Does anyone have some advice for repairing a broken hip ball joint? It’s for the 1/100 Dynames, the ball joint broke off in the leg. The plan atm is to drill it out and put in a new plastic rod to support it.
that would be ok but time consuming. Try putting a very strong adhecive which is consist of mixing adhesive A & B. Make sure to apply in between the broken parts.Just make sure to align it properly and rest it for 3-4 days.
After application adn curing of the super strong adhevise you can sand down the excess parts of the adhesive and paint it…[Read more]
IF I can’t pry out the ball from the leg I will give that a go. Thanks for your help. I suppose that would be better than supergluing it and I can repair the broken binders at the same time. This really is a fragile kit.
I would use a type of cement like, my favorite is Tamiya thin cement. Here is what it says about using cements This is the main type of glue used to construct plastic (styrene) models. Polystyrene cement is actually a solvent that dissolves a thin layer of the plastic model and fuses it to the adjacent piece. You actually get a weld rather than a…[Read more]
I tried it. It’s not a clean break and once the leg is attached it put must stress on the glue and it breaks again.
Thanks for the help anyway mate. I’m going to give Johnnel’s suggestion a go tomorrow other wise i’m screwed.
your original plan is correct, though you’d probably want to use a metal rod not plastic for strength. What you want to do is get the ball out of the joint glue it back into place, sand it down to fit properly again, then drill down the center of that and place your rod into this, make sure it’s flush and after that you may need to sand…[Read more]
Thanks Steven. I’m going to buy some 2 part expoy tomorrow, it’s only a £1.
Step 1, get the ball out of the socket.
Step 2, connect it back to the hip.
Step 3, cry because step 2 didn’t work.
Step 4, see what I can do about a metal rod replacing the ball joint. I’ll loose articulation, but it will fix the model. It’s a 00 kit and they’re not…[Read more]
Id leave the ball in there and use a piece of wire to join the two pieces up again i.e. drill into the ball and into the broken peg, insert a piece of wire and then carefully glue. You should end up with a strong join and if you glue carefully, you wont lose articulation
Thanks you Tristan. Instead of wire I went with plastic cut off a spare runner, because I don’t have any wire. I’ve cemented the piece of plastic into a hole I made in the… Piece of plastic the ball joint snapped off, where you’d put the wire.
I just now have to wait for me to stop being so damn lazy and drill a hole in the ball joint, I tried…[Read more]
I generally go with the Tamiya acrylics for my airbrush. For more “bulk” colours, Createx makes a great range of airbrush paint including some nice “pearl” finishes. For metallics, the expensive Alclad paints work superbly well.
mostly what i do if its a glosses clear coats i buy a home paint version of clear coat in a can i pay for 3 bucks and i get like 3 or 4 cans worh of paint clear coat works just like the hobby ones.
I use artists fixative which you should be able to get from any art store. Its the stuff you use to spray on drawings and photos to protect them. I tend to use the matt version but have used a gloss version and it was quite shiny!
I’m in the uk and trying to find a good Gloss coat, acrylic basied paint. I have hear Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish is good, but cant find it anywhere. Any suggestions?
Hi Ryhs, I looked online and found a product out your way called Plasti-Kote Super Clear Acrylic, it is a UK based company and states it can be used on ABS plastic. Hope that’s a good start for you.
The floor product you’re looking for is more commonly known among modelers as “Future Floor Polish” – If you search for that online you may be able to find an up-to-date list of regional equivalents…
I’ve heard good things about that product but never tried using it before, I really like glossy looks too, to me it’s more realistic than flat coats, after all if you go out and look at your car it’s probably pretty glossy if you keep it in even half good condition.
As I said I haven’t tried that product but I’ve found that Mr. Super Clear UV…[Read more]
Go to B&Q and buy plastikote clear, it’s gloss but it’s enamel tho. Otherwise do you have a Modelzone near you? They always have what I need and their staff is very knowledgeable and helpful.
I posted this above to another question but it may be of help
I use artists fixative which you should be able to get from any art store. Its the stuff you use to spray on drawings and photos to protect them. I tend to use the matt version but have used a gloss version and it was quite shiny!
