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BlaXun posted an update in the group
Airbrush and Gunpla! 9 years, 4 months ago Help me please!
I use Gunza Sangyo Paint…I love it….great colors.
However, as soon as I apply my Tamiya masking tape it will ruin the color. The sticky stuff from the tape will stick to the paint 🙁Is there any way around this? I also can’t clean it up once it happens 🙁
Thx in advance
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Airbrush and Gunpla!
Have you left enough time for the paint to fully cure before masking? I believe enamel paints take a long time to cure, perhaps leave it overnight before applying the masking tape. Hope that helps
Yeah, I did wait kinda long…bout a week actually. Maybe the Mr Hobby Color Thinner could be the cause….but, even my tamiya acrylics (which I do not thin with Mr Hobby Thinner) have this effect now… 🙁 This is rly troublesome
Oh okay, yeah that is a bit troublesome. I’ve never had that problem before but could it possibly be due to the weather or the humidity in the area? Sorry im not much help
If its enamel paint it could take weeks for it to dry/cure depending on humidity, try to leave it in the sun? Ive also tried giving top coats over enamel paint and usually the top coat drys a lot quicker
That sounds like an idea…I think I’ll give it a try 🙂
Thank you very much everybody!
Enamel paint don’t take weeks to dry. I know that simply because I’m forced to work with enamel paints all the time as they’re what I have at hand whenever needed living where I do. Enamel paints, in most cases take up to a day to dry and be ready for whatever. If it takes more than that, the paint’s no good and you can either bin it or wait longer which I don’t recommend because of dust that’ll make a mess out of it. Been there, done that. Another thing, Mr Hobby paints are usually lacquer OR acrylic. With the pealing effect, I’d say you’re using acrylic paints as they’re the weakest of them all with lacquer being the strongest. Don’t topcoat over bad paint that peals because it won’t help it in any way. It would still peal topcoated or not, it would just cost more $$$ because you used more material. 🙂 I’d recommend checking your paint type, your tape and your hands. As a matter of fact, if you’ve got sweaty hands problem it could give you a world of hurt paint wise as the paint won’t grab onto the plastic that good. Also, try washing your parts prior to painting. A lot of serious modellers do this as there may be residue on the parts used for easier manufacturing and separation from the moulds. So, this is the order you need to follow:
1. Washing the parts and your hands
2. If you have sweaty hand problems wear gloves while working
3. Check your paint
4. Check your tape
5. Be sure the paint is cured. Lacquer paints cure almost the moment you lay it on, acrylic takes a few minuted up to an hour while enamel paints take up to a day.
6. When cured, and only then, topcoat. BUT be sure to have the first coat just lightly, misty. You don’t want to soak the parts and eat away the paint. I’m pretty sure the usual top coat from Mr.Hobby is lacquer based too. If you can skip this step and use something other than a spray can top coat, it would be recommended. Future is one of the best and the cheapest way of protecting your kits in mid painting. I had my paint peal before but it happened when I used a no-name masking tape I had. I have this problem in 1 out of 100 cases since I started using http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87034/Sup, which is a fair deal I’d say. Of course pealing the tape should be done gently, like making love to a beautiful woman. 😀