Skull Leader

  • calvin_0 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    hi, can anyone provide some tutorial on how to paint the pilot figure that come with MG and PG gundam?

    thanks

    • Nick replied 10 years ago

      I can’t find any specific tutorials but what I do is cut the ends of a tooth pick to a very fine point, then paint with that. I’ll do a base coat of the main color then paint on top of that.

    • What I do is first using a pin wash. Let it flow in all the crevasses which then gives me clear lines to paint within. When it’s cured I use a magnifying glass and use a 5/0 brush for the little details.

    • What would you have in mind about painting those, tool wise? 000 brushes do the job just fine for me. Just take care of it and it’ll be a great tool for fine work.

  • xXJUGGERNAUTXx posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    So I’m thinking of painting my MG Zeta Gundam 2.0 frame and all and I was wondering what order to paint in as far as the type of paints I will be using. I have a can of Tamiya enamel paint for the frame as well as Tamiya primer. I was going to use acrylics for the rest. Thoughts? Thanks for your help!

    • Don’t use primer on the frame. Just make sure you wash the parts really good, and your good to go. Primer will create an additional layer that can potentially cause issues when putting the armor pieces on the kit(pieces wont fit properly, gaps between armor sections, etc).

      As for your acrylic and enamel order, it depends on how you’re doing it.…[Read more]

      • Do I clear the frame after I paint on the details with the acrylic? and if so what kind of clear since I will be using both enamel and acrylics on it?

        • You can. Clear coat thankfully doesn’t create as think a layer as primer does. It really depends on what you’re going to do. If you plan on using decals on the frame, if they’re water slides, then use the enamel. If you’re not going to decal the frame, then its just whatever you want to do.

    • well i painted my own zeta 2.0 and it was a pain in the ass. wht i did was basically paint parts that u would see thouroughlt and then paint up the parts u dont really see much in one piece the zeta gundam is avery annoying gundam to take apart so wht i would do is just dont take apart the model as much specifically the body and legs u can check…[Read more]

      • Why not paint it BEFORE putting it together? That way you wouldn’t have any troubles about taking it apart.

  • X posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    ok so… i have been researching ways to panel line your model after you paint it. i can not find it broken down in simple terms, i have googled and watched lots of videos, read some articles… maybe im just missing it. im scared to just try it… i have the gundam pour type panel line markers, which work amazingly! but i hear they eat the paint, also…[Read more]

    • Hello X,
      As to wipe off any excess of the Gundam Marker you could use rubbing alcohol, white spirit or benzine, provided you first had a topcoat on the painted pieces before you started panel lining your kit. I tried it out a second ago for you and it worked fine. Just use a damped cotton swap. If it’s drenched it can take more panel lining off…[Read more]

      • X replied 10 years ago

        @teetee580 hahaha i tested it out on a painted kit, i used a super fine gundam panel liner marker. grey. and the pour type also grey. it worked… for the most part, but when cleaning it up… i used 91% isopropyl alcohol, and after a few wipes it started to dull my paint. i think this might be because it was a matte clear coat? so i think im goi…[Read more]

        • @X,
          Before panel lining and decal always use a gloss coat. Gloss has no pigment in it which will result in a smooth surface, resulting in better flowing of the ink of the marker and no silvering of the decals because no water can get trapped underneath the decals.
          A matte coat has some pigment in it which “floats” on the surface of the coat thus…[Read more]

  • Kentrill posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    Heya guys ,I need some info – I have the Mr. Metal Aluminium ( the one that u have to buff ) ,once I`m happy with the shine ,can I add a matt top coat without losing the shine, or do I need to use a gloss one before the matt ?
    Thanks in advance 🙂

    • mattcoats flatten everything u need to gloss coat it without losing the shine even if u gloss coat then matt coat it ull loose the shine

    • you need to not use the matt at all, matt kills shine that’s pretty much the whole point of it, when you want something to shine you use a gloss coat, think you can even polish that too after and get even more shine, but what you definitely don’t want to do is put anything matt down ontop of your new shiny surface.

    • Thanks guys ,worked like a charm 😀

  • Gary posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    Hi i’m new here my question how thick are the pla plate and long?

  • drAInbAmAgE posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    So anyone have any experience with water slide decals on clear kits? Thinking about ordering em for my Zeta and Strike Freedom RGs but not sure how they will look on the clear plastic.

    • i wouldnt recomend it i dont think itll look good

      • so i did a little experiment and i think the water slides are going to work out great, my only concern is the fact i can’t seal the water slides on so the possibility of them flaking off is real. Hopefully my use of vinegar for the application of the water slide can aid in keeping them on the kit. There is very little hazing from clear parts of…[Read more]

  • SearingContour posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    When paying through PayPal with hlj is it possible to do so without a credit card…if so how and if not why.

