Drastic77

Regarding the nub mark sitiutation… What I do depending on the colour of the piece is use a bit of gundam marker… For example I’m build the strike freedom atm and on the dark blue bits… I put a bit of black marker on it and rub… An it blends in to make it look darker! The same with the red I used red gundam marker and did the same……[Read more]

I’m also quite new and this is what I’ve found about tightening joints:
To tighten a loose joint you would use super glue on one of the pieces, wait for it to dry, then put it back where it belongs. By doing this you give the joint some extra friction so it will be stiff but still movable as apposed to just gluing the whole thing together where it…[Read more]

What acrylic are you using? And how are you applying it?
Usually a ratio around 3:1 or 4:1 is a good starting point, but what you want is paint that flows freely, but not so thin that it’s ineffective. “Consistency of milk” is a term that’s thrown around a lot.

If your doing brush work, mini painters would say you can not mix to thinly. It’s pretty much about the even spread of pigment over a surface, . It’s easier to paint more thin layers, and almost impossible to strip of thick layers of paint.
I would suggest getting an old model and doing paint tests to see what you feel comfortable with.
It’s…[Read more]

Pose them and leave them,simple.

Or just wear realy big gloves thst wont allow you to touch them.
🙂

I had the same issue, what I done is take a few of the best poses I can, take a pic of each with the best camera you got then leave them in THE best pose you can think of as the final one.

This way while the hg death scythe hell is falling to bits…but its MG counter part is intact 😉

Its pic 2 in ohio usa thankz wed

Can’t see it in this photo… But depending on what’s going on, my suggestion would be one of three things:
If you’ve still got a faint little recessed line, it could be that the putty shrank (putty does this) – just add more, let it dry thoroughly, and sand it again.
If the edges are uneven (creating like a “stair-step” between the two parts)…[Read more]

are u going to repaint it ? if no model grade enamil remover it will take some time . for the fin parts bigger parts really fin sand paper and sand it off.

you can just spray it with flat top coat if you think its too glossy. 🙂

a lacquer thinner would remove all paints including base coat then you could just start right over

I don’t think they do make it, I’ve looked at their paint list quite a bit. The closest I think to a clear black is smoke. Closest thing I could find in a few seconds of googling was http://www.testors.com/products/573560

Hiyo, have you tried just using tamiya X22 and tinting it with X1?

I guess you are going for a “titanium” look? A good alternative would be to use a gloss aluminum or silver leaf, tint it ’cause you want it much darker. Use dark mica blue on top, and finish with topcoat. It will be a really deep rich blue, almost black, but still have the shimmer…[Read more]

You can try the Reverse Wash Technique for the gold trims,. 🙂

Have you tried thinning down acrylic paints and using the capalary action technique? I noticed it isn’t pretty hard to get some pens to write evenly, if at all, on top of dried acyrlic paint

I’ve noticed this too when I’m rushing things. I can only assume the same thing is happening to you so here goes. You’re likely trying to panel line too soon and the paint isn’t fully cured so what’s happening instead of the lining going down the paint is coming up.

Also you should note that gloss paints resist taking up additional pigment as…[Read more]

I’ve never painted an rg frame but I have done mg frames with topcoat and they don’t tend to get scratched by the frames movement but sometimes the fit is so tight that the paint will get scraped off by the movement in which case you’d want to sand down the surface first just a bit, paint isn’t very thick but it does have a thickness