im going to commend u on showing us a pic organizing all those parts. lol i usually just put same color parts in one box dump em on a table and start assembling it after painting. but good job on this
Thanks! I usually keep them in a box with containers, organized by body part or color section. But funny story, as I was putting all together for the photo, I realized a shoulder part was missing. I went to search for it and found it under my desk, if wasn’t for the photo I may have lost that piece forever!
Not really, the paint cured very well, its very hard. (there is Tamiya L primer underneath), when you move the joints the paint wont scratch or peel off. Of course there is a very little spot on each joint with no paint, but you cant see it because is in the bottom or underneath the frame armor.
prob not the right place to say this but whtever. anyone that lives in the us, Barnes and nobles are having a gundam sale so wing custom, double x and others are up on sale for 25 percent off
Finished my very first painted build. RG Char’s Z’Gok. Wanted to see how hard matching original colors was. Some paint left so i’m going use it on the MG Char’s Zaku II ver 2.0 next. Thanks to the guys here on this site who encouraged me to try painting!
That looks really really great!!!!!! Did you mix colors or did you find matching ones? Found myself that sometimes when mixing the colors via the manual, the can differ from what you see in the pictures, while other times they match perfectly. In the event you did use matching colors, what brand where they as they look very good! Looking forward…[Read more]
Awesome work, very clean. Do you think you’ll do a RG-style pain scheme on the MG Char’s Zaku II? The masking you do for those kinds of paint jobs is a great learning experience.
Teetee, i used liquitex basics acrylic paint. I got a set of 48 tubes. The pink and dark red for the legs, arms and skirt didnt need mixing but the salmon pink and the other shade of pink for the torso made me try a lot of combinations til i was able to match them. Pictures dont make it justice since i also tried some shading that it is hard to…[Read more]
Nick, working on it as i write this. I had made it look dirty when i first put together so now that im painting with original colors, im trying to shade it as well and add some other weathering hoping it’ll end up nice.
Hey, guys!
Just finished assembling my very first gunpla model.
Bandai RXF-F91 model from the mid 90’s that I have had in my closet for a VERY LONG time.
Panel lines and decos…
Well, beter late then never, hahaha.
Seriously, a big welcome to the hobby that is Gunpla and thank you very much for sharing and showing us your first model! I hope you enjoyed your first build and many many many more will follow. If you need any help and/or advise, please let us know. There is always someone here willing to lend a hand!
May I…[Read more]
Can be, with 00 MS have been completed, and we are gifted with upcoming Sinanju, there’s possibility to be another from operation meteor, or looking at tye silhouetes it’s highly from endless waltz ova
Ok, I think I’m in big trouble. Big being the word here. I ordered and got the Neo Zeong off A_Japan on Amazon (not hlj). Should have waited for a restock maybe but it always appears backordered and it takes months for stuff to arrive in Bangladesh… etc. etc.
So… Came with an old and worn out manual as if it was used a million times, plus a…[Read more]
Thx for the advice! I’ve repaired stuff using the hair dryer before, but it seems to only work on softer parts. Neo Zeong plastic is too hard methinks. 🙁
if its that bad i feel like returning it is a better option u spent so much money to get it torn up especially since neo zeong costs ten arms and legs to get
Almost USD100 in taxes every time it comes in, not to mention shipping. Like I said, not feasible. Nothing is broken or missing; no guarantee the next box will have everything. I am looking for ways to reduce/remove/recover stressed plastic, short of painting.
Well this might seem abundant, but next time place an order for the tings on backorder regardless. This is also stated on the FAQ on their site…..
With those big pieces they might only order the amount of kits that they got an order from by costumers. In any case, if you place an order for a kit that is in backorder, you won’t have to pay…[Read more]
I always wanted to paint the Neo Zeong. Been practicing and brushing up my painting skills as much as possible for the attempt too for months. However, a few days back I saw a contest post on youtube with a Gundam marker set as a prize; there was a disclaimer saying that Gundam markers may damage ABS plastic! That got…[Read more]
If the parts are primed, thinning agents won’t effect the plastic. Except for cellulose thinner. That stuff eats trough everything!
Gundam Markers contain Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol). The same as used for the solvent in Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya Acrylic paints.
PE and ABS won’t be effected when exposed to alcohol for a short amount of…[Read more]
Are primers/undercoats universal or do you need different types for different paints? I know I won’t get a lot of options here, so might just end up finding undercoats for furniture or something… Will that do? Q__Q
I bougt a Hi Nu from them long ago (Astyle J) and the box was in bad shape, also the manual had the first page torn.
Products from hlj are always pristine.
You can retouch some parts with gundam real markers. You can paint ABS (not everything is ABS, is labeled on the spru), use a light coat of tamiya primer (spry can) and any acrylic paint on…[Read more]
Tamiya primer spray is lacquer-based, you can apply enamels or acrylics over it (acrylics are easy to use and easy to clean). It dries super fast so it won’t damage the plastic. I have used Krylon primer (spray can) but the coat is thicker and the color is darker (also is plastic friendly). Use white primer for white and grey for other colors.…[Read more]
I’ll see what is available in the local stores then. Very limited selection, so I may end up only finding furniture primers/undercoats; will those do as well? 🙁
Those may not do. Furniture is mostly wood, leather, steel and/or fabric.
There are acrylic, enamel and lacquer based primers. From all those, acrylic is the most weak. Some of these might also bring some trouble in application.
Lacquer based is the strongest.
You can always put a weak paint on top of a stronger type of paint. There are exceptions…[Read more]
@teetee580 , thank you! Very informative, and yeah I’m on brushes. Unless there is some kind of manual action airbrushing kit, relying on airbrush is hard here as we have a lot of power outages for lengthy periods of time. 🙁
I am watching some tutorials and thanks for the recommendations! 😀
Myself (no trouble with power outages though) use an automotive compressor. It has a huge tank (in comparison with airbrush/hobby compressors), which once full lets me paint for 1 to 2 hours, depending on the pressure I’m working with. Maybe an idea, most have an air pressure regulator and even a water trap build in.
Anyway,…[Read more]
i have a question about hlj.com and their sales thing
last night i saw the hyaku shiki on sale and was like no way so i added it to my cart and then decided to pick it up today but then i checked on the site it said its backordered( think this is ridiculous because the sale literally started less than 24 hrs ago) but my cart still has the gundam…[Read more]
Your best bet would be contacting the service department of HLJ. Just drop them an email and you’ll be helped before you know it!
Regarding the backorder part, it all depends on Bandai, how long it takes them to make another batch. Sometimes HLJ might get some new stock from a distributor, but most of the time they have already spread their stock…[Read more]