    • yes, Paypal can be linked to a bank account so you don’t have to use a credit card.

  • kissarmy8193 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years ago

    Hi all
    I’m thinking about buying an air brush and compressor. Can anyone give me a list of items needed, or point me in the right direction. Thanks.

    • well for starters the air brush and compressor, ofcourse are the very basic. but on the airbrush you need to consider if you want single or dual action, I’d recommend starting with a single action and when you’re comfortable with that moving to a dual action.

      now then beyond that you’re gonna want an airbrush stand so you can put the airbrush…[Read more]

      • @Steven, good info. Yet there are still a few pointers.
        @kissarmy8193, if you are looking for an air compressor, it is wise to get one with an air pressure regulator. Some paints require a higher pressure then others. Spraying a paint which requires a low pressure sprayed with a high pressure can and almost will ruin your paint job.
        With a…[Read more]

        • good addition I was considering whether or not to get into the regulator thanks for covering that for me as well as the expanded info.

          There is one thing though a single action isn’t actually always bottom feed I started airbrushing with one that is a top feed, it’s a PS265 Procon Boy SAe Single Action Airbrush (Nozzle: 0.3mm), its from the guys…[Read more]

    • http://www.amazon.com/Master-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing-Airbrush/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1409748246&sr=8-6&keywords=airbrush
      this is the airbrush kit that i bought dont bother with the siphon feed and the 2mm airbrush just use the 3 mm airbrush its a good starter kit i used it for a while until i upgraded to an iwata

      • @Steven, thanks for the feedback. Didn’t know that. I’ll take a note of that. Thanks again.
        @thebanshee13, great idea for giving a link to a good deal on a complete package! Thanks

    • Hi All. Thank you all for your help. You’ve cleared up points and made it a bit easier to choose what brush and compressor to get. Thanks @thebanshee13 for the link to the aribrush set. I’v decided to buy it and give it a go. Again thanks

  • Arasan Crish posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 1 month ago

    I preordered the mg hi nu gundam ver ka but it got released but I didn’t get the payment email.

  • SearingContour posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 1 month ago

    Ello,Ello,ello, was wondering if anyone was able to fix the RG exia front skirt restricted articulation…if so do let me know I plan on buying it!

  • Ryu Shiro posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 1 month ago

    Hello everyone ^^
    I want to paint a kit mettalic red,and i dnt have airbrush…can i achieve good results with tamiya metallic red spray paint,or should i buy clear red instead and spray it over the allready red kit?

    • there are a few ways to paint metallic color.
      mainly in two ways: (let’s take red and let’s use spray)
      1) metallic red spray can (doh~, I know)
      2) spray a silver coat, let it dry up, then a clear red on top

      for both, remember to shake well.

      • Ty,i will try it in my Astrays,im thinking about buying the Sengoku Astray while waiting for the blue and red frame to restock,and might paint it metallic purple

        • sorry I haven’t been checking into hlj for a bit but to add to that you should put down a gloss black coat before the silver, most silver paints tell you this on the can, metallic paints have a bit of transparency to them and the black makes the silver just a bit more vibrant.

          Also I’d probably go for a mica/pearl over a metallic if you can find…[Read more]

    • ahh I see well can’t really do much about the selection you have, but since you asked about metallic red I assume you have that available atleast. if you can then get a blue, silver/white, gold/yellow, and black/grey then you’re pretty much set for most things kits with Gundam in the name.

      Also don’t feel that having metallic paints on the kit…[Read more]

  • Ryu Shiro posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 1 month ago

    Hello everyone ^^
    If i get the MG Astray Blue Frame do i also get the backpack adapters? … i want them alot,especially that striker pack adapter,i would even buy it separately if i could or know where lol

    • You can’t buy the adapters separately. You have to get one of MG Build Fighters kit to get them.

    • Adding to what @bluecomet said, here’s a list of them. As of this comment the only kits are the MG Sengoku Astray, MG Build Gundam MK-II, MG Build Strike Gundam and the MG Universe Booster.

    • Oh right, I completely forgot that those existed sorry :P. I think that was only available on release. That’s the only way I know of for 1/100 backpack adapters sorry but you could always use modify pegs yourself to kitbash backpacks if you don’t like the Build Fighter one.

  • Dankrypto posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 1 month ago

    Hi guys. I want to ask for a tips about hand brushing and some techniques of how to paint brush without brush marks on the kit and etc. I want to master hand brushing before going to spraycans and airbrushing.suggestions or links for a guide will do thanks!

    • For no brush marks: Really soft brushes. Instead of painting a big area at time, go small, line per line, little per little, but key point is soft. (would usually spray for no mark)
      You can always thin the paint a bit first.

      Dry brushing is a technique you should try if you didn’t already. You can find many tutorials online.

      You can also thin…[Read more]

  • Load More