Am wondering why other collector’s HG is not getting broken for many years why mine is getting broken less than a year? maybe because the hot weather here in the philippines, i don’t know
Depends, playing with the kits doesn’t help (hg kits use poly caps which get worn out easily when moved alot) so get a good pose and let it be…
Heat is a factor, I got lucky when I went there but I have heard stories of the heat, if you get serious with your kits and paint/make dioramas/etc a friend of mine suggested getting a climate control…[Read more]
Play too much like what masterDS64 said. Use too much force on fitting A and B together, it will break. Using Tamiya enamel wash with Tamiya enamel thinner on panel lining,, it will crack on most Bandai kit too… lol.
Just handle with care, and you model will last long. Is nothing about the hot weather. I live in Singapore, 12 months also…[Read more]
Sorry for triple post, but I’m wondering where I should make the hold for pouring and air vents, from what I see, the best bet would be the right side, where it’s all smooth, but I would like to hear other opinions before I make my final decision.
Here’s what I’ve got for the part below that I am currently replicating, decided to do any way or molding it for 2 part, gonna drill in some small holes so it was fall loose when I case it but here’s what I’ve got so far, any pointers is appreciated!
So you can cut 2 tall drain on each side. Purpose is one ‘in’ and the other ‘out’, so air can get out when you pour your resin in. Just another tip, in case you don’t have resin, you can use polyester putty mix with thinner into liquid form and pour in. 🙂
Gunze spray can. It sprayed out in mist unlike Tamiya in spread. For much more easy control, Gunze is much better, on the other hand, Tamiya got more brighter color choice than Gunze. And if you only build Gundam, then is fine using only Gunze… because all instruction booklet of Gundam use Gunze color. Cheers. 🙂
What is a good alternative to Mr. mark softer and MicroSol? I don’t want to use vinegar. I’ve heard that Windex works but I’m not sure it that’s true or not.
okie, this is just personal exp but, i’ve actually been having some decent luck using future.
i wet the spot first with future, then position the seal (sticker or waterslide), then once in position i dab it down with a bit more, making sure to get along any edges, as the future auto levels, it seems to fill in the edges, pretty much making them vanish.
I not sure about MicroSol, you might want to do some search on it.
Mark Softer. It work best with mark setter. This is the way how I do it, and I not sure others.
1. Wet the surface, lay your decal on the surface.
2. careful clear the water on the surface and under the decal with a saber brush.
3. then comb…[Read more]
I got this part that I want to replicate at least 2 times, and I have silicone rubber liquid that goes into a mold and I also have Epoxy putty. My question is i’m not too sure which one I should use and if I do, how should I split it. I’m thinking just evenly straight down the middle, or through the middle of the body. Any help is appreciated thanks!
given that part, a simple 2 part mold down the middle would give you, your best castings. far as mold making, google 2 part mold and I’m sure you’ll find something more eleoquant then i
Hi Fox thanks for the response, I have searched up on google and seen people do both, so I just can’t decide whether to do silicone rubber or epoxy putty instead.
Hi Fox, got it I’ll go with the rubber than. Just a quick question, when you said middle, you meant like right through the middle so it would be like split evenly so the split line would be the one almost horizontal to the picture I provided?
well, obviously, use your own best judgment, but given that shape, you have 2 options. split it down lenthwise so the seam runs down the ‘top’ side (top being the face you show in the image), or
2. you can try to mold it so the seam is along the side.
option 2 will be tricker as you won’t have a flat mold. if you need more specifics just…[Read more]
I started off with toenail clippers but then soon graduated to using side cutters which area a whole lot easier to use.
You can just get a high grade, no grade or SD and see if you like building gunpla before buying some of the more expensive things (like hobby knives and sand paper). Honestly though, I’ve been building gunpla for about 1.5-2…[Read more]
I’ve started with a hg 00 gundam seven swords/g. It took me four hours to finish but it kinda fell apart since i was basically pulling the parts off instead of cutting them properly.
If you only build Gundam, then you only need 5 tools.
1. Plastic side cutter, 2. Pen knife (hooby knife), 3. Tweezer, 4. Cement glue, 5. sand paper or sanding stick.
Most Gundam only need these tools, there are only few MG need a extra tools – screw driver. These MG are the same era of 08 MS team kit like Gouf Custom, EZ8, RX-79[G], etc.
If you…[Read more]
Howdy, I got 2 questions for 2 different projects.
1.Im building a nu gundam ver ka but I know the fin funnels/bazooka are a tad loose, can I use a top coat over to increase the thickness or would I be better off painting? (I can use gun grey I got hanging around for the fin funnels but the bazooka I lack white…)
question 2. There won’t be a prefect fit on it, maybe a little modify over it… 🙂 and I don’t get what do you mean on question 1. Is the funnels/bazooka connector too loose or the plastic itself? thanks. 🙂
Thanks for answering too, now I won’t buy until I learn more modding skill for which I currently have none XD
Well, a known issue for the nu gundam ver ka is the fin funnels have a loose connection to each other thanks to the connecting teeth design, painters have no issues because they paint all parts, im wondering if a clear coat would work as…[Read more]
Hello guys, totally new beginner here, but I’m about to do something really challenging. I plan to combine parts from 5 different gundams, with pretty much Strike freedom as the main body. I plan to use molds like Smooth-on’s and their Resin cast to replicate these parts so I can still build the other 5 gundams I bought, however my question is the…[Read more]
you just made me do a bunch of searching to figure out you meant reflective gold. anyways there isn’t really a good way to paint reflective gold, you can get some very good results if you sand and polish things down then use something like Alcad chrome, or Mr.Color super metallic chrome silver, then use clear yellow over that, then use a gloss…[Read more]
Thank you very much for spending time to find it. I’ve googled around too but couldn’t really find anything on it, but thanks! reflective is perfectly fine, I just need it to look golden-ish is all.
ahh I see well most gold paints don’t look like what you expect gold to look like, I’m guessing you already know that by the puke gold comment, try the clear yellow over silver technique I mentioned earlier see if you like that color, and as long as the surface was sanded down before hand and you apply a good gloss coat over it I think you’ll be…[Read more]
Gaianotes Starbright silver, follow by clear yellow or clear orange (you can mix both to create better effect too).
Alcad II chrome, follow by alcad clear color.
Mr. Hobby metal color stainless silver, follow by clear yellow.
And do remember to clear coat it. 😛
cheers. 🙂
Depends, playing with the kits doesn’t help (hg kits use poly caps which get worn out easily when moved alot) so get a good pose and let it be…
Heat is a factor, I got lucky when I went there but I have heard stories of the heat, if you get serious with your kits and paint/make dioramas/etc a friend of mine suggested getting a climate control…[Read more]
thank you for your advice 🙂
Play too much like what masterDS64 said. Use too much force on fitting A and B together, it will break. Using Tamiya enamel wash with Tamiya enamel thinner on panel lining,, it will crack on most Bandai kit too… lol.
Just handle with care, and you model will last long. Is nothing about the hot weather. I live in Singapore, 12 months also…[Read more]
ok 😀