So today had me working on my gundam tryon 3 for a friend of mine and I have to say the kit has impressed me so far. Looking forward to painting this one once I finish my degree at university. View
I need someone to recommend me THE MOST SHINIEST clear coat/topcoat/varnish there is. Being a Formula 1 fan these guys need to be blingy shiny for me!
Thanks in advance guys!
I think a shiny clear coat is less about what product you use, and more about how well you polish it.
A “shiny” surface basically means you get really good specular reflections – that is from one viewing angle the surface will reflect light mostly from just one direction, like a mirror. That also means that minor imperfections in the surface of…[Read more]
I use Gunza Sangyo Paint…I love it….great colors.
However, as soon as I apply my Tamiya masking tape it will ruin the color. The sticky stuff from the tape will stick to the paint 🙁
Is there any way around this? I also can’t clean it up once it happens 🙁
Thx in advance
Have you left enough time for the paint to fully cure before masking? I believe enamel paints take a long time to cure, perhaps leave it overnight before applying the masking tape. Hope that helps
Yeah, I did wait kinda long…bout a week actually. Maybe the Mr Hobby Color Thinner could be the cause….but, even my tamiya acrylics (which I do not thin with Mr Hobby Thinner) have this effect now… 🙁 This is rly troublesome
Oh okay, yeah that is a bit troublesome. I’ve never had that problem before but could it possibly be due to the weather or the humidity in the area? Sorry im not much help
If its enamel paint it could take weeks for it to dry/cure depending on humidity, try to leave it in the sun? Ive also tried giving top coats over enamel paint and usually the top coat drys a lot quicker
Enamel paint don’t take weeks to dry. I know that simply because I’m forced to work with enamel paints all the time as they’re what I have at hand whenever needed living where I do. Enamel paints, in most cases take up to a day to dry and be ready for whatever. If it takes more than that, the paint’s no good and you can either bin it or wait…[Read more]
try a high gloss black enamel as the primer. then a high gloss silver laquer like tamiya silver leaf (what i use) or i hear really good things about alclad silvers. then do multiple coats of clear red al la tamiya clear red, or whatever color you are wanting. i finished off with peal clear coat. it gave my custom marasai a super shine.
So I decided to step up my game and finally wandered into the realm of airbrushing. I went on a cheap budget and bought an Paasche DA300 air compressor (comes with regulator) and a Badger OMNI 6000 airbrush and took advantage of the 50% off prices that my nearest hobby shop was doing and bought quite a bit of acrylic paint (Tamiya). I just want to…[Read more]
I like acrylics – they go on quite nicely, there’s lots of colour choice and they’re quite affordable and almost everywhere. That said, I don’t find them as durable.
I like the Alclad lacquer metallics, but they’re smelly and need strong clean-up chemicals. I’ve not yet put enamels through my airbrush.
The Tamiya acrylics work fine with a bit of…[Read more]
Thanks for replying! By chance would you recommend using acrylics for reverse panel washing? Most comments I read on YouTube say enamel is best suited for that kind of technique but I want to try to keep acrylics as my main use/choice of paint.
Sorry for the late reply, but many thanks for providing me with that link! I actually summed up the courage and used my airbrush and I ended up with semi-disastrous results. The airbrush and compressor performed wonderfully but I believe the paint thinning procedure ended up being the downfall of the ‘test’. I tried doing the 50/50 ratio but while…[Read more]
Which paint and thinners did you use? Some paints will indeed react as you described and just not adhere to the plastic as they don’t dry fast enough. For them ensure it’s an alcohol based thinner (for acrylic) and keep the air pressure low so you’re just tickling the paint on.
Tamiya is usually pretty good at sticking to the plastic, but you’ve got to be careful not to “blast” it onto the plastic as the force of the air could be enough to blow off what you’ve just put on. Also, try working with distance of brush to model. When you’re up close only allow out a small bit of paint (only pull back slightly) and when you’re…[Read more]
There was a big difference though when I applied the paint unto non-primered/primered parts. I noticed the non-primered parts gave off a very glossy whereas the primered parts gave me more of an matte finish (the finish I was originally going for). So for future references, I’ll just prime the parts from now on to avoid future…[Read more]
I’ve painted over 60 kits, 59 of them very well done, the rest were me training into a pro I became. j/k Anyway, from What I can can say is that I’ve never primed a kit. It’s a cost I don’t want to make and it doesn’t do that much. It’s one more thing you have to do while painting and after you’ve done as many kits as I did you’ll want to cut…[Read more]
Sorry for the very late reply but thank you so much for your help/comment! I do agree that the Tamiya acrylic paint that I’m using can scrape off pretty easily when you’re not careful but I still want to keep them as my main choice of paints to use. As for the wash and reverse wash, I’ll give enamels a shot but I just dislike how long they take to…[Read more]
I”m sure it’s been posted in here somewhere but I didn’t see it when I scrolled a decent way. I just have a few questions for someone looking into airbrushing.
1) Any recommendation on a fairly quiet air compressor? I’m in an apartment so noise is an issue.
2) Are all ventilation systems the same? Basically, is the fact that it’s more expensive…[Read more]
Most of the brands have rubber feet to dampen vibration. on volume of use, I’m not sure if they vary very much, but if you are worried about the sound traveling, then maybe a smart compressor, or even a smart compressor connected to a tank might be worth looking into, since the smart compressor will only activate when it needs to supply air I…[Read more]
Me again. Mostly every compressor intended for model kit painting is pretty much silent as it may be. The big ones aren’t as much. HLJ holds some of them so you might snoop into some idea. With that being said, the “branded” compressors tend to cost a LOT and I’d much more willingly spend more money on a good air brush than on a brand name…[Read more]
I think a shiny clear coat is less about what product you use, and more about how well you polish it.
A “shiny” surface basically means you get really good specular reflections – that is from one viewing angle the surface will reflect light mostly from just one direction, like a mirror. That also means that minor imperfections in the surface of…[Read more]