srry but thats gunna be pretty hard u could try gentei kits but im pretty sure its sold out if not ebay is ur best place but be ready to spend alot on it since its gunna be pretty difficult to get considering it came out a while ago
Hey guys! So im new to painting(hand painting btw) and was wondering with those acrylic paints(e.g. tamiya) do i apply the paint directly or do i have to mix it with paint thinner or water???
You can apply it directly, or thinned. Make sure that you use the right thinner though, as enamel thinner will cause acrylic to glob up. Acrylic paints you should be more and fine without thinning it out.
Hello there.
Firstly, Tamiya and other Alcohol based “acrylics” need to be thinned with alcohol or Tamiya X-20A.
Acrylics like Vallejo can be thinned down with water, but I suggest using distilled water or the thinning agent made by Vallejo. Some people even use Windex or any other Ammonia based cleaning agent for it.
And second, it all depends on…[Read more]
About the retarder. You dont have to use the same brand retarder as the paint. You can use general retarder for acrylic paints and it would work good. Im using retarder from Talens with both Tamiya and Vallejo paints (from non Air lines). Vallejo Air paints already have retarder in them so there is no need to add more – also despite being…[Read more]
Ok so… I recently spent like WAY too much on gunpla lol any who I have several kits now and 3 of them are Ver Ka. I got the sazabi, the Nu and the Full Armor unicorn(all ver ka) then I have a shin musha, an Astray red frame, andthe PG Unicorn… which should I do first??? I just don’t know lol oh and i have an hg unicorn destroy mode and the bansh…[Read more]
your back log is starting to look like mine 🙂 i would recommend the FA Uni first. then the PG YOLOcorn, then the rest of the ver ka stuff. Sazabi is a monster and a shelf destroyer so make sure u got space, now that i think about it so is the FA Uni… and i think the Nu is as well but i havent finished mine yet. I don’t do HGs… so yeah my vote…[Read more]
Haha I just bought a shelf that hopefully will hold them all! I started out doin HG.. but prob not painting cause I don’t have skill haha. I will possibly paint the shin musha but waiting on an airbrush lol my pastors gonna let me borrow it!!
Do the HG’s first. Then Red Frame (should be easiest MG of the bunch), then Shin Musha and then the Katoki hell….. Start with FA Uni, then the NU (some parts are tricky) and then the Sazabi
Ok so… I recently spent like WAY too much on gunpla lol any who I have several kits now and 3 of them are Ver Ka. I got the sazabi, the Nu and the Full Armor unicorn(all ver ka) then I have a shin musha, an Astray red frame, andthe PG Unicorn… which should I do first??? I just don’t know lol oh and i have an hg unicorn destroy mode and the…[Read more]
I understand what you are saying . I also had a huge back log of kits and did not know which one to start but i would recommend you to do the Hg banshee norn
Do i need to make a new post to post more picture’s. My Outta the box build is done. But i have 6 runners of extra parts i didn’t even touch yet and i’m going to throw some of the nice yellows and reds in the BSG-FP, Trying to figure out how to get additional Pics on my already created post, so i don’t fill up the timeline and keep it more neat…[Read more]
yeah there really isn’t too much you can do if you want to keep the factory gloss finish. just do you’re best to only cut away the nubs without damaging the rest of the surface. I wouldn’t use an xacto knife, though use a modeling knife and.or a sanding stick. xacto knives are just too big.
Anyways a bunch of the nubs won’t be visible with the…[Read more]
Hey guys,
I’m new to the site so not sure of the etiquette haha. But I’ve been building kits for a few months but have a few questions.
1) how can you tell the difference between water slides and dry transfer decals that are provided in kits?
2) how can you paint transparent parts on a kit such as the MG Unicorn?
3) finally, how can you flat…[Read more]
Water slides are always on a paper backing. Dry transfers are always on a clear piece of plastic.
If you want to paint clear parts, use a clear paint, or a metallic color that isn’t the color of an actual metal(i.e. gold, silver, steel).
I suggest you spray the parts separately if you’re unsure of it. or use a high gloss coat. Of course a high…[Read more]
Adding to what @slater4u said, for most painting I’d take apart a model then coat it in sections. This will also help exposed joints not get sealed by top coat.
Also, I wouldn’t recommend trying to top-coat clear pieces as they can fog up really easily.
Thanks a lot guys, I will be sure to keep all of this in mind while working on my unicorn. I will definitely be using the tips on the clear parts because I want to keep the transparency. And now the thing I was most confused about with decals is now cleared up haha
I don’t have a link to anything as simple as just painting, but I’m sure Youtube has tons of those videos. Try looking up a guy on youtube called GhostofZeon. As for some more advanced stuff, I recommend trying this guy: http://codyscoop.com/models/how-to he does great work, and he makes it rather simple to pick up.
That’s a good way to start there, however i suggest against using an x-acto knife to remove the gate. Once you have your part separated from the tree, use your sidecutters with the flat side facing the part, and trim the gate off as close as you can. This gives you less of a chance of gouging the plastic with the knife, which is a common issue by…[Read more]
oh didn’t even notice he was using that in his tutorials, just found a site with a bunch of tutorials and posted to help out.
Anyways yeah don’t use that, use a modeling knife, with changeable blades. Though I must confess when I started I was using a nail clipper to cut sprues,, would not recommend that either btw lol.
Well almost done with my first kit but i have one question left. I know you can buy waterslides of stickers but can you also get dry transfer versions of stickers.? I love so far how the dry trans are coming out. Just need to wait for aligator clips then ill top coat.
I don’t think Bandai sells dry transfer decals, as they’re moving away from providing them in their kits due to the fact that they’re not very well liked. They look good, but they’re easy to mess up, WAY to easy.
I suggest that if you cannot spray coat the parts yet, to use a good flat brush, like brand new or the best you have, and brush some…[Read more]
‘sup. there’s a site (pulsarprofx.com) here in the states where you can make custom dry transfers with a laser printer. but having said that, Slater4u said it best-it’s way, way too easy to make a mistake. that’s the main reason (I think) most people use water slides, while they’re wet, you can move them around and place them perfectly.