A bit more of my in progress. finished up a good bit of black for the two color parts. Also some touch up on chrome, just have the last few black paintings. Then final assembly, and this time I won’t miss a joint like I have already done with one leg. So off to dreamland, and rested eyes to make my last push to the end. Good luck with the […] View
Hi I just started building custom gundams and I wanted to know what the best way to paint my gundams? I don’t have an airbrush yet but there are so many ways to paint gundams but I don’t know which way to do it?
There are a few options left for you. You could choose to hand brush the models, but this is a very time consuming way to do it. A big advantage is that you can mix your own colors just like you do with an airbrush. If you don’t mind brush strokes, you can brush the color right on. If you don’t want brush strokes, dilute the paint with the the…[Read more]
Use Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner when you are painting with a brush. It will prevent the paint from drying up too quickly thus having time to settle evenly and prevent brushmarks.
I saw a picture months ago where someone put the Build Booster MkII onto the Pale Rider. I decided to do the same, but painted and have the arms for the Arms Pack to be longer. Tell me what you guys think.
It’s not working for me either I can post comments but not pictures I’m trying to put pics of my hi nu ver ka I just finished but its not working I can’t add picture in any group
I need to get a better camera to do the full photo shoot of the Z Tank.
After all that painting the tank some parts became rather brittle (managed to break the left shoulder guard peg and the back pack mount.
Ok am starting my Nu ver ka. I will have no problem to put LEDs for the psychoframe but I am worried about the Funnels-How do I put LEDs in them and make it removeable/attacheable from/to the backpack?
Any ideas anyone?
I’m thinking really hard on this. As for now, I can only think of two solutions. And that depends on when you want them to light up.
The first option is when you want to get them light up on the backpack and still want them to be able to be taken off. You could make copper contacts in the “c” hook on the backpack to make contact with the funnels.…[Read more]
Thanks for the ideas! I was also thinking about “Pin Connectors” that look like earphone jacks but very tiny! This will be easy to mount on the stand for when the funnels are deployed but am not really keen on how to attach it on the backpack and make it light up. Infact I also got the BTF 12 funnels that also got psychoframe.
I will try your…[Read more]
No worries, I’ll keep an eye out on the site for any updates on the subject. Placing the six funnels that come with the stand and keeping the 12 BTF ones on the Nu can make it somewhat easier. Using those “Pin Connectors” for attaching the six normal funnels to the base is a great idea! I wish you lots of fun building the Nu. I’m sure you will, I…[Read more]
I built the BTF funnels and yeah am already having headaches on how to create “unpluggable” parallel circuits to feed each groups of LEDs in each funnel when connected to the Backpack,lolz! I think it’s not feasible without using 6 pairs of pins per funnel. I am really contemplating the idea of making the BTF funnel permanent on the backpack.
On…[Read more]
I take it you are planning to use six connectors per funnel so they can be placed on the backpack in whatever order you want… That’s a huge task. I’m just thinking up loud, but isn’t it feasible making the connectors to slide up and down? Making the connectors that stick out in a “T” shape. And letting it slide where the teeth are originally to…[Read more]
Wow the build was awesome. I only built the PG Astray and the Nu ver ka sure felt like PG with all the layers in the frame.
I have put LEDs in the torso and arms. Now working on the legs. The arms were frustrating-very limited space and it was impossible to disassemble the forearms without breaking the armor piece. And after all my efforts I…[Read more]
Ok. Zaku tanks needs just a flat coat to finish it (hopefully). Here is some sneak preview of one of the few decals on the kit (the kit uses 7….).
From left:
Just after applying decals (well few hours after that). The decals look unnatural.
Next is “destroying” the decal to blend better with the rest of the shield.
Last is picture after next…[Read more]
I tried to do what i was using on the 3rd party decals from Samuel which was using the wooden tooth picks sharp end to gently scrap the decals portions of.
Well with those Bandai decals it was a bit harder to do it but with a bit more energy i managed to scratch the parts i wanted to be off.
Also i did a massive screw up on one decal. Used yours…[Read more]
weird reaction. there must be sodium or another ion in the decalfix that formed an acetate salt. using more vinegar was the best thing to dissolve it. Thanks for the tip on the decal damage and keep up the top notch work
Well im done with the unicorn for a little bit. im trying to decide on what to do with the V fin and ive been doing a little experimenting with sharpie but i still havent…
very nice. the clear parts seam to have a glittery effect in them. is it really like that or it only seems that way on your photos? good job on managing nubs, cant find a single nubmark on anyone of your photos. 🙂
Thanks for the kind words. There really is glitter embedded in the clear (white) runners in this kit. The nub marks on those i cleaned up with tooth paste and a cotton swab. The inner frame and the blue (feet) are done in a gloss injection style plastic so those gate marks are impossible to remove. The placement of some of the decals will hide…[Read more]
Go with waterslides. Just checked your vinegar method on waterslides from samuel (crest for X1) it worked great (used about 40-50% diluted vinegar).
Just keep in mind that most of 3rd party waterslides arent precut so you need to trim them a bit before you apply them.