painting models by NOT painting models.

                  • yeah but this model was kinda a surprise present so i might try my hand on a cheap model like a car or something then move on to bigger things:)

                    • so i can put the decals on befoore i clear coat correct?

                      • You’re correct then your clear coat will protect the decals. I presume you’re using stickers and not water decals.
                        Just be aware that clear coats will pop out any sanding region and imperfection even if you don’t see it with bare eyes as matt coats would hide them. I recommend you make a test on a a piece of the runner that you sanded before like…[Read more]

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