Weekend progress:
Started scratchbuilding the knee joints, adding details to the thighs and hollowing the inside of the lower legs (so I can make the inner frame for that).
Read the descriptions of the photos for more.
(^o^)/
Nice model. Too bad it violates the entry requirements and cannot be eligible for the competition as it was built for another purpose and can be seen on the internet.
Hi. I will be putting together the MS-06V Zaku Tank which is quite old, so as I did with the GM Sniper Custom and Dwadge Reformation, I’ll be cutting it up and gluing it to a…
at the risk of boring many folks – here’s another element. A battle has just taken place. The Magella has been popped – it’ll be a burned hulk and the detachable flyer will be crushed under one of the guntanks tracks. Here’s using some foil to try to model armour delamination.
What roadway could be complete without signs? Here’s version of japanese road signs – printed on paper, glued to styrene – I’ve painted the styrene and post but don’t have a pic.
The corner behind the guntank will have a conspicuous pile of rubble that falls out in the street – here’s the start of it – the hard edge will be covered when finally placed.
So, I’ve continued on many fronts to keep things in parallel. First I’m getting the roadway done. I was going to use a fine grit sandpaper for the roadsurface – which looked…
I use different grays at base and go,over with satturating drybrush of different metalcolors like chrome, silver and gunmetal. If it comes to create different metal surfaces of an inner frame. For me it feels not natural if it is all shiny like polished chrome.
Next batch of tests. Since I screwed up the first casting I made, I used the test pieces as paint tests for the cans I have. The satin blue tint can i have seems to work well…
If you have an airbrush and can spray lacquer or fume heavy paints then mr.color steel and Alclad steel look nice. Just leave them bare though as even gloss clearcoat can dull their metallic sheen.
Otherwise tamiya gunmetal seems to be the go to spraycan for inner frames for a lot of gunpla modelers.
See that is the challenge here. Where I live here in aruba, we don’t have a hobby shop and there are none of these paints! You even have to import the airbrush yourself. Even if you’re able to import the air brush, you still need find the paints which you can’t import since they are prohibited flammable material.
Have you considered just painting the frame a flat dark grey or black with only specific parts silver or metallic grey (like the inside of certain joints, hydraulics, etc)? That can look great when done right too and the light/dark contrast really makes certain parts “pop”.
Yeah I really want that clear dark and light contrast with frame being gun metal and the armors being flat white and blue. But the frame needs to be metallic since I’m adding a lot of photo-etched parts with varying metals such as copper and silver.
Update time. I tried my hand on resin casting clear parts. It turns out making a mold is not as easy as it seems. I made a few bubbles on the resin and miss aligned cast….
this is a very nice show of skill and patience. great job on these.
Thanks, Ronin! It was tough, but definitely worth it. ^o^