I am taking when you say messed up the paint job it means the whole thing. I guess it depends what the problem is. If there is bubbles and defects in the paint you could try sanding and reapplying. If you don’t like the color and stuff, I use a couple things sold here in the states Simple Green (though some primers can be resistant) or Super Clean…[Read more]
Any window washer should do the trick for you. I took the paint off of a whole Enterprise carrier 1/720 that I painted years before and wanted to do a repaint. I haven’t painted it yet but the paint went down pretty nicely. You may have to let it sit in it for a while though. Some of my older painted stuff had to sit in the window washer/glass…[Read more]
I’ve found at my local hobby store here in france Carson Model Sport’s “Paint Killer”.
Here’s what’s written on the label:
“Removes any polycarbonate and acrylic paints from bodies, diecast and plastic models without damaging the surface underneath”
I usually use it to clean my brushes but one day I totally missed a paint on my NG Strike Freedom…[Read more]
Johann, I second what Bode states since it is only a small part, you may want to consider sanding down the build up first though so you don’t have to use to much thinner.
has anyone tried painting a kit following the actually paint mixing ratios for particular colors from the manuals? I’ve found for the most part they’re a decent match to the color represented on the page but yellow seems to be a real problem it tends to be too orange. Any suggestions how I can get the yellow to mix better, or is it a…[Read more]
I’m using just the plain yellow (Mr.Color C4). I’ve actually tried about 3 times with 3 different kits and it’s always too orange. for instance the Deathscythe MG has this formula 45%yellow, 35% white, 20% orange. This particular yellow mix as you maybe able to tell from the percentages does actually have a fair bit of orange in it but if you…[Read more]
I’m in the middle of building the Gundam wing, there are a lot of small pieces, and I find it frustrating trying to put them together, my hands start sweating which makes it more difficult 🙁 any tips would be great, maybe to where gloves??
I’d recommend tweezers for handling smaller parts, and also you don’t have to build a model all at once, if you’re starting to get sweaty or frustrated then just walk away and do some more later.
As for gloves, well that’s up to you it’d stop sweat and your natural body oils from getting on the plastic but it’d also make gripping these small…[Read more]
Rubber gloves are the way to go. In my case anyway. The thin type. I call them condom gloves for obvious reasons. 🙂 It helps you get the sweat off of your work in progress, damaging the paint and minor scratches etc etc. Don’t forget to wash your hands after using those before touching your models because they’re powder-coated inside for easier…[Read more]
that would be ok but time consuming. Try putting a very strong adhecive which is consist of mixing adhesive A & B. Make sure to apply in between the broken parts.Just make sure to align it properly and rest it for 3-4 days.
After application adn curing of the super strong adhevise you can sand down the excess parts of the adhesive and paint it…[Read more]
IF I can’t pry out the ball from the leg I will give that a go. Thanks for your help. I suppose that would be better than supergluing it and I can repair the broken binders at the same time. This really is a fragile kit.
I would use a type of cement like, my favorite is Tamiya thin cement. Here is what it says about using cements This is the main type of glue used to construct plastic (styrene) models. Polystyrene cement is actually a solvent that dissolves a thin layer of the plastic model and fuses it to the adjacent piece. You actually get a weld rather than a…[Read more]
I tried it. It’s not a clean break and once the leg is attached it put must stress on the glue and it breaks again.
Thanks for the help anyway mate. I’m going to give Johnnel’s suggestion a go tomorrow other wise i’m screwed.
your original plan is correct, though you’d probably want to use a metal rod not plastic for strength. What you want to do is get the ball out of the joint glue it back into place, sand it down to fit properly again, then drill down the center of that and place your rod into this, make sure it’s flush and after that you may need to sand…[Read more]
Thanks Steven. I’m going to buy some 2 part expoy tomorrow, it’s only a £1.
Step 1, get the ball out of the socket.
Step 2, connect it back to the hip.
Step 3, cry because step 2 didn’t work.
Step 4, see what I can do about a metal rod replacing the ball joint. I’ll loose articulation, but it will fix the model. It’s a 00 kit and they’re not…[Read more]
Id leave the ball in there and use a piece of wire to join the two pieces up again i.e. drill into the ball and into the broken peg, insert a piece of wire and then carefully glue. You should end up with a strong join and if you glue carefully, you wont lose articulation
Thanks you Tristan. Instead of wire I went with plastic cut off a spare runner, because I don’t have any wire. I’ve cemented the piece of plastic into a hole I made in the… Piece of plastic the ball joint snapped off, where you’d put the wire.
I just now have to wait for me to stop being so damn lazy and drill a hole in the ball joint, I tried…[Read more]