Ha, yea there are a couple of Hi-Zacks. I’m planning on making a diorama with all of these, I also have a Zaku Sniper and RX-78-2 ordered to go with part of it. I generally avoid 1/144 but it was easier to make a large scale battle with 1/144 than with 1/100….and cheaper too haha
Ha, yea there are a couple of Hi-Zacks. I’m planning on making a diorama with all of these, I also have a Zaku Sniper and RX-78-2 ordered to go with part of it. I generally avoid 1/144 but it was easier to make a large scale battle with 1/144 than with 1/100….and cheaper too haha
You might want to add a little detail to the respirator pipe on the head of the Zaku, it looks a little too pristine/plasticy. Overall not bad. Be prepared, you’ll probably get bumped up to intermediate my friend.
Hello all, I’m just looking into getting into airbrushing and wanted your opinion on paints. What’s your preferred paint? Tamiya, Alclad, Model Master, Vallejo, etc. Why do you choose that particular paint? I’m just trying to get a feel for the pros and cons of the paints before I decide. I’m haivng to order online since my local hobby store…[Read more]
Excellent advice Fox. I like the Alclad metallic paints, but as you say, smelly cleanup but a beautiful finish. I also use the Createx acrylics and Tamiya acrylics. I’ve never tried enamels through the airbrush.
I’m relatively new to airbrush too… I began in june this year.
As a beginner I love the Vallejo Model Air colors. No hassle in thinning… just fill your airbrush cup and shoot!. The Model Air line has also metallic tones who look great on gunplas.
They’re acrylic so easy handling and spraying (just simple mask and/or spray booth).
Don’t know…[Read more]
You might want to clip the numbs at the end of the yellow V-Fin on the head. They’re supposed to go to a point, and not have the extra little square. For some reason Bandai includes them in most kits although they’re not supposed to be there.
I was planning on doing that once the kit is finished and once I get some sandpaper since apparently I have none. What kind would you recommend for fixing up the V-fins?
Pointy stuff are bad for you. As they have to make it this way because of smaller kids might get the idea of poking eachother in eyes and whatnot. They’re not supposed to be thete but in the end, other stuff isn’t exactly per specifications. For example, these robots should be 20 meters tall and made out of Gundanium alloy but they’re like 15…[Read more]
I’ve found that just cutting across it with a hobby knife works well, as long as you’re careful :P. It would be pretty tricky for Bandai to mold some of these V-fins without child proofing, they have enough trouble as it is with their RGs let alone their HGs.
And I’m sure they could create some Gundanium alloy for their model kits if they really…[Read more]
I’m torn. The no decal gives it the original anime feel to it, but with decals it looks more realistic. I hardly ever do all the decals as I feel it’s a little over done. At the end of the day it’s what makes you happy, after all, it is going on your shelf.
I personally love decals, so I will almost always say ‘put them on’ instead of ‘keep them off,’ haha. I have heard that those decals are sometimes too big for the surface of the model, and require trimming to get it right.
I posted this in beginner as that’s where my skills are but I just wanted any tips or pointers from you guys who have more experience. This was my first attempt at battle damage/weathering. I didn’t paint anything just used a dremel, hand drill, and a Tamiya weathering kit. I haven’t bothered flat coating it and haven’t moved towards a soldering iron yet.
Nice work. Maybe try more black/brown washes over the cut and around the bullet holes, to bring out the cracks a bit more. Then try using some silver or glossy black on any raised edges around any damage, that should help bring the detail out.
A nice idea overall. However it’s missing paint a lot… The thing with battle damage/weathering doesn’t have that touch to it if the look is too plasticky. As for the soldering iron, you don’t have to use it at all. Though it does give a nice “beam weapon” king of damage effect regular bullet holes look much more realistic. Simply because with a…[Read more]
I”m sure it’s been posted in here somewhere but I didn’t see it when I scrolled a decent way. I just have a few questions for someone looking into airbrushing.
1) Any recommendation on a fairly quiet air compressor? I’m in an apartment so noise is an issue.
2) Are all ventilation systems the same? Basically, is the fact that it’s more expensive…[Read more]
Most of the brands have rubber feet to dampen vibration. on volume of use, I’m not sure if they vary very much, but if you are worried about the sound traveling, then maybe a smart compressor, or even a smart compressor connected to a tank might be worth looking into, since the smart compressor will only activate when it needs to supply air I…[Read more]
Me again. Mostly every compressor intended for model kit painting is pretty much silent as it may be. The big ones aren’t as much. HLJ holds some of them so you might snoop into some idea. With that being said, the “branded” compressors tend to cost a LOT and I’d much more willingly spend more money on a good air brush than on a brand name…[Read more]
Haha yea, I think people had a different interpretation of the rules. They said in the video it’s basically out of the box, slap on a few decals and panel lines and that’s it. Glad to get some things cleared up.
Got bored today and just was not in the mood to finish panel lining my Liger Zero so I gave a go at battle damage/weathering. I used a shield from a 1/100 Destiny that I’ll be using mostly for parts for future projects. This is my first ever attempt at battle damage and weathering. I did this all with a dremel, hand drill, and a Tamiya weathering…[Read more]
Not bad at all. Looks really good.I have been waiting until i get a really cheap kit or one that gets messed up for before i start to play with that. For your first go that is sweet.
I already thought that you would build a dioarama because of all the Grunt Units.